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Spliting crankcase on 05 650

Joined Jul 2005
8 Posts | 0+
The main bearings on my 05 FE650 may be on the way out as i found some swarf on the sump drain plug. (not much, about 4 or 5 fine splinters of magnetic material about 6mm long, + the usual black fluff)
The bike has done 105 hours mainly in tight stuff.
My question is. How difficult are the cases to split for someone who has a shed full of tools and usually does all his own work.
Are the bearings press fit to the crank.
Or should i stop being a tight arse and just get the shop to do it.
Does anyone know of an 05 650 service manual.
 
you've never said where you're from wabi? so where is it?

last time you spoke of 170KPH? on the road yet now you ride in the tight? am i missing something here?

all you need is the flywheel puller and perhaps the little bobbin to fit the cover over the waterpump shaft. i trust that you have ring compessors etc. it's a ***** to get bearings in and out of the cases so i would have the new roller/bvall mains pressed in mate.

you could do us all a grteat favour in return by having an engineer measure the items that i've mentioned in 'THE MAIN BEARING THREAD'.

run out on crank
housing id
crank journal od, how the mains went, etc etc

regards

Taffy
 
I'll be interested in hearing what you find also, I've had some some splinters here and there on the drain plug too along with the black stuff. I didn't plan on investigating it until winter or it got worse, whichever comes first.
Lou
 
I split the cases on my 2002 650, without much prior experience in engine work. Worked a lot on cars and bikes before but never any major engine work. I made some stupid mistakes, but in the end I got it back together and even got it to start, due to lack of time I have not completely finished the bike, thus I have not ridden it.

Do a search on my user name and you will find about a million topics, filled with desperate cries for help, wich the guys on this forum have helped me with every single one!
This forum combined with the service manual and the parts list will guide you through any problems when rebuilding.

Some tips and mistakes that i made:

- Use a proper fly wheel puller, and not a three arm puller, even tough there are three slots in the flywheel where the three arm puller fits in, use a proper puller, since apparantly these slots are for putting a three arm puller on the flywheel to lock the crank in TDC when setting the cam.
If you do use a three arm puller, this is what will happen:

206170799.jpg


- For actually splitting the cases and pressing out the crank Husa offers a special tool, I kinda copied it, it looks crude but works a whole lot better than trying to pry open the cases with a screw driver.

208633237.jpg


- Don't know if you are planning on removing the gearshift drum, but if you do, put it in neutral before disassambly and mark the drum and case so you know the right position when reassembling. I didn't do it, and had to assemble and split the cases a couple of times, trying different positions before I got it right.

- Do a search on this forum on axial play, or bearing float, this will give you a lot of info ont the crank axial float, wich according to very knowledgably people is one of the main reasons of main bearing failiure.

The last and most important tip, is when in doubt, use the search function on this site, about every single aspect of the Husa has been extensivly discussed on this forum. If you can't find it with the search, just ask (preferably with pictures) and someone will come along and help you!
 
Taffy said:
it's a ***** to get bearings in and out of the cases so i would have the new roller/bvall mains pressed in mate.

Taffy

I just heated up the cases for 25min to 200° and the bearing just fell out with a slight tap. I even had time enough to put the new ones in after I tapped out the old ones. They slid in easily just a little slight tapping needed to get them seated.

Used the wife's oven for this.

274405499.jpg
 

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