Splicing GPS units into loom

Hi all,

I have trawled the doc and the forums, but excuse me if I have glossed over it - the link in the doc takes me to the UHE home page again.

I am wondering if anyone can tell me the best place to splice in 2 x power supplies for GPS units on my '05 FE550, I am guessing that the wower consumption of the 2 garmin units will not be too much for the Berg charging / generator system, I am sure they will need DC only as they would normally come off the cig lighter in a vehicle.

I would prefer if the units power supply cuts off when the engine is cut, both units will revert to battery operation untill the engine is re-started - if not manually shut down first.

I am not opposed to setting up dual batteries if necessary, and would like to keep the fan circuit available incase I need to install a fan (AC anyway I think??)

Thanks in advance for any assistance

Cheers!
Azza.

Sorry,

Using a Garmin Nuvi 250 for street nav, and just working on getting hold of a Garmin etrex legend for offroad application.

if it sounds strange, the idea is to kit up with the street style gps to get me out of Sydney and into Perth, the other unit is to work out the offroad stuff in between. part of a big dream to cross the country.

Cheers!
Azza.

Awesome Davo, thanks, that is more or less what I thought would work, not sure on the amperage draw ? should rarely run the two together anyway.

Righto, onward to the dash box or frame to hold the units.

Cheers!

Azza.

Gentlemen,

Still on this project despite separation and custody battles for my two kids... what doesn't kill 'ya hey !

RE: '05 Berg, hoping one of the Safari riders or someone with a shop can assist...

So, still cant pick up a 12v active when the bike is fired up to maintain power to my 2 x GPS units.

Headlight plug has blue, green and brown wires, one is obviously neutral, the others are high & low, but each one works independent of the other, thus i seem to be able to pick up 12v on ingnition+high beam or ignition= low bean, but not constant.

Is there something im missing here? should i be coming off the parker lamp wiring?

this active circuit is to flick the relay only, I have the constant power feed sorted to power the units.

Eagerly awaiting a definite reply.

Shakedown ride - accross the rock - e to w Kangaroo Island on the weekend if all goes to plan - good news is that if it drains the battery, the bike kicks beautifully

Cheers!
Azza.

Thanks Guys,

Steve, the trip is on the back burner a bit, yet to see when it will happen, had springs from the UK fall through when they didnt arrive, which caused a couple of hundred dollars and time setback, but otherwise the bike is really close to being a goer.

On the GPS, I have gone with the yellow and brown under the headlight switch, these are on only when the bike is running and not subject to the switching of Hi & Low circuits at the lights. great news is that it does exactly what its meant to - auto fire up, auto cut off and this allows the internal batteries in the GPS to kick in and keep running or hold memory rather than reset. Bad news is its AC current, and the relay didnt like it (it chattered) so i've had to install a rectifier as well to compensate for that.

Should have it sorted today, and then i can turn my attention to getting my FC going again, after its exploding rear hub episode.

Ciao.
Azza.

okay Ladies and Gents... finally my opportunity to return something to the users of this site !

Here is the formula, perfect working GPS (aux) wiring on when engine is running, off when engine is off, by the way, this would work perfectly for anyone running thermo fans that has a problem with them running on after stopping the bike.

power circuit : pick it up from the thermo fan lead run it to wherever you want it to go, and branch one leg of the wires to the 30 and 87 terminals of a bosch normally open relay, one with a diode across the coil. the ends of that circuit are normally off until the switching circuit of the relay is activated.

Switching circuit: branch your switching wires from the yellow (active) and brown (earth) wires under the headlight switching block, the dual core wire will come out the left side of the switch block, where there is a convenient relief for a wire to come out (perfect !). run the wire to your clamps and install a 35w (four leg) bridge rectifier with your two (a.c. wires) from the switch block on the input side, and then run the output (d.c. current) neg and pos to the +86 and 85 terminals of the relay noting polarity.

Your power supply to GPS etc is now totally isolated, so no current leakage anywhere, and the switching circuit fires up your GPS as soon as you have kicked or thumbed the bike, and turns off when you kill the engine, which lets the GPS revert to internal batt power. my GPS's have auto power down in 20 secs when power is lost if you dont hit the 'stay on' button. either way, they maintain hot start mode, so when you fire up again, so it remembers where you are.

On top of this i upgraded my headlight from 35 / 35w to 55 / 60w... so all up im pretty stoked, and it all works great.

Azza.