This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

the doc updates

well surely you have just answered your own question?

pins from the factory - not punched
pins on the replacement rockers (from the factory) not punched
any replacement pins put in by owners and mechanics -punch the edges.

have i missed something?

the 8mm pins are left blank while the factory 7.8mm pins were pressed in a circular way just inside the edge.

hope i got this right but that at the end of the day is what the doc is all about.

regards

Taffy
 
hey

go and look at the rear shock.

bushy?

smorgy?

viking?

http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/Rear_suspension

loads more to put in but i need people getting ointo their rear shock! then we'll have something to chat about.

all the kit stuff i have was supplied by drehwurm from austria. he just upped and sent it all. at present it's free of charge and i have yet to get it all working. if any of you want something like it i suggest you visit k-talk and have a word with him.

i just uploaded photos that a german (maddel) had prepared, some were from drehwurm (austria), Folie (netherlands, Khan cross (turkey), mine (england), husqy510 (USA), already there was makke (finland) and some KTM company steve told me of from australia.

i know i missed the canucks out but they just turn up and ride the sh... out of everything anyway so who cares up there anyway!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
bushie i think we need you to get doc privilages to upgrade our suspension section. i haven't got a clue what you are on about half the time but i can't fault your enthusiasm sir!

:D :D :D if even you can't understand what I'm on about Taffy then I have no business meddling with the DOC. :D :D

for suspension its really pretty good as. is the only thing I have experience with that could be improved is the method of reducing MV float adds prelaod to the MV spring and there is no description of how the MV spring stiffness and preload influences damping.

its really a very important tool for tuning. no MV spring with 0.2mm float is reported as the shiznit in rocks by more than just me. you loose a little long stroke LS but can add it back to the BV again increasing cart pressure and further reducing cavitation. or lossing that LS may be just what you need to get nice dip for the corners.

some description of the function of a BV face bleed shim in increasing LS stack lift and reducing initial harshness could be good.

I'm not fully there in understanding yet but there are a few things wrong with the 12mm rod forks that can be improved. for those wishing to buy a better BV for the 12mm rod forks Terry hay makes them. The smaller rod displaces less oil though the BV and more flows through the MV. the BV ports are now too big. the Bv is over digressive (read penske shock doc for explanation) and the BV shims lift less than on the 14mm rod forks. result is that initial harshness is increased.

basically its almost impossible to get enough HS damping on the BV to maintain proper cartridge pressure and reduce cavitation without having a too harsh LS or MS and initial harshness. this was the problem that led me to the 3 stage BV with flexy backers. and the same problem that led me to make the MVs with 2.5mm HS lift. Terry hay improved the BV to address the same propblems and I copied that idea. seems to be good so far.

Ktalks solution exept those using very soft or no MV spring is to rediculously soften The BV...................... MUSHY cavitaing MUSH i say. crisper less harsh forks are possible.

I'm only just getting into the shock so I don't really have anything useful to add. the pressure is important for desert racers obviously. there is SFA difference on paper between a SR 8.4 and a PDS 0 ask lew :oops: what he's using now. lighter fast guys may benefit from stiffer fork springs and a lot softer rear spring than is recommended by spring charts.

the bleed equipment is great and I have enough equipment to get vacuum and pressure applied to the process but I think that it should say something about using a bleed bottle, patience and common sense as being very very good, easy and simple. lews emthod of a shock body extension for filling makes life easy too. your N2 filling equipment is awesome! I'm jelous. a link to smorgys pics for a very simple schrader conversion may get a few more people into shock tuning.

perhaps in jetting something like " lean condition: revs but won't pull. rich condition; pulls but won't rev" and perhaps "with appropriate tall gearing you can use top speed in 5th as indicator of peak power at xRPM and top speed in 6th as indicator of peak tourque at YRPM." if thats even right ? its a tip from some guy who made my metering rod. he also advised that jetting for peak tourque needs a larger MJ than jetting for peak power? its a tricky balance with the 650 where the oodles of tourque are nice but power is nice too.

might help somebody. the kehien jetting chart could be modified to make more sense for the MJ, MAJ. slide cutout influence and fix up the discrepency between the needle position and taper influence and be posted in there too. just a thought your the man for jetting obviously. I'll do another scribble on one and send it to you for exam marking if you think its worth doing.

