The technical adventures of Dr_C

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100% cotton thread is from now on a crucial part in my RST engine setup! Well, at least until new improved head gaskets arrive.

Correct thickness, quality and density of thread AND goo on all the right places is required to pass the pressure test. Not very good maintainability...

uploadfromtaptalk1439036471922.jpg
 
I feel your pain there Dr_C !

I have a big box full of gaskets of various construction MLS, fiber, solid copper, SCE technology .. they are all crap

eventually i took your advice and put a wire into the top of the liner and ran a 4mm wide copper ring on top of the wire for a fire ring.

the rest of the sealing tasks (water and oil) are done by a fibre gasket, the copper is 1.2mm sheet and the rest of the gasket compresses down to 0.8mm.

for this to work with the oem gasket fibre (1.2mm compressed) I think i would use 1.5mm thick copper

2563d1398977736t-jbs-700-kit-welded-80mm-crank-700-kit-007.jpg
 
I have just placed an order on 10 custom fibre gaskets from Cometic. My problem is that I cannot test just outside my door. I have to find a track event (takes many weeks sometimes) and pay good money for what might turn out to be a 4 lap practise...
 
Nice Dr C, are you using a wire ring with that gasket?

I think I made mine stick above the the deck a bit more
than was necessary so had to use an extra 10nm to pull
the head down.
 
No yet. I'll try it without a wire ring first. I also have fibre gaskets on their way from Cometic, so I don't want to cut a groove in the liner unless I have to. I used a steel wire on my old Yamaha, together with a copper gasket. I made the wire stick 0,08-0,10mm above the deck, and it was appr. 1,0mm diameter. I cut the ends to meet with an angle (not just a square cut), to help sealing.
 
I think I made mine about 0.2mm, leaked straight away,

Think I will anneal the gasket and try again.

Water and nikasil don`t mix to well, have to send the
cylinder for honing as the crosshatch disappeared almost
instantaneously.:(
 
spanner said:
I think I made mine about 0.2mm, leaked straight away,

Think I will anneal the gasket and try again.

Water and nikasil don`t mix to well, have to send the
cylinder for honing as the crosshatch disappeared almost
instantaneously.:(
Click to expand...
Honing a Nikasil cylinder will not make you and your machinist best friends... ;)

Annealing the copper gasket is necessary to do before every assembly. Sometimes it also needs retightening after first time the engine has been hot, and maybe even after the second time. Drag racers use external water heating and pump to simulate running conditions and make it possible to do the retightening routine in the workshop, not the pits.
 
racers use external water heating and pump to simulate running conditions and make it possible to do the retightening routine in the workshop, not the pits.
Click to expand...

I could connect it to a die heater at my work, great idea Dr C:cool:
 
Hi Dr C,

How do you seal the spacer to the engine cases?

I have a set of 450 cases now stuck in the US in my Shipito account which wont let me pay for shipping:rolleyes:

Anyway I am going to make a similar spacer to gain some height for the deck.
 
Head gasket vs Dr_C : 1 - 0

Leaked externally in the 1,3 bar pressure test with cold water.

The liner is 0,04-0,05mm high, which apparently is too much for a copper gasket. Disassemble again and do some machining...
 
How many Nm are you torquing the head bolts to?

I tried an extra 10Nm total 60Nm to get it close to sealing.
 

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