This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

starting husaberg 501fe

fastfred

fastfred

Joined Dec 2010
17 Posts | 0+
sandlake michigan u.s.a.
I just got myself a 1995 husaberg fe 501 It is stock and I love the bike,but I can't kick start it,I have been having my wife tow me behind her jeep to jump start it,this works fine and the bike runs great. I need help learning the kick start procedure,I have owned other jap.4 strokes and know I need to get it just past t.d.c.. but I have no luck kicking it over.I need help! thanks not so fastfred
 
i have the 94 model , have had o problems, but u must learn the mode .all the way down to tdc let the kick starterlever return backto the top then back down till u feel it start to move then push down hard, good luck, mines a breeze,good luck feel free if any questions,
 
I had a '96 FE501 that I bought new. The proceedure I found to always work was to get the piston up on compression, let the kick start lever return to the top, and then give it a full kick all the way through the stroke of the lever. If you don't kick it all the way it will not start. And I did this with my left foot while astride the bike, but I have been starting left side kick bikes since my '74 Husqvarna 175WR I bought when I was 15. For me, the FE501 was way easier to kick over than my 2 previous bikes - Husqvarna 500XC 2-strokes - but using the proper technique is essential.

You also want to make sure the kick-start actuated compression release is working properly or you will not be able to kick the motor over.
 
do I hold the decompression lever in while tring to kick over ? thanks I can not beleave how much trouble I have with starting tis.I have be starting it by dragging it behind my wifes jeep and with all the compression I will have flat spots on my tire soon. I will chack to make sure decompression lever is working o.k. it will not kick over at all without using it,but I will still look it all over . I will also get freah gas and plug also. thanks for your help.this is a great sight,and hope to figure this out,becouse I want to keep this bike fred
 
Fred bro. you should only need to use the decompressor to release the compression to get past TDC, then release the decompressor lever , return the kickstartand give it a proper kick as stated above.
 
This really sounds to me like the semi-auto (kick lever actuated) compression release is not adjusted properly because if it is the bike should kick over fairly easily without doing anything manually since it functions for about the first 30% of the kick stroke (the only time I used my manual comp release lever was to clean out after flooding the motor). If the cable is adjusted properly you should be able to move the kick lever with your hand - I've been told the by a dealer that the Husaberg rep. could actually start a 501 using only his hand. The later models with counterbalancers, electric starters, etc. have more resistance to spinning over than the early kick start only models.

The first thing I would do is to check the auto-decompression cable adjustment which is done with the motor at TDC on compression stroke. The small decompression arm on the right side of the cylinder head should have only 3-4mm of play (if I remember right) at TDC on the compression stroke. The manual lever on the handlebar (which is adjuisted with the engine running) should have 10mm of movement at the end of the lever before engagement. I never bothered getting the motor past TDC before trying to start my '96 FE501 and I weighed only 135lbs. when I first got it. My '05 FE550 is definitely harder to kick over than the '96 as was my '02 FE650 (understandable!).
 
Check your kickstart leaver. It should be really tight (spring loaded) against the clutch casing.
 
Hi!
Im just going to post my problem here...
So, I have a 2000 husaberg FE 400 E. I know how it should be started and i have started it multiple times without problems.
But (there is allways the but) sometimes when I try to start it, it won't start and it feels like the engine has lost compressions? I mean the kickstart is lighter than before etc... I haven't got a clue what it might be, so would someone be nice and help me! :)

Thanks: Joonas
 
Hello.
It might be cable from the kick that is dry and keeps the decomp in wrong position.
In Swedish, decompkablen kanske är trög och släpper inte som den ska och trycker ner avgasventilen hela tiden.

Mvh
Jampe
 
Cable from the kick? What cable and where it is? I do have a decompression lever on the handlebars and i use it to get past tdc but its hard to find the tdc for some reason?? And after i use the decompressor and kick, it feels too light to start up.
Lets keep speaking english :D I have studied swedish, but not that much. :D
 
Ok
Then you don`t have the kickactivated cable on your bike it goes from the rear of the engine to the decomp.
Adjust the one you have properly so it don`t turn over and lock the exhaustvalve in open position.
Or the best thing to do is to mount the KTM decomp/spring called Dutch clog.
Regards
Jampe
 
you should actually have started a new thread, not jump in on this one.
at any rate, your bike does not have the kickstart cable. (one of the good things about it). if it is changing the feel of compression, i can think of two things that would cause it: the cam actuated decomp is occasionally hanging up because of wear, or the handlebar cable is moving around at the front of the tank and jamming in the "pull position". when the bike is running, look at the lever on the engine. it should be still, not jumping. if this is a problem, secure the cable as it goes by the radiator, and readjust it.
note: it appears jampe types faster than i do
 
Ok, I think i will try these instructions and see what happens... The cable may be dry and needs oiling.
Thanks for advices and i will stop posting to this topic! :)
 
the kick start is very easy and really I do not need to use the decompression lever to get it just past t.d.c. the bike just will not start,I kick it all the way throw and get not even a sputor.It has good spark and like I said it will start when I pullstart behind my jeep,It run fine wonce started.I can't figure it out,wish it was elec. start.I am ready to give up and sell it. thanks for all the imput fred
 
The ignition may be on it's way out - did you check for spark when kicking it over? I had the igniton (SEM) go bad on a 2002 FE650 I used to have and kick-starting it was next to impossible because the only way to get spark was to spin the motor very fast - faster than I could spin it using the kick lever. At low speed the ignition would create weak, intermittant spark and the electric start on my '02 was more of a re-starter (after the motor was warmed up) and would hardly turn the motor over when cold. Before I replaced the ignition it was hard to get spark when kicking it over even with the plug out. New ignition and it always started right up - usually 2nd kick when cold and first kick when hot.

