splitting the crank on a pre 2001

Taffy · Jan 30, 2014

had some trouble splitting the crank on a 2000 engine I'm doing, the last of the early engines. there is very little metal around the big end pin. one engineer refused to do it as their normal equipment couldn't do the job.

I have had a plate engineered that allows this to be done now so if any of you have this type of problem then a large U-shaped piece of steel is the answer. it is 12mm plate and literally hugs the big end of the rod and even has a taper like the rod does to one side. this sends an acute-edged lip under just 2.5mm of steel in the flywheel shoulder, not a lot of metal when you're using 10-tons of pressure. 8O 8O

I hope to add a photo soon....

regards

Taffy

bushmechanic · Jan 30, 2014

the generally accepted "correct" way to do a crank is cut the pin in half through the rod and push the 2 halves inwards, crank professionals claim this is the only way to ensure 100% correct support during pressing to avoid ovalising the pin bores... of course they are correct as any support thin enough to fit in there will flex somewhat.

Ive done plenty of cranks this way (cutting the pin) .. it really does make things easier and you can support the crank webs 100% square while you do the job

im not so sure it is all that important though and of course you loose the pin and the rod.

this is not an attack or a war just some info that might help someone... maybe even Taffy

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splitting the crank on a pre 2001

Taffy

bushmechanic

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