Safari Front Tank install on FE570

backcountry · Jun 25, 2012

Hi guys. New here and have some stuff to contribute. Thanks for helping me with this issue.

2011 FE570 CA street legal
anyone installed a front Safari Tank? see my pics below.

1. the "fuel block" that you install on the stock tank interferes with the wiring harnress, and I can't force the stock tank in enough to bolt it all back together. It's very close but not right.I have wrestled with the wires, removed 2 smog hoses, and taken off the wiring strap. What do you do?

Can i just remove the whole smog system and cap the vent tube coming out of the engine? that would give me a little less mess to fit it all back together. (edit: I did this. haven't run the bike yet though, still in mid-epic with the tank install). Stock tank fit better without smog lines, but still NOT good.

2. My filler cap hole adapter that came with the tank won't go in without a hammer also. This can't be right. I ordered a new one. It should just push right in correct?

backcountry · Jun 30, 2012

so many issue with this safari front tank. Does anyone have experience installing one on a street legal 570 (or 390)?

Blaine · Jun 30, 2012

You can make a simple "wrench" to get that adapter out. Take a piece of strong metal, wider than the diameter of the adapter and a foot long to allow enough torque to be applied. Near one end, drill a hole in the center larger than the retaining bolt so that the wrench will slip over the retaining bolt on the adapter. Drill two more holes that line-up with two of the opposite holes in the adapter. Add two bolts of diameter just smaller than the holes in the adapter that will go into the two holes in the adapter, put lock nuts on the bolts. You now have a "Y" wrench that will fit over the adapter and remove it with no damage.

I did have a front tank on a 2011 FE450 that fit with no issues. I have since gone to the rear tank after all the hassles of having to remove the front tank each time the stock tank had to come off.

I also found Safari in Australia to be very helpful with questions or issues.

Cheers,

Blaine

backcountry · Jun 30, 2012

thanks for responding Blain. How does your tool exactly pull upwards? Twisting it is not the problem.

Can you answer my questions about fit?
1. my steering limiter bolts must be unscrewed all the way to contct the fork crown a lot earlier, reducing the turning radius. Otherwise the tank hits the fork tubes. Same deal on your bike? This is a show stopper for me.
My tank interferes with my headlight and key ignition bracket too, which I can solve and realize your bike doesn't even have those parts.

2. what did the gap look like on your bike between your seat and the side of the tank?

I have contacing Safari but they don't respond quickly, nor have they really answered any of my questions.
I wonder if I can get the rear tank to work with my lighting.

I also realize you didn't have the wiring to interfere with the rear fuel block. I've seen the tank on street legal bikes people posted online. Someone made this all work. I'm about to blow it up with M80's. Safari should be paying me $700 for all my hours trying to modify all this, with lacking instructions. I can't believe I paid $700 for this tank.

Blaine · Jul 1, 2012

Hey backcountry,

I cannot answer your fit questions. I sold the tank recently so cannot even pop it back on to check the fit.

I needed the tool to twist the adapter. I marked it up the first time with screwdriver, so there had to be another way. Once it was twisted counter clockwise, it was easy to lift out. There seems to be a great variation in the manufacture of these adapters and possibly variations in the tank opening.

The steering bolts are currently out a bit less than 3/4 inch. I have never touched them. The dealer may have extended them since they did the original install, but they are no longer around to ask. But they can definitely be turned in before anything hits the fork tubes. Will try that later to see how much that reduces the turn radius.

The fuel tap block that comes with the back tank is identical with the one that comes with the front tank so sounds like the same wiring fit issue.

Cheers,

Blaine

backcountry · Jul 2, 2012

Well I got the tank on. and off, and on... I'm damn good at removing the stock tank too at this point. I will amend my install advice when I get the bike running, which isn't today. Fixing all my kids bikes lately.

Outside of being frustrated with lack of information on this tank install, I am now a little more accepting of the mods I needed to do. And I am be well prepared to help someone else get their safari Tank installed in a few hours.

here are a few comments
1. it feels like my Ascerbis 3.2 tank on my YZ when you sit over it. Leg room and ergonomics are fine. I tossed the fat tank spacers they give you to bolt the rear tank brackets on. I got the wings of the tank a lot closer to the seat and the brackets stay tighter, smashed up against the plastic rectangle frame thingy that traps the tank down.

2. Safari did not return my emails or call me. Just gas tanks sold me the tank, and they are super nice. They have not installed this tank before, but sent me a new filler cap adapter to see if it would fit better. It fit worse unfortunatey. I did realize that when you gank up this aluminum filler adapter with pliers, file, dremel tool...it doesn't matter. None of that surface contacts anything, ever. Just keep the alluminum shavings in another room when your working with it.

3. I couldn't get my Enduro Enginnering Radiator Guards to fit with the Safari tank, but now I don't care. The frame and tank is super solid. Better than Rad guards even.

4. The tank interferes badly with turning radius for me. I turned out my steering limiters almost all the way out. I'm not sure how much that's really going to mattter, but I ride switchbacks all the time where you totally bump them around ever turn. The sides of my stock headlight rubs on the tank, but I got an X2. Not installed yet. My key ingition bracket hit the tank also. I found a spot to zip tie that elsewhere.

