Sprocket spline stripped :( :(

bergbro said:

OCTOBRO.... there is a bloke in Waiuku by the name of Gurnad Giesler (not sure of his shop name) who has Plenty of knowledge and experience on earlier Bergs. May be of some help to you.

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cheers for that bergbro...i'll ask around and see if anyone knows this knowledge vault

by the way bro, we have a recent Husaberg and 70degree Owners Australasia page running on fb now...please request to join and i'll happily welcome you. There's a bunch of us sharing info etc, and the more the merrier. Kia ora raa.

OP, I saw your pics on Adv... very nice.

Octobro..... been searching FB for husaberg and 70 degree owners australasia crowd but I cant find anything.
What am I missing mate?

could be hidden?

bergbro said:

Octobro..... been searching FB for husaberg and 70 degree owners australasia crowd but I cant find anything.
What am I missing mate?

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Its under Husaberg & 70degree Owners Australasia...if u can't find it, just give me your fb 'handle' and i'll friend and add you no worries. Need to stick together with our little blue dirt and rock minions.

As for photos, i haven't yet finished compiling, but i will get a proper set posted in NZ Adventure Riding fb page very soon

output shaft/crankshaft seal?

jon andersson said:

This is what I figured out, and is partly based on a discussion with a good Husaberg mechanic.
Hope this help. I will try to upload the complete workshop manual somewhere.

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Hey Jon, how are you getting on? Another question is does the OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL or CRANKSHAFT SEAL come with the complete gasket set? Really need to replace that and not wanting to attempt using old gaskets or seals.

Looking forward to your pics and process!

So its a bad idea to use ironman dirttricks front sprockets?
I Just bought 2 and they are not cheap

octopusenvy said:

Hey Jon, how are you getting on? Another question is does the OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL or CRANKSHAFT SEAL come with the complete gasket set? Really need to replace that and not wanting to attempt using old gaskets or seals.

Looking forward to your pics and process!

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Complete stand still. I'm working in the oil industry and am right now in the North Sea. When I get home I will not have time to split the engine in some time either (too much going on, one thing is to put together my other 570) but I can check what gaskets there are in the kit. I'm sure the seals you need are there but just to be sure.

sprockets and spline wear

HusaBELGfs570 said:

So its a bad idea to use ironman dirttricks front sprockets?
I Just bought 2 and they are not cheap

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Kia ora HusaBELG...I am really learning as I go but for the most part the spline is something we need to keep an eye on and protect more. KTM has susceptible (weak) splines IMHO, but we can do a lot to protect it from using OEM sprockets to running the right ratio gearing to having cush-hub rear wheel etc. Even the washer is important.

The main thing is that i reckon you can use most front sprockets, BUT you must be above vigilant in checking your chain tension and drivetrain in general.

I would be very interested to hear about different gearing ratios on our Husaberg drivetrain (KTM). I am very very happy with 13/48 but not sure its a good combo for less wear or improved lifespan of chain/sprockets?

I also ordered a dirt tricks sprocket washer and will order cush drive for my hub this weekend.
My non cush hub is toast anyway my bike has around 270 hours and only used oem front sprockets till now.
But not happy with chain life so I ordered the most durable chain and sprockets I could find...
Ek zzz chain ironman dt front sprockets and Supersprox stealth rear

be careful...

HusaBELGfs570 said:

I also ordered a dirt tricks sprocket washer and will order cush drive for my hub this weekend.
My non cush hub is toast anyway my bike has around 270 hours and only used oem front sprockets till now.
But not happy with chain life so I ordered the most durable chain and sprockets I could find...
Ek zzz chain ironman dt front sprockets and Supersprox stealth rear

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I'd say be very careful with 'the most durable chain and sprockets' because hardened steel to last longer can take its toll quickly on a relatively weak spline metal. I'd rather replace cheap sprockets that wear rather than what I'm doing now (the spline!). Keep a good eye on it and keep us posted please. Also include what kind of riding you are doing. If its all low speed technical its not so bad, but higher speeds for longer time or high revs can really stress the spline!

BTW, I've priced up a TALON full cush-hub rear wheel and a RAD cush-hub rear wheel. Both are around 800usd, but good insurance. The hub alone is 600usd but then u need different spokes and the angle is different on the cush side. Full wheel is better then u can swap out and have 2

Mine is a supermoto and runs over 9000 rpm freguently and on bigger tracks speeds around 180...
I am amazed how hard these bikes are on drivetrain.
On my 1000 cc sportbike I also use 520 chain and that bike makes almost 3x power and the chain lasts longer....

