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Re:lowering the seat height

Joined Dec 2002
759 Posts | 0+
western NC
I posted something along this line before but it was lost.I have been kickstarting my Husaberg FE501 by putting my right foot on a milkcrate and kicking with my left.Works good but the big problem I have is with out the crate I can`t get enough leverage to start it.A while back I started the bike useing my right foot but after a while that will break the kickstand off {did that once not again}.Have any of you thought of a cost effective way to lower the seat height?This really crinping my ridding style.Any ideas,tips?Thanks P.S. The bike is doing fine and useing the crate starts in 3 to 5 kicks.
 
RE: seat height

Hi Bill,

First, great to hear that the bike's running good for you.

Second, if you're using a milk crate to start, I don't see how we can gain that kind of distance with just seat foam... How many inches do you need to gain to get back on terra firma whilst kicking?

My suggestion(barring installing a portable milk crate) would be to carry a tiedown with you(coil it up and bind it on the rear fender). Whenever you need to kick the bike, loop it around the nearest upright object(trees are handy), hook it on itself on the tree side, and hook the free side to your bike. This will allow you to stand on the bike and get it started and not have too much problem getting things back together to go.

thanks,
json
 
I took my bike on a short ride after I posted with the intention that when I got back I would try to start it with out using the crate.It restarted on the first kick.I really have to stretch to do this as I was on level ground not to mention the crate just a few feet away.I have my preload on the rear shock backed off as much as I can and I can not put my feet flat,the tips of my boots is what touches the ground.For me to to plant a foot I have to lean over.I will try that with the tie down good idea.Thanks and take care. P.S. I want to get a system that will work because the crate will not always be there. :lol:
 
Berger ( and other people that I know ) have had the suspension lowered. Shims/spacers are installed in the shock to prevent the shock from extending fully. The same is done to the forks, plus a different set of springs is used. I rode Berger's 'low rider' Husaberg, it performed fine.

Dick's Racing can do the mods for you

http://www.dicksracing.com
 
Hey Bill,
One of the things that helped me with my leverage problem was Dale Lineaweaver re-indexed my kick lever to a lower contact point. He
also changed my standard plug to an iridium fine wire. As I understand it the new plug allowed me to start the bike with a shorter kick, worked well for me. I allways kick with my right leg and try to find a log to stand on if
out on a trail, but the button useally bails me out.

Good luck

Phil
 
Hi Bill:
Json's idea works good. You must have something to lean it from (a Jeep works good). This is exactly what I do. If you have the 1 1/8" bars you will need something for the tie down strap to hold onto. I just leave these soft straps on at all times and carry a tie down with me. If you ride in thick woods it could be a problem though.
DSC00153.JPG

Dennis Kirk sells some eyelets that bolt onto the front fork leg pinch bolts which may work even better.
 
Thanks for the advice and tips.I have around 6 tiedowns so I will try one of those first.A regular length tiedown should work alright.I will see what I can dig up.I have 2 small tiedowns that might work when mounted.I will see what I can do for now.I would like to lower the bike but right now it will be just a dream.Thanks again and take care.
 
Hi Wildbill,
You say that "A while back I started the bike useing my right foot but after a while that will break the kickstand off {did that once not again}."

Are you refering to the kickstart shaft or the side stand when you talk about the kickstand?

Does your 501 have a magic button? My 650 has the electric boot which almost always works when the bike is warm but if/when it fails I kick and press the button simultaneously and then she fires right up.

Happy starting.
B
 
biggish said:
Hi Wildbill,
You say that "A while back I started the bike useing my right foot but after a while that will break the kickstand off {did that once not again}."

Are you refering to the kickstart shaft or the side stand when you talk about the kickstand?

Does your 501 have a magic button? My 650 has the electric boot which almost always works when the bike is warm but if/when it fails I kick and press the button simultaneously and then she fires right up.

