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Starters & Stators??

Thanx Twisty, you are a scholar & a gentleman. Again you have explained what I needed perfectly!
 
Tafffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

Tafffffffffffffffff, I'm on shift, I think YOU are the one on the plonk!!
Dont worry about it, I sussed it out myself. No good as it will cause the exhaust valve to open prematurley.
As for the MANUAL decomp. thanks for the explanation, but I actually know how it works. I was TRYING to work out what YOU were up to using it to electrically start????? Wish you had mentioned this earlier, as I could have used your technique. Now I need a cam chain con-link and I will be doing some welding or else getting a new decomp assy?
ps, Lay off the warm plonk Tafffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffy
 
I've allready asked Twist & Taff this, but what do you others reckon about this decomp arm? How long do they last? Have others welded a tab on theirs? How effective was it? etc etc
The new arm costs $100, plus $18 for a conlink + cam bearings?
 
I’ve had two of them brake and damage other parts of the engine in the process. Other people have obviously had some success welding the spot on the surface that sits on the cam (outside of the sprocket) but with the design of the part i.e. lots of square edges which will act as stress concentration points, the hardness of the steel (approx 60 on Rockwell C scale) and the brittleness I would be very careful when welding it as this could make things even worse. I ended up leaving mine out altogether, its not electric start though
 
Mine now has about 460 hours. A bit worn when I replaced the cam at 400 hors but works OK for starting. 98 FE501. Hot starting is on average 1-2 kicks.

Steve
 
decomp cam??

Well today, I replaced my worn decomp cam ($100) plus $20 for the cam chain link and $16 for the bearings. Well it turns over much easier now and EVEN started twice???? BUT the problem is definately "not turning over fast enough"! I talked to the dealer on Friday about the cam, which came from the factory with a weld on it?? The dealer told me that they have replaced the stater motor on older bikes with the 04/550/650 unit and all probs go out the window! So I tried it with 24 volts again, and it starts instantly. I know this is not good for the s/motor but it only cost me $51 Aust and its only 24 volts for a short time and I will be careful not to burn it out. For the price of $500 for the new s/motor I can afford to buy a few more spares!
Goin for a ride tomorrow so I'll see how it performs in the bush.
 
Well worst luck, I didnt actually get to ride today. So the first proper test will be next w/end at an Enduro? So I'll get to see how she goes then. I may even try a 6 volt battery in series instead?
 
Kicker starts but not e/start

Hi Scully,

I seem to have the same problems with my '03 400. It has 90 hours on it and won't start with the e/start even when it is hot.

Was wondering if your old de-comp arm was the problem after all? Will it start now with only one battery or do you still need the two of them?

Would you please send me the part number for the de-comp arm and connecting links for the cam chain. I haven't opened it up yet but would like to have all the parts necessary before I proceed.

If anyone else has these part numbers please send them. This beast is a pain to kick start! :x


Thanks in advance!
Mel
 
Thanks

Hi Dale and Brad,

Thanks for your replies. I will keep ya posted when I get this thing e/started! :)

Mel

PS I may have more questions!
 
Solved my e-starting problem on '03 Husaberg 400

Hi Dale and Brad,

I solved my e-starting problem on my '03 400. Yup, this is what I did. I SOLD my 2003 400 and kept my 2000 400! My 2000 was way more reliable anyways and it starts everytime! Now, to find new plastics for my 2000 :D

Thanks again,
Mel
 

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