Rick at BOSS Offroad probably has complete ignitions (he did for my "02) and there are a couple of places that sell re-wound stators.

Randy
 
I have repaired stators and coils in stock. what I often do is ask for both units off the customer and check them on my bike. I charge £30 to swop and attempt to run the bike up. when we find out which unit is gone we charge a straight fee for the faulty unit and drop the charges for the testing.

regards

Taffy
 
if every thing is ajusted ok do you ride it every day or do you only ride it some times as i have found with mine if you leave it longer than 2 weeks standing you might have to drain the fuel just out of the carb as modern fuel does not like an open vent as it goes off. i have 2 early berg's one IS a 97FE the other one is a bit of a special only the engine is from a berg the rest is hand made 'it was built for Scott Eastwood to ride in the 89-90 World Moto x GP's. it has no lever on the bars but alway's starts 2 or third kick even if it's been standing 7 or 8 months( after draining stale fuel out of carb) i tried a lever on the bars but took it of again it was not needed.
 
Here's the procedure I learned for my '87 Husky TC510. If the bike is dead cold:
1. Turn on the gas
2. Pull in the manual compression release
3. Kick the bike through the entire stroke of the lever 10 times
4. Screw the idle adjuster in about 1/4 turn
5. Turn on the choke
6. Kick the lever through without the manual decompressor until you find top dead center
7. Grab the manual decompressor and move the engine just past top dead center
8. Release the manual decompressor and bring the kick lever all the way back up to the top of the stroke
9. Kick hard all the way through the stroke
10. If it does not start on the first kick, repeat steps 6 through 9
11. If it doesn't start after 4 or 5 cycles of steps 6 through 9, turn off the choke and repeat steps 2 through 9
If it still doesn't start, there's something wrong with the bike. Could be ignition, could be jetting, or it could be a plugged jet from old gas in the carb or dirt in the carb.

Obviously, once the bike is running and warmed up, you'll need to back off the idle adjuster.

I've used this starting procedure for every thumper I've owned since that Husky and some have been easier to start than others. When you get good at it, you don't have to raise the idle because you get good at cracking the throttle manually. Only a millimeter of twist at the grip will be necessary. On the newer bikes that don't have a manual decompressor, the hot start will perform the same job of clearing out the engine as steps 2 and 3.

When the bike is hot you'll still need to find top dead center and kick just past before giving it the big boot and it should start. If the bike was just crashed, it may be in a rich condition and in need of clearing out. Steps 2 and 3 should help here.

I know that a lot of this is just a repeat of what others have said but the key points are that, when cold, the engine needs to be kicked through several times to "prime" the fuel system and the idle should be raised slightly so that it will stay running once your kick is successful.

Tom
 
thorgan said:
Here's the procedure I learned for my '87 Husky TC510. If the bike is dead cold:
1. Turn on the gas
2. Pull in the manual compression release
3. Kick the bike through the entire stroke of the lever 10 times
4. Screw the idle adjuster in about 1/4 turn
5. Turn on the choke
6. Kick the lever through without the manual decompressor until you find top dead center
7. Grab the manual decompressor and move the engine just past top dead center
8. Release the manual decompressor and bring the kick lever all the way back up to the top of the stroke
9. Kick hard all the way through the stroke
10. If it does not start on the first kick, repeat steps 6 through 9
11. If it doesn't start after 4 or 5 cycles of steps 6 through 9, turn off the choke and repeat steps 2 through 9
If it still doesn't start, there's something wrong with the bike. Could be ignition, could be jetting, or it could be a plugged jet from old gas in the carb or dirt in the carb.

Obviously, once the bike is running and warmed up, you'll need to back off the idle adjuster.

I've used this starting procedure for every thumper I've owned since that Husky and some have been easier to start than others. When you get good at it, you don't have to raise the idle because you get good at cracking the throttle manually. Only a millimeter of twist at the grip will be necessary. On the newer bikes that don't have a manual decompressor, the hot start will perform the same job of clearing out the engine as steps 2 and 3.

When the bike is hot you'll still need to find top dead center and kick just past before giving it the big boot and it should start. If the bike was just crashed, it may be in a rich condition and in need of clearing out. Steps 2 and 3 should help here.

I know that a lot of this is just a repeat of what others have said but the key points are that, when cold, the engine needs to be kicked through several times to "prime" the fuel system and the idle should be raised slightly so that it will stay running once your kick is successful.

Tom
Click to expand...
I have never had to go through all this with any of the Husabergs (501, 550, 650), Yamaha (YZ400F), Honda CRF, or 4 stroke KTMs I've owned as long as the carb settings were correct. Fuel on, choke on, piston just past TDC, and all of them usually started 2nd kick when cold.
 

Similar threads

P
Husaberg FC450 No start
Replies
0
Views
287
Putoze
P
T
Restoration Husaberg 501 / 1991
Replies
7
Views
260
Tobias427
T
N
Help on oil pump FE 390
Replies
3
Views
956
Nomadahowfar
N
B
Spark for 2-3 seconds then nothing.
Replies
10
Views
574
mosierz48
M
F
FE570 low idle issue, outside of the usual suspects! (I think)
Replies
1
Views
418
rikschipp
R

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions