Starters & Stators??

Ok, I got sick of waiting for my 04/550 starter motor, so I managed to find out that the Mitsuba SM-14( fitted as std) has a spline that is fairly common. So I bought one on Ebay(US) for $20us.I got it the other day, and had to make a bracket to fit it, as the mounting end and holes are different. I used my old s/motor mounting end and the remainder was from the CBR600 f4 purchased on ebay. The newish s/motor has a bigger armature and is aprox 9mm longer.
Having fitted it and getting very excited about how much money I saved and how clever I had been, the Berg wont start off the button? Bugger!
I cant work it out. It still kicks ok. So today I spent the day following the "hard starting guide". I am unsure of a few things, firstly the resistance between the yellow and blue wires, does " <1.0 ohms" this mean the reading should be LESS than 1 ohm or GREATER than 1 ohm??
I measured 0.4 ohms? All the other values seem to be ok , but with the following exception, "Coil charge wires ( red/ black) Volts AC, when the bike is "kicked" (loaded and unloaded) I get 55 VAC, compared to 31 VAC when electrically operated??????????????????? So does this mean (A) the engine doesnt turn over fast enough on the button to create aprox 35VAC, or (B) is the s/motor drawing to much away from the stator, or (C) is 0.4 of an ohm not enough resistance and my stator is stuffed?????
I have tried to contact Mitsuba to ask how the s/motors are rated, but it is a Japanese site and they have not answered 5 requests? By the look of the s.motor I would have thought it would more than do the job? And would this have happened if I had bought the 04 s/motor which is also a larger unit???????????????????????????? Like I said I am stuffed!
Could it be the "auto decomp", I have actually pulled the manual decomp, lever in a little as I turn the motor over(as this worked with the old s/motor, before it burnt out) but it still wont go.
ps, I also have two batteries fitted!
Please help, if you can.
Thanks,

Brad

I did it as per the "Husaberg hard start guide" I downloaded from here. It says i should get 30/ 35 VAC on the black/red wires (coil charge wires) and I get that and more. So it sounds like my stator is ok?
The newish s/motor is from a CBR600 2002/2003 ( I think) maybe it just turn fast enough? And when its on the CBR it may have some kind of "gearing up " system??
Thanks for the compliment, the R6 s/motor is the same to, I found a lot with the same spline but all have a different mounting system.
Come on, I need some more thoughts here, Im not having a push button bike that has to be kicked!

Yes the 24 volt start system is something I have thought about for a while, but how exactly do I do it?? I reckon this would work.
Since I bought the Berg I have cleaned and looked after the stator like it was my own child, and the "readings" I got seem to indicate it is good? The coil is new.
Today I thought it might be the solenoid so I checked the resistance while open and closed, and this appears good to? Next I checked the voltage across it while closed, and I get 0.5 of a volt lost, so this seems good to.
Then I checked the voltage across the batteries while cranking and idle. I get 13 volts idle, and the batteries get down to 10 volts while cranking?? This is a bit of a loss?? I also noticed while cranking that the s/motor turns the motor over for a while ,then something lets go and it free wheels?? What is this? Is this the "sprauge clutch" or what ever I've heard people talk about? It also seems to me that the longer it turns over the easier it gets to turn?( with in reason). There must be an electrical "guru" out there whom can help us ALL out??
What about this "no-lodgy" wire ?? Has anyone used it or heard about it?
Maybe the new 04 s/motors spin at a higher RPM??

So 85 viewings so far and a handful of replys? Doesnt anyone out there understand auto electrics???????? Come on! There must be a fix for this pathetic starting probs we have with these Bergs, 24 volts while cranking? what about a capacitor that discharges only when the button is pushed? There must be something we can do!
I dont really want to go back to the dealer with my tail between my legs and ask for the 04 starter!
COME ON !

On a recent KTM ride here in Tassie a bloke had his clutch lever assy all covered up with plastic bags. Well as the ride went on he eventually told us what IT was all about but noone was allowed a look. He had come up with a hydraulic clutch and rear brake all in one?? You pull the lever in half way for clutch and then the next part of the pull is rear brake. It is currently awaiting a patent?
But we cant work how to make our bikes turn over faster or get a bigger spark!!

Today

12/5/04
Today (before afternoon shift) I put the batteries back in the bike, checked earths, wires, all the silly obvious things. Then while cranking the bike over I measured the voltage across the s/motor, it gets as low as 2 volts when it compression locks, but mostly is about the 7/8 volt mark.
I have talked to an instrument electician(my brother) whom says after viewing the circuit diagram it is definatley the starter motor NOT turning the motor over fast enough to get a big enough spark from the stator. He has also told me how to hook up the batts so I get 24 volts only at the starter when the button is pressed, I will try this JUST to see if the spark increases?
I also hooked the bike up to the car which took the voltage up to almost 14 volts, and it did ALMOST start twice?? So it sounds like we are on the right track. If the batts in series gets the bigger spark, I could hook up a 6 volt battery instead as the spare only for starting which would not get charged. Either this or try to find out whether the 04/550 s/motor will ACTUALLY turn the motor over faster? By the way these are still NOT in stock at my dealer or Husaberg?
See how I go next?

Brian

When I had the old s/motor and batteries connected you some times had to pull the manual decomp in a tad to get it to fire?
I think the s/motor is good, the batteries have both been load tested and the solenoid appears ok? If you disconnect the lead to the s/motor the solenoid gets a 0.5 voltage drop across it. When you watch the spark on the plug, it is a big difference between kick & button?
It was a bit hard to see the voltage across the s/motor while I had it hooked up to the car, but I noticed APROX 7/8 volts? This was after 20 or more secs of cranking, I didnt think it was to bad?
I cant get my hands on a dial indicator, can I do it another more crude way??
I have often thought it could be this decomp thing but noone wanted to help me the last time asked about it? I understand what it does, and by me manually doing it, it should still start. I dont try and crank it while it is in a comp lock. Even with the manaul decomp in, the spark doesnt get any better??? This would tend to suggest that the motor is not turning over fast enough? Dont you think? When you talk to others(non Husaberg types) they all say that it sounds like the motor isnt cranking fast enough.
They also say why wasnt this all addressed when the bikes were new?? It seems WE put up with these euro quirks?
I have tried AGAIN to contact Mitsuba (the makers of these s/motors) to get info but to no avail, as I dont want to order 1000 s/motors??? But I would think the s/motors would all be the same from the factory and the different manufacturers would use internal gearing to suit?? Maybe I'm wrong?
I dont want to wait and fork out for the 04 motor only to find that its the same?
Thanks for the help B.