- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Messages
- 1,355
- Location
- Pasadena Ca.
boheme said:ok, now I´ve checked... the idlescrew is 6 1/2 turns from bottom and the fuelscrew is 1 1/4 from the bottom.
I don´t know what´s "common" regarding the Idlescrew...
Since the guidelines for the Fuelscrew starts at 1 1/2 turns, and mine is just 1 1/4,
that must mean that my engine could use some more fuel on idling and low revs...
(as I understand it that screw adjusts the amount of fuel on idling and low revs???)
and that could be my way out of the hardstarting trouble and also to my problem that it easily dies on me on low revs and driving with clutchcontroll/low revs...
and as usual, I´m trying to learn things here so... correct me if I´m wrong...
/Rikard
Your adjustments are in the correct range. Yes the fuel screw mainly affects the idle mixture but also affects engine fuel mixture up to maybe 1/16th throttle. Wear of the slide needle and needle jet will also affect idlle and if they are badly worn you can correct for good idle using the fuel and idle screws but end up with an off idle condition that causes erratic operation at partial throttle (maybe up to 1/16th throttle).
So what we are trying to do here is set the idle mixture and speed and then run the bike to see if it performs well in partial throttle conditions. This process will determine if the carb slide needle and needle jet are worn enough to require replacement, which could be the cause of the partial throttle stalling and hard starting you have just described.
You really need a tachometer to make these adjustments because its very difficult to detect by ear the correct rpm to start with (1600 rpm). I have been doing this for 50 years and still use the tachometer.
The process I use is to warm the bike up by riding it, check the idle speed and adjust it to 1600 rpm using the idle adjust screw. Then adjust the fuel screw in and out for maximum rpm. After doing the fuel screw you may have to readjust the idle screw back to 1600 rpm.
Then make another pass with the fuel screw for maximum rpm. You will probably end up at 1650 rpm which is good. The bike should start real well at these settings.
The adjustment process should not take you more than 5 minutes once the bike is warmed up and the tachometer is connected.
Remember though when using the tachometer that the Husaberg ignition fires the spark plug every revolution of the crank shaft. You need to select the correct scale setting on the tachometer because of this. Use the same scale you would use for a single cylinder 2-stroke engine.
Let us know how it works out for you!
Regards,
Joe
