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the lineweaver cam LX2

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
well i've fitted dale's cam and timed it up this week. i was unlucky in that i had adjusted the original '53' cam i've been running until it was at the end of the slot i had filed in the camwheel. '53' or 'LX2' i would have needed to turn the gear at the bottom of the camchain a tooth around and then the camchain on the camwheel a whole tooth in the opposite direction. the renolds chain is made of marzipan as well IMHO! (D.I.D. here we come!).

now i could get the cam timing right!

the cam is beautifully made and marked ready for you to go. there are no signs of it being anything but OEM.

i went to besthorpe today, a MX track that oddly enough i haven't visited since the very first day i rode the husey three years ago and asked a lot of gawky questions about suspension! 1990 posts ago! however it has some 100m straights and i figured i'd see most of what i wanted out of it there.

the bike started first time in the shed-after i'd turned the fuel on and even with the bike at tickover the valvegear is just so quiet! i mean-you can't hear the tappets anymore!

i rode around like an old woman and came back in. otherwise very happy with the first ride. the exhaust note has actually mellowed slightly and lost it's sharp edge-it now sounds sweet and not at all like a three-legged camel.

power wise i have to say that i can't detect the difference. i think it was better at mid to 3/4 throttle but if it is i am detecting about 1 bhp here! the '53' cam is a beast and should be respected. it's what SR off-road have gone back to over here on their SM's.

but the valve gear! you can't hear it anymore. it sounds like other bikes in the paddock- you know-when they start you hear the engine and you hear the exhaust but you don't hear the bits do you!

with a berg you hear the lot! tappets, chain, whizzing and whirring away. so i really liked this. i knew that a good cam profile should mean that dale can find a softer spring and although slightly suprised that they aren't available he is looking into a softer spring which does the job JUST (and "just" is the name of the game) and saves power.

i suggest that it's worth the money and if you're a budget racer i'd still get either the '53' or the '55' cam otherwise fit this and sit back. budget racers know the rules; knife edge maintenance, don't forget-coz if you do....!!!!!

i like to smell danger and cheap is my middle name. however i'm glad i bought this cam coz i know the bike is going to run and run!

i haven't tried dale's jetting kit yet because i want to try and feel this cam at an enduro next weekend first! you need to ride at those same speeds around logs and rocks that you normally do in an enduro enviroment just to evaluate things.

BTW, i rode with about 10 MX machines and stuffed them all with an enduro bike. CRF450's abounded. i expect they were just regular lads that weighed 200lbs etc. but i beat them all on a 400.

regards

Taffy
 
Taf,

I'm curious to know what you have done to/with your *** to make it sensitive enough to feel 1 BHP??????

I know I should research, but...

What is the short and skivvy regarding the difference in the LX2 vs. 53? I ask for a laman's answer, disregarding lift and duration words...

I suppose Dale should answer this one, but you'll do just fine!!!

-Parsko
 
Okay, I did the research.

The LRX2 provides for a broad power delivery which is very user friendly.
The LRX1 favors high rpm with a reduction in power from that of OEM below 4500 rpm.

But, with that said, a few curious questions remain for Dale.

Are you regrinding OEM Husaberg cams?

How many custom (that you have offered to this community) have you designed? LRX2, LRX1, 53...

I probably know the answer, but I'll ask anyway for the sake of the community. Why? Why new ones? Why aren't OEM good enough?

Also, for the community. How many different Husaberg cam's exist, lest Lineaweaver specials?

Enough asked, I'll sit back and shut up know...
 
first of all i went over a certain jump in a certain gear at certain revs and i thought the bike did well so that's why i feel that there may be an advantage at mid/higher revs over the '53'.

the enduro race will tell me. on a certain corner in a certain gear......you get the picture i hope!

the '53' and the '55' cam are powerful beasts but they do smash the valve gear around and dale has always pounded this point home first and foremost.

nobody has an answer to why the factory made a cam with such a vicious profile for the poor ol' cam gear!

i have found out a little more lately and that is thaat the '08' cam is probably so close to dale's LX2 as to be a spitting image. the tornado G2 is also the same but these two have about 1mm more lift.

that sounds great but for a valve to operate at 10.75mm of lift it has to breath there! port restrictions, valve sizes can all be stopping the valve breathing above say 10mm so it's a waste of time!

the cams are welded and reground for dale to his specs. quality kit.

