Problem w. fork reassembly

Aspen · Dec 22, 2005

I have a problem reassembling the forks on my Ã‚Â´02.
Getting things apart, putting new seals etc wasnÃ‚Â´t too bad following the WP manual i downloaded here at UHE.

My problem is simply in tightening the comp valve assembly to 25NM. I get to about 0.5NM before the cartridge starts spinning. The manual doesnÃ‚Â´t speak of any special holding tool, nor can I invent one.

On disassembly you are supposed to grab the piston rod and "bend" it to the side creating enough friction to be able to loosen the comp valve assy. That worked out somewhat ok, but using the same method during assembly? Not a chance! Not even with a helper. DonÃ‚Â´t want to damage anything, so maybe I am being too careful? I kept the rod inserted not to deform it, but that gives me no leverage.
How do they do this in a production line?

Everything is clean and lubed, threads are 100%.

I am at a loss.

Really need some help on this one please.

wildbill · Dec 22, 2005

Is there anything on the bottom of the fork? A bolt, hex head something like that. Check there should be something.

Aspen · Dec 22, 2005

Nothing.
The comp valve assy screws into the cartridge and thatÃ‚Â´s it.
You canÃ‚Â´t see it since the cartridge is hidden inside the lower stainless steel tube. I am not talking about the comp adjuster, but the whole assembly which screws out the bottom using a 19mm socket.

Hard for me to explain, since IÃ‚Â´m no expert. A look at the WP manual explains it far better. These are the upside-down forks of Ã‚Â´02.

BendBerg · Dec 22, 2005

Aspen, do you have access to any air powered tools? Sometimes a quick shot with an air impact driver will get the job done. Also check motion-pro for any special tools that may be available. Good luck, hope this helps.

Taffy · Dec 22, 2005

aspen

it says you should bend the rod on re-tightening! not to untighten it.

it's STANDARDprocedure to continue rebuilding your forks with the comp stack pretty much in and left untightened, then when the springs are in and in the yokes, wheel in the lot you lower the bike and tighten them or you get a buddy to put downward pressure on the forks.

works every time fella so don't panic and NO it won't leak oil while-u-wait.

regards

Taffy

VIKING · Dec 22, 2005

Aspen this one you are going to need a impact gun 3/8 and preferably
none leadin socket because hex on bottom valve is very shallow and
easily rounded off simply put fork in softfaced wise by axle casting
insert cartridge center cartridge in axle casting screw in bottom valve
until cartridge starts spinning take impact gun and give gentle rattle
while gently bending cartridge / rod be careful 25Nm isnt much
Merry Xmas
VIKING

Aspen · Dec 23, 2005

UHE SAVES CHRISTMAS!
I knew you would come through! Thank you all!

Here is what I will do:

Since I feel using an impact gun seems, well, brutal, and probably requires the experience of what ~25NM "feels" like, I will try Taffys method first, still using a torque wrench.
I like having full control. Thanks Taffy.

If for some reason I still end up using a 3/8" impact gun, IÃ‚Â´ll be sure to get (or make) a flat faced (no lead-in) socket and for sure not a 12 point one. Thanks for that advice VIKING.

So, you probably saved me at least a VERY long drive to the nearest shop. But most important I learned without breaking something first.
Which in turn yet again proves why donating a few bucks to UHE is SO worth it!

I will report back with results after the holidays.

Thanks
Pete
.

Taffy · Dec 23, 2005

so where's my money!

only joking!

try it and let us know fella.

regards

Taffy

Aspen · Jan 7, 2006

Tried your method, Taffy. DidnÃ‚Â´t have a 100kg buddy handy, so I compressed the forks with a ratcheting cargo strap. I had to go almost all the way in before it held, but then it worked great. Thanks!

HereÃ‚Â´s a pic of my set-up:
Real easy to loose a finger upon release though. Hence the second blue strap...

MBS · Jan 7, 2006

I've had good luck placing the fork in a vice, put the spring in and applying pressure on it with one hand (pull it towards you) and use a cordless drill fitted with a socket with the other hand. The drill doesn't have enough torque to hurt anything. Use short burst with the drill to try to get enough friction to cinch it down.

One time this didn't work and I had to resort to an pneumatic impact wrench just to give it a quick jolt. Gotta be careful with the impact wrench though.

VIKING · Jan 7, 2006

Aspen glad I could help I am sure next time it will be easier

Per

Problem w. fork reassembly

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