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set up advice needed

Joined Jul 2011
57 Posts | 0+
south west UK
ok I've just fitted the correct rated springs to my 09 fe450, (4.6 front, 80nm rear), forks have new motul 5w oil with a 110mm airgap.

current clicker and preload settings are the standard out of the manual but with an extra 3 clicks of rebound each end.

I raced today and it seemed alot better on the big hits and when I was pushing hard, steering was good but it seemed to crash a bit into the square edged bumps feeling quite harsh front and rear.

Any suggestions on how to improve things ?
 
where are you wardy?

what type of track and conditions?

what do you weigh? skill level?

they have too strong face shims in the forks and are weak behind.

regards

Taffy
 
I have 4 turns or preload on my front fork,the compession is 17 out and the rebound is 18 with standard oil height and the fork in standard trims not to bad
 
Taffy said:
where are you wardy?

southwest, near Exeter

what type of track and conditions?

dry, and a bit choppy

what do you weigh? skill level?

15 stone, expert enduro

they have too strong face shims in the forks and are weak behind.

I have no idea what you mean !!!!

regards

Taffy
 
same build as me but you are a bit quicker!

they suffer from making you feel every 1" bump yet that pain in your wrists isn't a lot worse for say a sharp edged rock. so the first shims aren't deflecting enough and then the smaller 'back-up' shims that are meant to bend when even more pressure is exerted give in easily.

I run 48 front and 84 rear and whilst i reckon the rear is just about right an 86 would have been worth looking at for you and my 48s are really close to 50s. they come next and I weigh 204/14.7 so I would go 50s and 86 rear.

ultimately the shimstacks on the front are still out. the rear i find 'OK' s everything is happening at the front.

regards

Taffy
 
cheers taffy,

whats your advice on the shim stacks ? is it something I can do or should I just send the forks away for a revalve ?
 
I won't give away my shim stacks this time lads. I'm in business and there are some areas I just can't sorry. But UHE is a place of advice and what I can say i have... and honestly. All my shimstacks for the ol girl (2002 FE400e weighing nothing) are plastered everywhere in that 'fork tuning for enduros' thread.

My experience with K-tech (once) and Full-travel suspension (twice) is that all they do is go to the very latest valving they can find in the book so somewhere out there are some 48 OCs being used on a KTM or Husaberg in 2012 and they'll put exactly those shimstacks in. they'll be an improvement but if the factories build in a wayward fork they only seem to tackle it one shim at a time and to be honest the forks were miles off when I got them.

If you read my 'Taff's racing season 2011' for two Months ago you'll note that I went from being lapped last September for the first time ever, feeling finished and wasted to more or less winning in July. and all I did was work on my suspension - that was the only difference at all. both days were dry.

I did the springs first to suit my weight and then what is left is your valving and clickers plus of course handling. that is all I have to worry about. right now the suspension is great yet I use all the suspension up on fields on the front so I may look at 50s as said - you shouldn't make the valving do the work the springs should be doing - and vice -versa.

I find it a lot harder to feel the rear when the front is giving me grief but so far so good. the HSCD is only out 1/2 a turn the other two are near the middle. BTW Wardy, the rear spring at 84 is also pre-loaded about 9mm and it should and could be a bit less so i may well be close to 50 and 86 as well.

I find K-tech to be good. they do front springs to 46-48-50 and do quote the length BTW because the old springs were 48cm and these 12mm rod OC forks are 505mm. their rear spring at a guess will come O$£^&E in colour (I'm sorry lads but it's the burden we must carry) and they'll probably code them slightly differently at 85, 87.5, 90 etc etc so the 87.5 is the go-to spring. I'll be trying the pre-load on the forks set to maximum this weekend if needed and see what it does. I've done 6 different shimstacks this year and this weekend will teach me a lot again.

I do do fork and shock rebuilds, I've invested a lot of money in tooling up to do them. been doing shocks since the first of the year and forks (as in shimstacks etc) since 2005. these 12mm CR forks don't need the work of the old 14s. they needed lathe work, drilling, different bottoming cones, different float springs - the lot!

I guess springs, seals, fork oil, and a re-valve are going to be 160- 180 front and the rear? well, I don't recommend what i don't know about yet! I have got the 2012 FX and FE rear shim stacks for those that wanna get serious!

regards

Taffy
 
I'm not asking for any secrets, just the standard shim set up.
I do all my own suspension work and always have, as I'm the bloke riding it.

Although being a hydraulics engine an having a history in suspension set up help a little :wink:
 
nick790 said:
My bike kicks a bit.

What size and how many face shims are there?

Wardy said:
cheers taffy,

whats your advice on the shim stacks ? is it something I can do or should I just send the forks away for a revalve

Nick

I wasn't talking to you OK?

I've given you still the best advice I can. where's yours...

chill!

with regards the '09 thread i just went my own way with this and haven't copied any of the shim stacks. but it is a good thread and I see Cimwall is right into it now over at K-talk.

regards

Taffy
 
nick790 said:
I'm not asking for any secrets, just the standard shim set up.
I do all my own suspension work and always have, as I'm the bloke riding it.

Although being a hydraulics engineer and having a history in suspension set up helps a little :wink:

No problems :D

Just trying to cut corners and save myself time.

I'm always chilled buddy :p
 
Some info please, can you gun out the compression stack from the bottom of the fork without draining the oil?
I've not had much to do on them other than seals and oil change.
If you can invert them to make stack changes, is there a problem bleeding them afterwards?
:mrgreen:
 

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