Replacement battery

I'll take the kickstart anyday, more reliable starting especially from cold (down to -10 celsius).

hooter said:

The battery box is sized perfectly to the original (expensive) Yuasa so none of the cheap brands will fit properly. So your best bet is probably to spend a little more money and get a Shorai lithium. You will save a bunch of weight and never have to worry if there's enough jam in the battery to spin the starter motor. As long as you don't drain it again of course...

Click to expand...

Every standard YTZ7S type battery will fit the box. So if you wanna go cheap you can buy one for 30 bucks from ebay.

Because of starting problems I tried both (cheap ebay and a LiFePO4/Super B) and both work good. Starting problem was the decompression lever on the camshaft.

No kicker on a 390

worstinfinland said:

Well I already ran it for a few rides without the battery, I had it on battery tender to see if it would come back alive (didnt).

Electrics work fine with just taking out the battery on the 04 and making sure the battery wires aren't exposed for sparky fun time.

Needs a capacitor so the headlight won't dim when over 4000rpm, look up battery eliminator on ebay, that is connected where battery used to.
If in need of electricity, lend it from headlight, or so I heard.

Also make sure that your headlight is off when starting the bike, took me half an hour wondering if my bike is broken or did I become a pussyfoot.

Click to expand...

Battery Eliminator Cafe Racer Street Tracker Norton Triumph BSA Lucas 2MC | eBay something like this????
And then you need capacitator to run lights+blanking plate...
?

Hi All,

Here in Aus I have purchased the SSB Lithium batteries both for my own bikes and those that I refurbish.

I read with interest the "advantages" of the lead acid battery and about the only one I can add is that they do a much better job at holding stuff down from blowing away in the shed(garage/workshop) because they are 3 to 4 times heavier than a Lithium.
First time I was posted an SSB battery I thought they had posted an empty casing by mistake THATS how light they are.
Also std FE450 550 and 650 batteries put out about 80-100 CCA and when old struggle to turn my 650 over. The lithium with 220 CCA packs double the punch with a third the weight and is supposed to last multiple times longer (yet to be tested) and doesn't run down as badly as lead acids when the bike sits for extended periods.
I remain amazed that people spend $750-$1200 for a full Ti system and part of most peoples justification is the weight saving (same pipe in stainless would flow exactly the same volume of exhaust right !) but wont stump up an extra $100 here in Aus for a LI battery that instantly saves 2 - 2.5kg......just f***ing amazing.
Here in AUS 113x85x70mm (I think they are) SSB branded Lithium batteries are $159 and lower CCA versions are available for $99- $109.
Specs below.
Oh just for the record I have NO affiliation at all with manufacturer or any distributor whatsoever I have just had a great run with 4 of their batteries.
PART NUMBER LH7L-BS
BATTERY TYPE: High Performance Lithium
VOLTAGE 12 Volts
CCAcold cranking amps) 220
AH (100hr):
DIMENSIONS
Length 113mm
Width 70mm
Height 85mm
Terminal Height 130mm
TERMINAL TYPE
J



TERMINAL ASSEMBLY
OTHER FEATURES
WEIGHT 0.6 KG
REGULAR CHARGE 1.5 Amps
MAX CHARGE Amps
USAGE Starting
WARRANTY
Private use

24 Months
Regards
anthonys4691

HusaBELGfs570 said:

Battery Eliminator Cafe Racer Street Tracker Norton Triumph BSA Lucas 2MC | eBay something like this????
And then you need capacitator to run lights+blanking plate...
?

Click to expand...

The capacitor acts like an temporary battery where the electric system can dump excess power and draw power when it needs it. It kind of evens out the electric power to the system. Similarly to a regular battery.

I did exactly the same thing as mate worstinfinland
I used 10000uF capacitor from audio amplifier.
I have no problem with headlights and blinkers.
I also don't need turn off the lights when I start the engine.

Capacitor I placed under the seat.

Somebody here posted the part nr for the starter cover / eliminator for 650 but been using google/search function on this site and I just can't find it anymore so anyone???
Thx

http://www.husaberg.com/uploads/media/ENGINE_FE_550-E_2007_01.pdf

Part number 80040034100

thx a lot!!!

FWIW I have had an Earth X in my FE650 now for just over 2 years since the original died.

Been fine so far and the extra cranking amps are nice

Only issue was that the original battery used to live on a CTek charger, the bike only gets a run monthly or so. But the charger isn't suited to the Lithiums so left it off. Seems there is some parasitic loss and the battery ran down over time. Pulling the main fuse sorted it. I've since fitted an ignition switch in series with the fuse which has 2 circuits, so kill switch too and no issues at all since. The additional level of security doesn't hurt either.





Switch is on LHS bar clamp.

I've also fitted an Earth X to my DR650 and its been fine too, although the first one supplied was defective. This means I'll no longer deal with that supplier here in Oz due to their incompetance.

A couple points about using lithium batteries in our bikes. ( I use a shorai and love it)

-lithium will die quickly if overcharged, via charger or your bike/stator
-do not use a charger that as a desulfator mode, or equalization mode
-when cold, lithiums have reduced voltage. you want to warm them by making them work, via running the lights or starter for a 1-3 seconds.
-lithiums have very low self discharge rate, so your bike doesn't even need to be hooked to a battery tender unless it has unusual system drain
-lithium can take 2-5x the number of charge cycles compared to regular lead acid battery

So! I bought a couple of 4-cell LiFePo4 packs from A123RC.com. Free shipping, $45 each. Shipping was not slow and everything arrived in one piece. Arrived fully charged. They weigh only 390 grams.