IMHO there is no such thing as a new cam to a cam master. over here we ahvea company called joy engineering and he will look at a cylinder head design and do you a cam grind that he thinks will work.

it always does!

BTW. phil once did a mk1 cam for the old XR500 that lifted the valves let's say 8mm. he then did a mk2 that opened the valves 9mm but with shorter duration.

but the bike was slower.....

when he got his flow machine it turned out that the design of the head meant it couldn't flow better at 9 than 8mm and in the meantime it was 'shorter duration' so....

there's a lot to this game!

regards

Taffy
 
the 53 cam was fitted to the 470/550/650 whilst the 55 cam was fitted to the 501.

both cams are the same bar 5d different compared to the bolt holes to which you fix the camwheel.

however any 'dime bar dave' (read; thick *****) fitting a cam should check the cam timing and set it properly. with all husaberg cams (tornado is 1 degree different inlet to exhaust so hardly worth counting!) they are symetrical. so to get them absolutely identical at TDC is all you have to do is get both lobes pointing up the same height and stick a steel ruler across the lobes (cam chain tensioner freed and working don't forget!). the ruler should ba parallel to the head surface.

however it would appear (without me having seen one yet) that the '08' cam which is presently only fitted to the 650 has the LX2 profile that i am presently running.

but if i had a 650 i'd want more top end because i'd know that sheer CC will grunt you outta the corner! you may even have too much power and therefore a LX1 cam would be fantastic because it is weaker under 4,500rpm for a bigger bang higher up the revs.

the answer is oddly enough in a thing called the stop watch! why? because it never lies!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
Dale has an older post where he specifically compares the "08" to his "X1" profile.

Having never ridden one, but just going off of reviews the 650's seem to be grunters. I just wonder if the intake and exhaust flow isn't the limiting factor for this motor, and that they would benefit from 37/32mm valves, some porting, an open exhaust, a flowed and bored carb (43mm Keihin), and maybe some slightly different cam timing.

After all the head and carb are the same as the 450/550, and the 35/30 valve combo is standard with current 450 MX motors.
 
Camshafts

In addition to increased duration both LRX1 and LRX2 camshafts provide for increased overlap. Said overlap when complimented with correct inlet and exhaust finite wave tuning provides for improved volumetric efficiency albeit over a limited range of three to four thousand rpm.

LC is a good indication of a camshafts overlap. All else remaining equal large LC figures indicate low overlap and visa versa.

LC = Lobe Center

However forgiving the LRX2 it remains a fact that increased duration and overlap favor a properly tuned low restriction intake and exhaust system.

The LRX1 will not tolerate anything other than a racing exhaust system below 4500 rpm @ WOT. "Spark arrestors in particular." Ask JOEUSA for riding impressions of just such a combination.

Large displacement engines favor the LRX1.

With an OEM intake and spark arrestor / quiet core exhaust the LRX2 provides for a more linear delivery of power to that of the OEM 53 or 08, however, peak numbers shall remain similar in particularly on the smaller displacement engines.

Why does Husaberg and / or KTM use such a profile as that of the "08", etc?
Short duration, limited overlap, high lift camshafts coupled with large valves provide for good power output even with a restrictve (ie quiet / spark arrestor) exhaust system.

In short:
Finite waves are no longer a problem.

Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale
 
Sorry to jump this thread, but which camshafts are fitted to an 04 FC450?
A friend of mine owns an 04 FE450 and it's definitely slower. I guess the carb could be a contributor, but are the camshafts different as well?
 
vegard

we don't have the old style part numbers anymore. we have new ones and if only i could find it i would tell you which thread that it's on.

this is it

here

Taffy
 
vegard

both models have the same camshaft so your differences will be;

gearing-a big difference?
jetting-the MX will have sharper jetting (w/o checking)
weight?
down pipes check 'em out?
tailpipe = bigger on the MX and louder makes you think it's quicker.

a lot of this you can check for yourself. all i did was visit the parts book at husaberg.se for the '04 bikes.

well worth having a look!

on the subject of camshafts again. we have seen a few references lately that no matter how 'green' you are about cam timing should start adding up.

first, the famous 'figure of 8' husaberg cam profile. if you think about it, overlap is the bit where the valves are open on the inlet and the exhaust and it ain't going to be by more than smidge is it? so to delay that overlap the factory leave the valves closed till very, very late and then it has to shoot them open.