5. I don't think removing the tank is going to be more than an hour if I take this bike to an Enduro or Harescramble and want to just go stock tank. That's because I installed all this stuff though. A few times at this point.

heading off to Downiville again for singletrack extravaganza on my other bike tomorrow. I'll get this tank tested and change my pics around better to explain it all in a few days.

Blutor · Jul 2, 2012

I've fitted this tank this spring on my -12 FE570, and did the same as you with the rear bracket spacers, skipped them.
yes the turn radius got bigger because the tank builds up at front. its a shame but just lean the bike more :-D

I had no problem with the adapter in the filler hole, it's actually really loose, although I got a fuel leak problem with the o-ring that was too thin so I bought one that was 1mm thicker.

regarding the radiator guards, I had the power parts rad protection but it didn't fit with the safari brackets so I had to go without them.
on a two track road a rainy day in the forrest I fell to the ground due to a branch laying on the track at 45 degrees angle, the tank must have hit a rock or something because the rear right bracket turned into a Z in profile, the front bracket was bent rearwards and one row of the radiator cooling fins was pushed together.
I took a hammer and straightened the rear bracket into the right shape again, I didn't think that would work. the radiator is now twisted and pushed in but fully operational.

I had one problem in Albania now with the nut that hold the thread on the bottom of the adapter in the filler hole. its now in the bottom of the tank. use loctite 243 on that one

the rear fuel petcock that you now have on the standard tank was making a print in the cables, almost as a cut. I grinded the aluminiumpart of that until it had the same round shape as the petcock.

I'm gonna service the bike after Albania this week and will look for wear and tear after 1800 km of rocks

Blutor

backcountry · Jul 4, 2012

Got the tank on finally. next step getting my X2 headlight to fit with all the interfering wires.

I understand this Safari front tank design better now. The filler cap adapter that holds both together tight, could not leak unless gas is way up at that elevation in the tank. When you fill the tank, it would be nice to have a small portable funnel, so you can pour gas into the stock tank first. If you just pour it into the Safari tank, then that one will mostly fill up first. My stock tank plus Safari gives me over 4 gallons. If your going to put in only 2 gallons in, it would be nice if that gas was only in the stock tank to keep the weight in the center perhpas. I doubt you can feel it which tank the gas is in, inner or outer in reality.

oh, and the smog system I took out seems to have no effect on how the bike runs. I needed those 2 smog tubes outta there. I will definitely grind down the fuel block next time the tank is off as you suggested.

Blutor · Jul 4, 2012

first time when I mounted the tank it was a bitch, I had to use tie downs so the front screws would fit. but as I have used the tank it has formed it self in to the shape of the bike and is really easy to take on and off.

it reminds me that I glued the rubber washer that is between the tank and front bracket on the tank, so it will be easier to mount

jon andersson · Mar 30, 2013

I want to share my experience.
I installed a tank like this for the first time a few days ago. The fit was far from perfect so I had to bend the lower mount bracket and push the tank in place. As the fit was so bad I could never know when the tank sealed around the oem tank hole. I used the 13mm nut to squeeze them in place but it was very hard for me to know when they touched surfaces and sealed. I took it easy and though I was careful trying to see when the o-ring was in a tight fit. I didnt manage to so the result is I over torqued. At the time it all looked good with no leaks and I could force the other mounts on with some strong friendly force..

I came home yesterday and took the tank off as I need the bike in another constellation. When I put the oem cap on it was all loose. I had torqued so much that I pushed the oem tanks plastic locking mechanism up and changed it's shape. I was really annoyed with myself as I dont want to ruin my oem tank, they dont come cheap...

In my frustration and irritation I fixed the problem by shorting the grey plastic bit on the oem cap. I think I had to cut away ~7mm, and fix the locking mechanism for the new measurements. It seals again and the locking mechanism works, but **** I dont want to experience that again...

I know now how I should have done it, but I wanted to share this as someone else could do the same mistake.

DO NOT accept any tension when you install the safaritank with the adapter. Make sure the seal is even and nice before you tighten the 13mm nut as per the manual (which I read and followed). When that is in place, then mount the radiator bracket.
That was my mistake, the wings of the tank was lower than the radiator bracket so I forced the tank in shape resulting in too much tension on the oem tank from the adapter. I should have adjusted the radiator bracket to fit instead...

harikishan7 · Dec 9, 2013

I am having an issue with the safari front tank cross brace not lining up with the holes on the bottom of the tank. Only the left one lines up as seen in the pic below.

The right one is almost an inch off.

At this point all I did was to mount the fuel adapter in the main tank. I didnt even mount or screw the rear bracket mounts. So other than fuel adapter in the main tank,with the flat plate and the notched pate on top of it holding the safari tank there is nothing else holding the tank and the cross brace on the bottom is off by more than an inch. Did anyone had an issue with this ? I already had problems with the fuel adapter being too big ( JustGasTanks acknowledged that it is 1mm too big) and had to file and sand it quite a bit to even go into the main tank. This installation is really giving me a lot of trouble.

