- Joined
- Jun 5, 2013
- Messages
- 1,196
- Location
- San Francisco CA. USA
I went of 1986 Husky 400 carb to a 2011 Husaberg fuel injected but what the hell is that thing. I know it's a carb but I haven't see half the S@it on it.
Help Support Husaberg:
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 223
- Location
- South Africa
The 39mm looks like the Jap style carbs which have a cast trumpet on the intake, which is shorter than the bolt-on trumpet on the KTM/Husa/Husq carbs.
The carb you got has got the longer trumpet so it should be OK.
I know there are 2 different elbows, one for 450 and one for 550/650, but I think they only differ in angle to compensate for the height difference between the engines.
Anyways, good luck.
The carb you got has got the longer trumpet so it should be OK.
I know there are 2 different elbows, one for 450 and one for 550/650, but I think they only differ in angle to compensate for the height difference between the engines.
Anyways, good luck.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,042
- Location
- Ely, England
and now get a jetting kit for it too!
regards
Taffy
regards
Taffy
The carb looks trick alright, I don't know what half the dials/screws do, but sure I'll learn 
The jetting kit: it was set up to match the bike's manual as part of the built, but I'd say we'll need to mess around with it indeed. There's an aftermarket exhaust on the bike (Reno - anybody ever heard about these? barely any info online), so I reckon the standard settings may be off, am I right?
The jetting kit: it was set up to match the bike's manual as part of the built, but I'd say we'll need to mess around with it indeed. There's an aftermarket exhaust on the bike (Reno - anybody ever heard about these? barely any info online), so I reckon the standard settings may be off, am I right?
Well, after a few month break we're getting back into things (...bought more parts...)
Think we really replaced most of the bike at this point, so the next thing is consumables:
What sprocket ratios do people use on their 650s? Standard is 15/42, isn't it?
I was thinking of going 15/44 to get a bit more torque but still be able to do decent speeds. And something that won't whellie like mad and instakill me.
Where will I ride: local mountain roads, but some of them fast'n'flowy. Also planning to track it on our local track, which is NOT a supermoto track. But then again, also want to take it to the **** roads in the mountains that no other bikes will do... what ya reckon?
Think we really replaced most of the bike at this point, so the next thing is consumables:
What sprocket ratios do people use on their 650s? Standard is 15/42, isn't it?
I was thinking of going 15/44 to get a bit more torque but still be able to do decent speeds. And something that won't whellie like mad and instakill me.
Where will I ride: local mountain roads, but some of them fast'n'flowy. Also planning to track it on our local track, which is NOT a supermoto track. But then again, also want to take it to the **** roads in the mountains that no other bikes will do... what ya reckon?
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
how's it coming along?
Almost done apparently! Might even be next week-ish.
Still need to decide on chain and sprockets though, haven't had the time. I've a few fast roads here so probably needs decent speeds. Then again, for speeds I have an Aprilia Tuono V4, so I'm willing to compromise, don't have to go 170km/h all the time
Not sure where to order sprockets in Europe, hard to find sprockets fitting FS650, are 570 the same? or any KTM sprockets? And then where to find supermoto sizes rather than MX sizes... thinking I should go 15/44 now for some decent speeds but good fun factor too.
Still need to decide on chain and sprockets though, haven't had the time. I've a few fast roads here so probably needs decent speeds. Then again, for speeds I have an Aprilia Tuono V4, so I'm willing to compromise, don't have to go 170km/h all the time
Not sure where to order sprockets in Europe, hard to find sprockets fitting FS650, are 570 the same? or any KTM sprockets? And then where to find supermoto sizes rather than MX sizes... thinking I should go 15/44 now for some decent speeds but good fun factor too.
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
15/44 sounds pretty high to me. Wheelie central!
Sprockets - be sure to get the correct front sprocket with the "lip" on it (i know there is some technical term, but that's what I call it) or your clutch slave cylinder is going to get chewed up (Hbg fron sprocket has a sort of built in spacer). Rears that aren't MX sizes are plentiful, so long as you are ok with Gold for the twin ring style, or silver and black for the JT steel sprockets. Any 2002-2008 125-525 sx/exc ktm rear will fit.
Sprockets - be sure to get the correct front sprocket with the "lip" on it (i know there is some technical term, but that's what I call it) or your clutch slave cylinder is going to get chewed up (Hbg fron sprocket has a sort of built in spacer). Rears that aren't MX sizes are plentiful, so long as you are ok with Gold for the twin ring style, or silver and black for the JT steel sprockets. Any 2002-2008 125-525 sx/exc ktm rear will fit.
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2012
- Messages
- 716
- Location
- Belgium brugge
Shortest gearing I used on my 650 was 15/40 (suplied with the bike also 38/16 sprocket came on the bike stock).
15/44 is good maybe for small real supermoto/kart track use where you don't use 6th anyway for cruisin on the street I would prefer taller gearing.
