Starting problems!

Hi Tsounas

If you lost compression, I think you don't have a problem with your carb, now you have a mechanical problem !

Check your engine, if it was from one moment to the next, you might have broke something.

:cheers:
ZAGA

Tsounas said:

Hi all!

So, I was admiring my nicely idling berg one day. And I couldn't help playing with the idle screw, well I managed to set it so low that it died.
Haven't started since. And now I was trying to fix the problem and after I removed the sparkplug few times I totally lost compression.

Any tips/answers?

Thanks!

*Tsounas*

Click to expand...

The thread in your spark plug hole is gone and there its leaking compression?

I have screwed my idle screw out till it died, then when i screwd it back in it stared normal, are you actually checking pressure with a guage? i had 150 psi after a 2 secong crank with the e-start on my 600 but i have read in forum 130 is normal, an out of tune carb will not cause a no compression scenario, you should have compression even if you took the carb off,
engine needs air, fuel, spark, and compression all at correct time to run, start checking obvious starting with what you did, did you know how far the screws were out when it ran good,any time i tune a carb i will record the exact turns out they are before i screw with them so i can at least put it back to where it was
i think when i screwed mine out till it died it was 4-5 turns out or so, my 600 with phm40 carb seems to run best 2 turns out on idle screw and 1.75 turns our on mixture screw 1000ft elevation

What is your carb, its PHM40 ?

Whant is your jeting ?

:cheers:
ZAGA

Tsounas said:

my 600 with phm40 carb

Click to expand...

zaga said:

What is your carb, its PHM40 ?

Whant is your jeting ?

Click to expand...

you were talking to me right? hope so, here it goes!

needle and seat: 300
main: 195
needle jet: dr272
needle: k51
pilot jet: 45
start jet: 45
mixture jet tube: CD1

i dont have the 1997 manual but was told by the original owner that all jets were absolutly positively factory, i replaced the needle jet and needle with the same numbers recently, i have 99 manual, specs listed on all jets were significantly dIfferent with the same carb and engine, i think i may have something to gain with my jetting
or tweaking some but have not played around with it yet, 979ft /298 m elevation

starts good with button, never uses choke to start(have not used in less the 50 deg farenhient yet), seems just not quite as responsive as it could be on initial hard throttle roll on but picks up hard right after,
it also stutters or backfires? a little near the the top of the gear right as i am going to shift when revving it out sometimes, maybe its at redline when this happens? and i just think there should be a little more?
best mixture screw setting is actualy closer to 1.25-1.5 not 1.75 in my previous post and 2 out on idle

any ideas, recomendations or more questions feel free to ask

Tsounas said:

Nope, I set the idle way too low. That's why it lost it's compression. I really don't know how but when the engine isn't getting enough gasoline it loses it's compression.

Anyhow, I allready managed to get the compression back, simply by increasing the idle. But I haven't still been able to start my Berg. I have very strong feeling that the idle is set completely of the map. Too high or too low.

That's my problem now, I cant figure out is it too high or too low?

Any solutions?

Thank you for your answers

*Tsounas*

Click to expand...

When you say compression, you are meaning the point at which the piston is moving up to Top Dead Center with both valves closed and the spark plug fires once at TDC. Adjusting the idle screw on your carby will have no adverse affect on your compression. You may not get fuel through to the piston but you will still have compression.

Now, when you say you have lost compression are you kicking the bike over by foot or have you got an electric start?
If you are using the electric start then how are you determining this loss of compression?
If you are kicking the bike over by foot and the kick starter moves through freely it's more than the idle screw.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, Your engine should not loose compression at any time. If it does than its not your idle screw.

Does the bike have auto decompression?

Hi

Easyrider is right, you can't have lost compression because of the carb, its got nothing to do with it. I dind't pay much attention to that because I thought it was a thing that was just your impressiom or that you have done something worng with some decompressor without paying attention.

So if you don't have compression you have a mechanical problem with piston or top end (valve, decomp, etc)

About your carb you are too rich on almost everywhere, that is why you can start your engine without choke.
Well on the start jet you may what to try a 40, it works better most of the times, on the pilot you should go leaner, some poeple go even to a 33, but try a 35 0r 40, but check if your cutaway is standard, with the needle jet some people go even richer than you to the 274 on the 600 but they are much leaner on the pilot jet, cant realy say. With the K51 usualy its from DR270 to 274, but you can try the K33 with the DR 266.

Its hard to say without beying near every engine asks diferent things from the carb, so maybe someone with more knowlege can give you one more acurate recipie, but you allways will have to listen to your engine.

And you should check if the carb is clean and if the o-rings are ok, on the pilot screw and on the start jet.

My advice, to don't sepend lots of money just now is to check o-rings and to go to a SJ 40 and PJ 35, and analyse results.

Sorry my speling, I'm on too much cafeiiiin..
:cheers:
ZAGA

Tsounas! good to here your bike is running!

ZAGA,
i greatly appreciate the info, i thought the same thing about being rich everywhere, especially at start, idle and slow speeds, i just installed a new dellorto gasket set so all gaskets are new and good, and carby is very clean and also just replaced the needle and jet with original replacments, i agree my next step is going to change out the start and pilot then ill just moniter the situation for a few months (your thoughts match mine exactly and jets are fairly cheap), it really runs good and everything i am just nit picking it now!

thanks again! good luck tsounas!

Tsounas said:

Wow, thanks guys for replies!!

4 turns and started, 2 turns back = perfectly running beauty!

Now I don't have anything wrong with my beauty! SOO happy!

But still I think that carb and gasoline circulation affects to compression! Sounds stupid, I know, but still.

Thanks really really much!!! =)

Happy holidays to all! Or summer anyway here in North

*Tsounas*

Click to expand...

sorry I didn't see this before otherwise I would have said this:

If you continually try to kickstart a husey they can WASH the bore and you lose all compression. nothing. zilch!

it will come back when it tries and eventually starts.

a low idle screw is the bain of why so many bikes wion't start. suggest when in doubt that you set it too high. I think there is a slide height in the doc? you simply put a 4.5mm drill bit shank under the front of the slide and you're in the ball-park.

regards

Taffy

i have an 01 fc 470 that wont start when its hot any suggestions?

my first suggestion would be to start a new thread that describes in more detail what your problem is and how it started, instead of hijacking this one.
second, from the owners doc: http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php? ... r_starting

Hi Tsounas

When it gets cold, you have more oxigen in the same volume of air, so you should go richer, because you can burn more fuel in the same amount of air.

In the mixture srew, in this case its what we call pilot screw, you should go to the left to get more gas, if it was a pilot air screw it was different because then, it would control air so you would go to the right to close air and get richer.

So in this case you go to the left to get richer.

I don't know with -5ºC how much richer you should go, but try to get the highest rev that you can with the pilot screw and then correct it with the idle screw.

Another thing is that with the pilot screw you are only correcting the mix until 1/4 of the opening, after that you will need jet and needle (clip) changes to correct things.

Hope it helps

:cheers:
ZAGA

with the FS set correctly the bike should idle OK?

maybe it is the tappets?

regards

Taffy

More facts needed if you want help!
What is your carb jetting?
Are the valves adjusted?
Old plug?
And from what year is the bike?
Jampe