On another note, the safari tank lines up with the cross brace without the stock OEM tank. But with the stock OEM tank and the adapter inside it, the safari tank wont line up.

Rensho · Dec 9, 2013

My friend Jeff had the same issue with his FS570. He eventually had to make a bracket to bridge that 1" gap.

harikishan7 · Dec 9, 2013

That sucks. This tank costs 700$ and for all the issues with the fuel adapter being too big and the cross brace not aligning they ( Safari) should issue a refund. I spoke to JustGastanks from where I purchased the tank and they already acknowledged that that fuel adapter is 1mm too big, I am having this installed with a mechanic and already wasted a lot of hours/dollars installing this becoz of these bottlenecks because of the number of times he had to bolt and unbolt stuff.

zimi · Jul 8, 2014

I was thinking to buy this safari tank, tu use in addition with my 70 degree subframe tank for rally... But now I am really not sure anymore!!!

What about the rear safari tank? is it so hard to fit as well?

What experience do you have with the rear safari tank?

harikishan7 · Jul 9, 2014

zimi said:
I was thinking to buy this safari tank, tu use in addition with my 70 degree subframe tank for rally... But now I am really not sure anymore!!!

What about the rear safari tank? is it so hard to fit as well?

What experience do you have with the rear safari tank?

The safari tank install was problematic only with the US Spec FE570s (street legal) models. The rest of the versions elsewhere didnt seem to have this problem. So go ahead with your purchase and let us know if you have any problems. With a wealth of knowledge here you wont have any problem.

Gezwindespoed · Jul 10, 2014

zimi said:
What experience do you have with the rear safari tank?

The rear tank is a more simple setup. When you fill it completely it is pretty heavy especially in turns you feel the fuel slosh around. When you only have 5 liters in the rear it is oke. Almost 300km range.

crushing · Apr 5, 2016

Blutor said:
I had no problem with the adapter in the filler hole, it's actually really loose, although I got a fuel leak problem with the o-ring that was too thin so I bought one that was 1mm thicker.

Blutor

I'm trying to fit the front safari tank now on my fe390, but it's leaking at the adapter. What size o-ring did you get? Type of material?

In order to mount the tank, lots of force is need to bend the tank to meet the mounting points. I think this causes the adapter to lift out of the stock tank causing leaking. I'm stumped. Any advice?

Blutor · Apr 5, 2016

I bought all thicknesses they had at the rubber store. They sell bearings and drive belts for the industry. The material has to be nitrile rubber, it will stand against gasoline.

When my tank was new it did not fit very well. Problably warped due cooling or moulding process.

I used tie downs to pull it down towards the lower front bracket.
Then when I had topped the tank with fuel and left it for a few days it fitted like a glove.

I also skipped the rear round distance washer so the tank got more narrow.

It will leak at the filler neck if you lay the bike on its side.
Then you have to readjust the tank. Hellova annoying.
Sold it and bought a 70 degree subframe tank.
It has its faults too but is better.

harikishan7 · Apr 5, 2016

crushing said:
I'm trying to fit the front safari tank now on my fe390, but it's leaking at the adapter. What size o-ring did you get? Type of material?

In order to mount the tank, lots of force is need to bend the tank to meet the mounting points. I think this causes the adapter to lift out of the stock tank causing leaking. I'm stumped. Any advice?

I suggest not to bend the tank to meet the mounting points. I had the same problem where the mounting points didnt meet line up with the steel bracket and I wasted a lot of time of time & money with my mechanic before deciding to take the steel bracket to a muffler shop and had them weld a bracket on both sides. Just draw a small template before you hand it over to the welder and you should be good. You can then drill on the bracket and line up the holes. This is what I did and I have zero problems with leaks and often times I fill it up to the brim.

crushing · Apr 6, 2016

Blutor said:
I bought all thicknesses they had at the rubber store. They sell bearings and drive belts for the industry. The material has to be nitrile rubber, it will stand against gasoline.

I used tie downs to pull it down towards the lower front bracket.
Then when I had topped the tank with fuel and left it for a few days it fitted like a glove.

I also skipped the rear round distance washer so the tank got more narrow.

It will leak at the filler neck if you lay the bike on its side.
Then you have to readjust the tank. Hellova annoying.
Sold it and bought a 70 degree subframe tank.
It has its faults too but is better.

harikishan7 said:
I suggest not to bend the tank to meet the mounting points. I had the same problem where the mounting points didnt meet line up with the steel bracket and I wasted a lot of time of time & money with my mechanic before deciding to take the steel bracket to a muffler shop and had them weld a bracket on both sides. Just draw a small template before you hand it over to the welder and you should be good. You can then drill on the bracket and line up the holes. This is what I did and I have zero problems with leaks and often times I fill it up to the brim.

Blutor and harikishan - Thank you both so much for the quick response and tips. I will first try a thicker o-ring. If there's still leaking after mounting the tank on the brackets, I'll fill the tank for a few days to see if it conforms to the mounting points. If not, sounds like the smart option, but slightly spendy, is to extend the mounting points in the front and rear. IF all else fails, I'll have to find another way to carry fuel.

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