this lack of overlap on the '53' cam is pointed out by dale above on this thread.

he mentions the harmonics of the inlet and the exhaust and again dale has supplied a photo of the longer inlet belmouth for the 41mm carb which helps here.

finally, although the LX2 cam is a superior cam, the overlap means that until we deal with these harmonics the bike won't improve powerwise a great deal. a bit but other work is required!

i have mentioned in the past that the inlet port dimensions suit a 650-they're massive for a little 400. also that all the inlet rubbers are suited to a 41mm carb more than a 39mm etc, etc.

also dale and i have mentioned that the exhaust ports are restrictive. they have to be for low end power, however there is a point where they are too small. 35 to 27 is 8mm and too big a difference and dale has said it as well. the KTM's run 35/30.

breaking down what needs doing next is going to be fun. it's not that they can't all be done, it's that they need to be done in the right order so as to save money!

dale has indicated the 'sock' is a big let down.

in the meantime i'm out with the new cam on sunday again and well see how we fair.

keep you posted!

regards

Taffy
 
i've just washed and put away the bike, gulped down ma tea and couldn't wait to get to the 'puter and add to last weeks initial impressions of dale's LX2 (grunty cam).

today i gave it a good thrashing with the chilterm hills enduro club and i really began to register the differences in this cam.

to describe it versus the '53' is as follows;
it pulls as hard off the bottom and at 2nd gear roll on and flicks it matches the '53'. from then on though through 3rd, 4th and even 5th gear it beats the '53' cam. it just simply has more. i wouldn't say that it pulls one gear higher than the '53' and does it well, i'd say it nearly does. that's an extra gear when the '53' has to be in 4th the LX2 can run 5th and run it close. in the same gear-5th-the LX2 wins comfortably.

i had to be in my enduro enviroment and not fighting the bike at a MX track. although i gave my first impressions a week ago, i'm glad i reserved (some) judgement!

i found myself at certain times in the meat of the power in 3rd and the bike was pulling the front wheel off the ground. to me that isn't a wheelie as i'm trying to ride and race it. my WR400 never did that even with the taff timed cams and the jetting sorted.

the other thing you notice as i said last week, is that the bike sounds mellower and unruffled. when really ringing it's neck across an open grass field you can't hear that valve clatter, the row that pleads-"have mercy upon me!"

i don't know where the red line is but i feel that i'm riding toward it now and that the bike can take it.

i would estimate an increase in torque and probably a 1-2 bhp increase from low revs to medium high.

i can't quite tell if the auto clutch is slipping and allowing the rear tyre to hook up or indeed whether the cam almost gives you a yard to hookit up and straighten out before blasting you onward!

i think it's a lot of money to a budget rider like me but i'm now very pleased i bought it.

anyone want a used '53' cam?

next project is the lineweaver jetting kit. no secrets given away though just the results.

this week i'll be lowering the rear subframe slightly, welding a tab for the seat base, a loop to the sidestand, (cutting the engine breather inlet off the frame) and welding that hole.

forks rebuilt after three years racing.

my big project though is not to be revealed yet!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy if I may ask. I know you went to a taller seat to make the standing/sitting distance shorter and felt it helped you become faster . Why I not sure I got it but I think it was due to less fatigue over the race. If I have that correct then why are you going to shorten the sub frame? Do you mean shorter in height or shorter in length? and why?
Curious minds want to know!
 
Taffy said:
i think it's a lot of money to a budget rider like me but i'm now very pleased i bought it.

regards

Taffy

Do you think that it would pay for itself in the long run, if it makes the engine more reliable and reduces mechanical wear and tear? As everyone knows, if something up there lets loose, that is a lot of money.
 
hi bob

i've had pictures taken and i'm still stuck in a kind of wedge on the bike. my intention is to lower the REAR END of the suframe by pivoting it down around the front of the top rails. i've noticed that my two bolt holes that hold the silencer are elongated and the bolts touch the front edge which pulls the exhaust apart. it may be the same for you? this will normalise this.

i intend going to an even taller seat in the middle and lowering it at the rear. this should nearly give me a straight line when looking at the side profile.

having the taller seat in the first place has been brilliant. yep! fatigue is gone! that little area between collapsing and standing strong has been removed. i think i read somewhere (in weight lifting monthly-my second favourite mag to f***a) that the load on your knees is up x4 by just dropping a few degrees.