Happy starting.
B
I was talking about the side stand.My old engine had the button but the bearings for it went bad{worn out}.I was using the side stand to help hold the bike up while kicking{doesn`t work to good,not made for it}.The engine I have now is kick start only and to me is way stronger than my old engine and lighter to boot :lol: .Sorry you misunderstood.I`m getting there.Take care.
 
Ah! OK.

Reason I asked is that I broke the kickstart shaft clean off a while back.
My FE650 (2001) now has about 9500km (what's that in miles? About 6000 I would guess) and now that the electric start is sorted it's a pleasure. I only really need to when it's cold 'cos that's when the sprague clutch just spins.
Perhaps you should consider a new husaberg with electric start :lol: !

Cheers
B
 
Hello Husabutt,

I've applied all the tricks!

I think the most critical are the valve clearances. Make sure everything else is right as well - like clean airfilter, jetting, spark plug, etc.

Then I have a good quality, larger capacity battery (Yuasa YTX7L-BS 7ah) mounted up under the seat and a decent earth strap directly to the starter motor support bracket. Have removed electrical spade connectors and soldered the connections where possible. I always charge my battery properly prior to going on a ride.
As I said previously, I always have to kick the beast into life at first then once the engine is warm the electric starter is about 90% reliable.
While riding I always engage neutral before starting so as to minimize the strain on the starter motor.
If/when the button doesn't do the trick then I kick and press the button simultaeneously - essentially kick to assist the starter - and it fires right up.

Hope this helps - unfortunately it's not new or revolutionary info...

Good luck & happy riding! :D
 
Hi Biggish:

Did you adapt a battery box from another bike or make it yourself. Some pictures of your set up would be great. If you ask json (schwim) for a gallery he will gladly accomodate you. Then link to your gallery or post the pics in a thread.

Thanks,
 
husabutt I rigged up something I hope will work.I found a couple of short ties to wrap around the upper fork tube and a long tie down to loop around a tree.I have not had a chance to try it{it rained} but all of this fits into a fairly small fanny pack.I looked in the dennis kirk catalogs for what you was talking about,the eyelets,couldn`t find them any where.I will try this first and see what happens.What do you do if there are no trees?Hope for the best. :) Take care.
 
Hi Bill:

Usually the first start of the day takes the most kicks for me. I tow a trailer so I just hook onto it on one of the tie down hooks. I don't race just trail ride and usually go in a group. Jeeps and big atv's are great for hanging off of. Once warmed up though I can usually start it in a kick or two and don't require something to hang off of. We really don't have many trees in the desert here so consider yourself lucky that you have so many things to hang from :)

I'll try to find the eyelet in my catalog for you and get a part number. I think I have some in the package. If I do I will take some pics.
 
biggish said:
I think the most critical are the valve clearances. Make sure everything else is right as well - like clean airfilter, jetting, spark plug, etc.

My bike always starts on the button, even when cold. I think the reason most people have trouble with starting is due to the valve clearances. One time, I had a hard starting problem, the valve clearance had closed to almost nil. The 1/3 turn trick is the ticket to easy starts. 1/8 turn is too tight.
 
Husabutt asked...
Did you adapt a battery box from another bike or make it yourself. Some pictures of your set up would be great.

Husabutt, I have the original battery box still. It has simply been relocated so that it can accomodate a taller battery.

I will take some pics and post them here as long as you promise not to scold me for not cleaning my bike with a toothbrush!!! :wink:
 
Hi Bill,
Sorry for the delay in my reply to your earlier IM.

I have on occasion and depending upon intended application reduced the seat height via reduced suspension travel and / or thinner seat foam.

I personaly do not require 12" of travel and prefer a lower overall ride height via engineered suspension upgrades.

For dirttrack and / or riders of small stature I have thinned down the seat foam and had custom covers created to accomodate , however, I quite honestly have found such to upset the ergonomics to the point of creating an ill handling motorcycle.

A suggestion would be to fabricate a well supported centerstand which tucks nicely into each frame rail allowing you to prop your bike up and start it while on the trail. Such could prove to be a worthwhile winter project.

Hope this helps.

Kind Regards,
Dale
 

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