I liked the bike with 15/40 was stil capable doing 180+ but you had to rev it pretty hard for that....
when you gear it to long (stock 16/38 ) the difference between 5/6th gear is huge you realy have to rev it in 5th before going to 6th gear or you feel the bike is to low in the powerband to pull decently.
Or did you already decide/buy sprockets
15/44 is good maybe for small real supermoto/kart track use where you don't use 6th anyway for cruisin on the street I would prefer taller gearing.
I liked the bike with 15/40 was stil capable doing 180+ but you had to rev it pretty hard for that....
when you gear it to long (stock 16/38 ) the difference between 5/6th gear is huge you realy have to rev it in 5th before going to 6th gear or you feel the bike is to low in the powerband to pull decently.
Or did you already decide/buy sprockets
Thanks! Went with 15/42, hopefully a good decision. Not many highways here in Ireland, and where I live I just need to dig through half the city and I'm in the 'mountains' (they're really hills, but nothing else around we can call mountains).
The track is about 40 mins away too. Perks of living on a small island
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2013
- Messages
- 54
- Location
- nottinghamshire england
Ha, yours still looks better than mine
I also spent into four figures in total (counting the bike) and the figure starts with a 4 or 5 at this point. Haven't paid the labour cost yet For the graphics google 'motocal', you can design your own graphics there, that's what I did.
Anyways, we're almost there; yesterday it fired up, now we just have a few issues to sort out:
1.Rad seems to be leaking, hopefully it can be repaired, as original ones seem very costly :/
2.Engine has a small leak, but I knew about that, probably fixable.
3.Wheel bearings to be replaced.
4.Ignition key still not connected, starts on button - not great in an underground carpark :ninja:
5.Fork seals are weeping, will need replacing, but might seal a bit more once we use them a bit.
And probably more unexpected stuff. Still, it's alive!
Update time! Guess what!
The bike isn't finished yet The project stalled a bit (again) due to lack of time and money. Summer went by, autumn also went by, so no rush anymore. But we are slowly tipping away, seeing as there is only so many parts one can get for a simple bike like this. Anyways, I need your help:
Short story: we were replacing the water pump impeller seals. Just got the o-rings (thanks Taffy) and had the seals bought a while ago. Today it turned out the seal that came out of the bike is different than the one I got, about 1,5 times thicker. At a loss here, what am I missing? Pics below.
Backstory for the curious: the reason for going into the engine in the first place was an oil leak which we traced to the gear lever shaft. Most of the oil went onto the floor while the bike was standing in the garage for months. So we replaced that and then noticed that oil pump needed a bit of refresh.
The deeper we look... etc.
Here's the pics.
Seals (right - old, left - new)
Parts fiche. Part no 60 is what I ordered, right?
Bonus pic: at least the engine is shiny inside
The bike isn't finished yet
The project stalled a bit (again) due to lack of time and money. Summer went by, autumn also went by, so no rush anymore. But we are slowly tipping away, seeing as there is only so many parts one can get for a simple bike like this. Anyways, I need your help:Short story: we were replacing the water pump impeller seals. Just got the o-rings (thanks Taffy) and had the seals bought a while ago. Today it turned out the seal that came out of the bike is different than the one I got, about 1,5 times thicker. At a loss here, what am I missing? Pics below.
Backstory for the curious: the reason for going into the engine in the first place was an oil leak which we traced to the gear lever shaft. Most of the oil went onto the floor while the bike was standing in the garage for months. So we replaced that and then noticed that oil pump needed a bit of refresh.
The deeper we look... etc.
Here's the pics.
Seals (right - old, left - new)
Parts fiche. Part no 60 is what I ordered, right?
Bonus pic: at least the engine is shiny inside
- Joined
- May 12, 2002
- Messages
- 1,634
- Location
- Snowy Mountains NSW Australia
As long as the diameters are OK, doesn't make any difference, and puts the seal lip on a different part of the shaft where there is likely less wear. There are a few seals about that have the same diameters, with different widths.
Don't push the seal in too far, you need to allow the cavity to drain if necessary.
Don't push the seal in too far, you need to allow the cavity to drain if necessary.
Ha, didn't expect that answer, but kind of makes sense, I think... Got to love the interwebs, thanks!
Wanted to put together the engine on Saturday evening: yet again we were defeated by another missing o-ring, this time part number 0770173024 - another one for the water pump, between the main engine casing and cover. Not sure how did we miss this initially, but need to find this now before we can close up the engine and give it a go. Life is hard.
Another question: there is a triangle shaped "dirt-filter" that goes under the seat on the parts fiche, made from same black sponge as the tabs on both sides of the frame. Does anybody have a picture how this should be installed?
Another question: there is a triangle shaped "dirt-filter" that goes under the seat on the parts fiche, made from same black sponge as the tabs on both sides of the frame. Does anybody have a picture how this should be installed?