you'll have a harder time getting your leg over bob but you always did complain about that didn't you! :lol: :lol:

brendan
i've just put up a post yesterday on TT stating that the only price i'd paid for a husey part that made me blanche was the valves! £90 is $200 for two inlet valves. now i've got through a pair after two years due to sustained high revs and thrashing.

with the LX2 it will stop the cam whipping back and forth and therefore the cam chain will have an easier time as well.

then you add the extra power over a broader spread. so yes it's clear to see that it will pay for itself in say 2 seasons. just not having to listen to that gada! gada! at the top of every gearchaange as well will be great!

have a look at fitting the updated stirrup and tensioner and i think you have a delicious package!

another advantage is this; if you check the service schedule it will tell you that the valve springs need renewing at 100/200 hours (more like 100 for me and 200 for you as i do nothing but race). the reason for this is that these really strong valve springs have to be at their best to follow the OEM profile. any wilting and you'd have valve float. this either means the valve meets the piston (ok forget that one on a husey as there is over 5mm of space-but think of another bike!) or the valve smashes back to the seat without being lowered there gently by the closing flank of the cam.

so normally we would say that the valve springs on a husey are;

incredibly strong
rip the guts out of the camchain
rob the bike of power
need renewing periodically

but if we allow theose springs to weaken slightly with age whilst putting the LX2 in we get;

more power (less resistance)
don't have to change them at all (save money)
camchain has an easier life

unless dale tells me we change them due to metal fatigue and NOT strength loss i will leave mine in and if they weaken slightly-i won't be sobbing!

regards

Taffy
 
When working out the flame out problem on my 96, was told the C cams overlap along with the ignition firing every crank rotation caused the low RPM spitbacks. Aware that overlap increases performance at the expense of driveability. Aware that overlap benefits from tuned exhaust. Aware overlap is not always emission friendly. With all this in mind, I see many performance pluses as well as longer valvetrain life, but wonder if the LX1 and LX2 cams increase the flameouts?
Dan
 
dsducati said:
When working out the flame out problem on my 96, was told the C cams overlap along with the ignition firing every crank rotation caused the low RPM spitbacks. Aware that overlap increases performance at the expense of driveability. Aware that overlap benefits from tuned exhaust. Aware overlap is not always emission friendly. With all this in mind, I see many performance pluses as well as longer valvetrain life, but wonder if the LX1 and LX2 cams increase the flameouts?
Dan

Hi Dan,

Regarding the LRX1 and LRX2 camshafts:
All else remaining equal (OEM lean settings) and during periods of prolonged low idle the answer is "yes". During normal engine operation no.

Regard driveability:
Quite the contrary as overall rdieability is enhanced with power delivery becoming more linear as opposed to that of abrupt and instantaneous.

Best Regards,
Dale

PS
The "C" grind is a mild profile and should not have been an issue.
 
i have been riding this past week without the exhaust springs. it doesn't make any more noise! so DS i don't think your problems were cam and overlap related.

you do know about the spark auto delaminator in the silencer fitted as OEM? you have to remove this and then the sparkofold bendibus polith the spag bendy fidya.

sorted!

taffy
 
Was prolonged desert riding through rocks the size of grapefruits up to watermelons in dry washes at walking speeds. Lots of low RPM running and clutch slipping. Usually would need to blip the front over a rock and instead of a vroom got a poof back through the air cleaner. Did I ever mention it gets a tad warm here in Yuma in July and restarting a flame out is about as pleasant as an Endo that leaves your nads on the handle bar clamps. 8O After all that kicking, never did check the laminated turbo thingamagig in the muffler, but did call Dale and he mentioned the overlap and ignition thing along with the lean carburation. I'll be sure and check the muffler next time though and I'm really surprised Dale didn't know about that wally bonger thing in there. :D
Dan
 
Taffy and dsducati, you guys are experienced mechanics, but have missed the obvious! It is all in the dingus, if the dingus is not adjusted properly it throws the husamobliajig way out of alignment. You should have known :-k
 
if i was running in that heat with a bike that stalled and misfired and popped and banged i would do the following;

make sure the bike has enough fuel without having too much.
go up a plug from say a 7 to an 8 or an 8 to a 9-makes the world of difference.
check for leaks in the 'zorst.
cam timing is easy to set and has previously been mentioned.

are you stealing my thread (advert) of dale's wonderful engineering?!?! :oops: :oops:

regards

Taffy
 

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