Taffy the doc is very very good and easy to understand hats off to your efforts. I guess the idea is to keep it that way? too much suspension info from me might be bad?

regards

Bushie
 
the jetting info is well put and i agree with you that i need to put something along your lines however the doc has never been about repeating verbatum stats from the owners or the parts manual. it's accepted that you go get them from the downloads and that the doc is about "what they DIDN'T tell you!).

can't agree with your mates scenario about 5th and 6th gear pull. that's what the MJ/MAJ is about and fact is that you can always stick a bike in 6th gear at 20MPOH and jet it for that but i have always jetted for the normal change of gear and the RPM that that represents. i can't imagine anyone would want it anyother way except someone in a MX GP or a green laner in 6th at 20mph!!!!

normal acceleration -through the box.....

we will need your input if we are to write anything on the 12mm cartridge rod.

as for the MV spring well i know it gets stiffer but i haven't had a chance to test it! if 5 or 6 of us gort stuckj in it would be excellent but there aren't.

tons of photos have gone in in the last 48 hours and another 15 will tonight.

keep watching!

regards

Taffy
 
well thats exactly my point. only stuff wot you both understand and have tested should go in the doc cause its your baby and your a good BS filter. like the MV springs, but ya did ask !

my mate is your mate too. hes got your initals wink wink the 5th and 6th is my bit. but from him; if you know that peak tourque is at say 6000 rpm, you can gear you bike appropriately, calculating trye size/ engine speed/ bike speed and rely on WOT top speed for an indicator of peak tourque at this rpm.

and if peak power is at say 8500Rpm do approproate gearing, caculating bike speed/engine speed and then can rely on WOT top speed as an indicator of peak power at this rpm.

like an open air dyno where air resistance is the dyno. again not my idea but works for me. the speeds are around 140-160Kmh + on my favourite dyno beach and even higher on the black stuff. not 20 MPH.

everyone changes gears at different points. even the same guy in different conditions changes differently where WOT top speed is a number. considering conditions of course but ideally runs are on the same day. granted this method is only sort of steady state and your method takes all practical acceleration situations into account. its a lot to take in at first. the WOT top speed lets you start at the top at least.

someone with your experience can pick +/- 1 HP? or less from feel and guage the effect it has on tourque? I can't, but the speedo can? its not my idea remember. DL.


descriptions of lean and rich conditions and their effect on running are not in any manuals I've seen. its very hard to find and is hidden in one of your very old posts on here actually. if someone is just starting and has no idea it would help them get over the fear of going too lean and maybe they would even try a 150 main? these are the things I wanted to find when I started. reading that you use a 145main is not the same as practical info on how to get there yourself. there is some there like the gasping but its not obvious to a beginner what gasping is. "won't pull" is pretty clear.

jetting for peak tourque rather than peak power is useful on a 650 if you need to average 140-160km/hr for a whole day in temps above 35 degC. jetting for peak power may nett a higher top speed but its neither needed nor helpful for engine temp.

none of this is intended as critisism Taffy, the doc is awesome I love it casue its simple and well laid out with plenty of high spirits and good humour. its one of the best sources of non BS infested info on any interent site ive ever seen. your job is to keep the BS out! mine included, and perhaps test any new ideas?

I'm not suggesting that any of my BS should go in the doc, just sharing what works for me.

keep it up I love it.

regards

Bushie
 
well we don't have rev counters! bean counters maybe!

i jet my bike for peak torque and peak power but again it's SotP stuff. i understand what he is saying but i have a MAJ that i can change so the two aren't dissimilar by the time i'm done.

i can feel an improvement of less than 1hp because i'm testing everything back to back! i last checked out the valve spring changes and that was a month ago. unfortunately i hadn't ridden for like two months and i knew i couldn't gaurantee to spot any difference. i'd been warned that i'd feel the difference at low revs.

i came out of a corner and the front wheel came up for the first time. second gear-20mph. that is a rare example of having to make do but jetting wise it can all be tested on the day.

regards

Taffy

regards

Taffy
 
i have a MAJ that i can change so the two aren't dissimilar by the time i'm done.

yes! thats the reason I started playing with the MAJ, now thats not any any manuals. patric burns majical website don't even say that.

sorry, Ill stop now.

regards

Bushie
 
i'm afraid gloating shouldn't come from me but here at UHE we have the best FCR guide anywhere in the world.

keep it under your hat!

regards

Taffy
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions