550 FE - Oil Change - Seize - HELP!!!!

My bearings are made for the balancers used up until 2006. nobody can even get the new bearings out. I'll say the same to you as I've always said to anyone involved and that is; 'please let me have the balancer, it's useless to you as it is and I'll try to get the bearing out but my wreck the thing.

as for your problem i would say that it is clear: you don't have enough axial float. look at the running wear on the inner race and you can see the rollers have only ever been tight against the inside shoulder.

I would check the crank for how true it runs and if perfect: go back to rollers. perfect is less than .001" of run out. I can check this for you. axial float wants to be about .45 to .55mm.

I would think your bore looks rough as well?

I'm here if you need it doing. 300quid usually. and you'll pay retail whatever you buy so that is all you'll save.

regards

Taffy

As far as i can tell the bike has done less than 1000miles. The engines certainly never been apart
THAT'S WHY IT HAPPENED PROBABLY
....and it looks as good as new. hmmmmmm. Maybe there were some tell tale signs of bearing casing in the last oil change before it was sold so it was cleaned up and got rid off.
I WOULDN'T BE TOO HARSH ON THE LAST OWNER. WHAT HIS EARS TOLD HIM THEY TOLD YOU.
Eitherway - i still need to get back to a working bike. so......

The bore looks fine, no scoring, chips, piston and rings look fine too.
YOU'RE LUCKY. MANY ARE PHEQED.
So the inner race has been pushed hard against the rollers which have scored it and cause it to break off.
THEY OSCILLATE A LITTLE AND BRAKE AT THE 6 OR 12 o CLOCK POSITION DUE TO IT GETTING A SQUEEZE ON.
I have a full metrology lab where i work, for measuring trueness is it a case of the ends in V-blocks and dti clocking it?
IT WON'T WORK TILL YOU MOUNT IT IN BEARINGS ON 'V' BLOCKS - THEN IT WORKS. I USE BALANCER BEARINGS. COULD BUY A PAIR OF 6906S YOURSELF
In terms of axial float - how is this measured?
VERNIER HEEL FROM THE FLYWHEEL SHOULDER DOWN TO THE RUBBER SEAL IS FINE. NO NEED TO RE-INVENT THE WHEEL.
If the crank has been acting like a battering ram against the rollers/races my worry would be without remedial work to the crank/bearing housing this would happen again.
PULL ANY SPACING SHIMS. SEE WHAT YOU GET. MOST OF THE TIME JUST REMOVING THE SHIMS IS ENOUGH - JUST
Would changing to a ball bearing remove the chance of this happening in another 800 miles.
YES. SO WOULD NOT STARTING IT. NOT RIDING IT.
Cheers
Rob[/quote]

regards

Taffy

Would changing to a ball bearing remove the chance of this happening in another 800 miles.
YES. SO WOULD NOT STARTING IT. NOT RIDING IT. BLAH! BLAH!

Brill brother..... absolutly brill. Got a point tho, running cost decrease with less use.... so does the fun factor. life is all about balance!

Lol!!!

our american friends would go apoplectic at that humour. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

regards

Taffy

what american friends? :twisted:

Taffy said:

My bearings are made for the balancers used up until 2006. nobody can even get the new bearings out. I'll say the same to you as I've always said to anyone involved and that is; 'please let me have the balancer, it's useless to you as it is and I'll try to get the bearing out but my wreck the thing.

Click to expand...

Sorry to reopen this thread,but I was wondering what actually has changed on the balancer bearings?
I checked a FE550 2007 manual,and the bearings seem the same as my 2005 model.
Did Husaberg an upgrade after 2007?And how reliable are these new balancer bearings?

you can't get them out. I've only had about 6 engines through my hands with these fitted and so far everyone has carried on and re-used the BB as is.

regards

Taffy

How do you change the bearings of the balancer then?
I noticed you sell grinded balancer bearings.

you don't! that is what we keep saying to you! they won't come out so you have to buy a new balancer.

my bearings are for the engines BEFORE.

Taffy