Have you tried filling the shaft to see if it is hard or not?,
If it is soft any sprocket would probably ruin it.

some considerations after replacing my spline

so my case is still split after 8000kms only, but now having the full gasket set and countershaft sent via the USA it's time to put it back together. one thing i began to consider is the countershaft seal and the small rubber o-ring that is meant to seal down when the OEM nut is tight into the front sprocket. I had a small weep from there, and then lost the bolt on a short ride! altho i replaced the bolt within 50kms, it got me thinking that my spline was having trouble since long before. the weep would mean not enough pressure and the ability of the front sprocket to shake around enough on the spline to cause early wear.

Another detail is the strong pitch on the teeth of my front sprocket which is still quite new (under 1000kms and replaced with a new chain at the same time about 750kms before the spline stripped). It suggests there was a lot of pressure on the front sprocket which could have been caused by the sticking of some links and the fact that my rollers were absolutely knackered on the old chain. They caused half the teeth on the earlier sprocket to shear off! So going back, the weep could have made the front sprocket loose, the old stiff chain links could have also put pressure on the old front sprocket and spline, and the new chain could have been very tight (it was, but not overly tight; 10mm only, but it didn't seem to slacken off after the first 500kms).

I'm now going to a Dirt Tricks Dome Washer, a bit extra slack in the chain, and I found myself a Talon cush hub rear wheel laced with strong SS spokes to an Excel Double Signature rim. I've heard bad things about the talon hub on 950/990 big bikes with big power/torque/weight, but should be fine on the 570...plus the wheel was only $300usd to my door with 5000kms only so worth it!

Hopefully all cleaned up and back together in the next 2wks, but we'll see. Looking forward to riding her again for sure, and learning from the experience of course.

I have myself a big box of ordered spares and tools waiting for me at the shop when I get home from work. I just need to put together my enduro before I can tear the motard to pieces (it ended quite badly while ice racing so I hope TLC is all that's needed and not anything major..)

IMO don't buy The talon cush hub. I have one on my FE570 and it appears to do little or nothing to absorb the shock to the drivetrain. It has appx 6 rubber washers that are rock hard. The Rad seems to have much better cushioning.

Talon vs Rad

FredE said:

IMO don't buy The talon cush hub. I have one on my FE570 and it appears to do little or nothing to absorb the shock to the drivetrain. It has appx 6 rubber washers that are rock hard. The Rad seems to have much better cushioning.

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I agree that the Rad is better. But I had the option to try a Talon on an Excel rim in very good condition with no marks on the posts at all AND a brand new set of rubbers all for only $400AUD or 265EU...you can't even buy the hub only for that price. I think it's a good experiment and I will use it until i notice no difference OR find another RAD cush hub wheel for an equally good price. Plenty of people here would buy this wheel for $700-$800AUD so i reckon it's still worthwhile to try

Yes worth a try and better than no cush drive at all. I paid AUD$900 with a blue excel rim straight from the distributor JTR in Qld (my son worked for a bmw dealer) so $400 for just the hub is a good price.

FredE said:

Yes worth a try and better than no cush drive at all. I paid AUD$900 with a blue excel rim straight from the distributor JTR in Qld (my son worked for a bmw dealer) so $400 for just the hub is a good price.

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Actually its $400 for the entire wheel mate! talon hub, HD gauge SS spokes, black excel double signature rim

I reckon totally worth it.

That said, I would have love to have the blue rim like you to keep the match

I have never split the cases on my FE650 so I can't be of any help there. But I must say that I am SOOO jealous of you living in Ahipara! I was over there for Xmas with the in-laws and bro-in-law took my to the beach at Ahipara where the big sand hills are.
You live in riding heaven over there!

not just Ahipara...

AxelVK said:

I have never split the cases on my FE650 so I can't be of any help there. But I must say that I am SOOO jealous of you living in Ahipara! I was over there for Xmas with the in-laws and bro-in-law took my to the beach at Ahipara where the big sand hills are.
You live in riding heaven over there!

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Those dunes and the ones up the gumfields are our local secret But mate we have the best riding in the world when you see the North & South Island off-road possibilities...and that's coming from someone who has done a fair bit of overseas riding. Loved Tassie tho!

Let me know if you ever plan a riding holiday, happy to help out. As for the 570, she's nearly finished and will be back online shortly!