These, the 4s1p 26650 A123RC type: http://www.a123rc.com/goods-130-Mot...y+LiFePO4+A123+ANR26650M1A+12V+23AH+4S1P.html ... they carry a plastic-case version as well but those cost more to ship and I doubt the protection is worth it for a bike as they don't look all that waterproof. Am prepared to be wrong on that though.

The packs are simple but I'd say they're well made. Wire quality is good and the included Anderson-type connector is useful! (They put 50A-type connectors but after reading the Anderson connector datasheets you'd really want a 75A-type on bikes like ours as those connectors have a ~150A burst current rate.)

A 4-cell 4S1P pack should be enough to start any Husaberg. The stock Yuasa YT7ZS CCA battery has 130 CCA ("cold-cranking amperes"), while the 4S1P pack has 140 CCA. The 4-cells have less total capacity than the stock SLA - 2.3 Ah (ampere-hours) compared to 6 Ah - so slightly greater risk of running a flat battery if you forget to turn the lights off or have to start it repeatedly without any charging. (That said, I had some trouble with my carburator and had to hammer the battery - the voltage barely dropped, indicating plenty of charge.)

8-cell 4s2p will have double that CCA and Ah capacity (and weight and bulk) ... 12-cells triple.

I've only tried in my DR-Z so far but I'm quite happy. The pack is tiny so I dropped it into the airbox and removed the battery box. Weighed the Suzuki's battery box ... and ONLY THE BOX weighs about the same as the entire new LiFe battery

The handling difference is REALLY noticeable!!

The thing starts the Suzuki well too. Feels a slight bit different. Spins up sliiiiightly slower - not as abruptly - but still very vigourosly. Conversely the clocks come on even while the starter is spinning which iirc didn't happen with the lead battery. Seems like the current flow has sliiiiiiiightly more inertia - slightly! - but is more "massive" and sags less under load.


However!, the real test of the A123RC.com packs - whether they put good A123 cells in them - is how well they last. I'll write something up as I learn more.


If I were spending more on a LiFePO battery, I'd get an EarthX today. No doubt. A123 cells, fully sealed waterproof case, and a protection circuit that balances the cells and protects against undervoltage aka overdischarge. Got the A123RC packs as I'm strapped for cash and needed a battery. The A123RC packs shipped cost less than a lead battery around here!

nice one tourist !

i just got 4 of these and a 4 cell BMS will see how it goes



https://www.fasttech.com/products/1683801

I used to have the Yuassa batteries,which were good. In fact I remember one lasted 7 yrs, left the 550 sitting in the shed for 6 months, never touched it or charged it, it started the bike still.

Then got a cheaper brand name one, exactly the same.
It seemed to last well, infact it looked exactly the same, just different coloured plastic on it.
Performed well.
I then got onto a SSB Lithium battery off ebay for my latest bike. Much smaller and very light weight. In fact it is so light weight , the thin battery terminal wires with the bend in them , lift the battery up, ha ha.
Had that in there for 12 months ,no issues, don't think they lose much charge sitting in the shed either.
I am pretty convinced that the major battery manufacturers own or have ties in some of the cheaper labelled battery companies, they change the colour in the plastics mould , re sticker it , sell it cheaper.
That way they can target a different market.
Cheers,

bushmechanic said:

nice one tourist !

i just got 4 of these and a 4 cell BMS will see how it goes

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1683801

Click to expand...

Sweet!!, looks like a very nice useful size / capacity cell for bikes

- which BMS? got a link? haven't struck gold there yet thanks

wouldn't say its gold ..... does 60A, cheap ebay item, just have to make sure the over charge and over discharge limits are correct for you battery packs specs

would be nice to find a 200A one so we could run the starter current through it, im putting everything through the BMS except the starter main wire, the starter relay signal wire will go through the bms so it should be just as good




Battery Protection bms PCB Board w Balance for 4 Packs 12V 60A LiFePO4 Li Cell | eBay

Nice. interesting.!

Would be interesting to see how earthx do it .. surely it's based off a reference design from a bms chip mfr and an equivalent board hopefully out there somewhere

offhand - maybe even obtainable by swapping transistors for higher-current on that board?

fun to ponder

fwiw here's a 150A board: Protection Circuit Module (PCM) with Equilibrium Function for 4 cells (12.8V) LiFePO4 Battery Pack at 150A limited ... $150 :/ and afaik batteryspace.com aren't an expensive store in general

that said there is probably not that much need for current limiting anyway as you suggest - our bikes shouldn't toke so harshly upon the battery that it's needed - quite clever to stop the battery at undervoltage with the starter signal

I wonder if 150a is enough ?

some 300a solid state relays

Solid State Relays | Timer Relays | Waytek, Inc - Page 1 of 4



too expensive compared to earth x with one already inside it

Hi all,

Not sure you would need a BMS for A123 LiFePo4 batteries I haven`t used one and no problems at all, it is certainly necessary with some of the other battery chemistries as over charging them can cause fire.

What you also have to look at is how fast the batteries are designed to discharge and at what temperature, some may not discharge fast enough to turn an engine, or will fade with the higher temperature caused during operation.

We tried starting a Honda 929 with my 4 cell A123 LiFePo4 just last week, it
did the job easy but it got rather hot almost to hot to hold

I include a balancing circuit when I built my LiFePo4 battery and have a
the proper balance charger.