fork problem

Husa98 · May 22, 2007

Thank you smorgasbord,

yesterday I began to read the thread "tuning forks for enduro" detailed.
I printed out the 59 pages and follows the discussion between taffy and viking as best as I can. Now IÃ‚Â´m in the middle of the thread...

Taffy,
with this look at the parts manual your 2002 fork has a checkvalve too.

6 4860.0062 2 2 2 2 2 2 Check valve ÃƒÂ¸ 8x24x0,1 -01,-02
6 4054.1414 2 2 2 2 2 2 Backpl. 6x8x0,10 -01,-02

You have changed it to a MV.
Wwith the 2002 tap rebound or is here a later version required?

Should I change to a MV or let the checkvalve in?
Should I do the tap rebound mod for better shim flex?

Now IÃ‚Â´m in hurry, but will be back an 2 pm...

regards..

Taffy · May 23, 2007

your tap from 2001 or 2002 is fine.

they have slightly changed the tap from that year. essentially, the shoulder around the tap is as high as the shoulder for the shims themselves on the tap's centre post. therefore, when a shim gets pushed back it hits the shoulder on the post of the tap as well as the circumference shoulder.

it is easiest to see in the photo of the ZP3 modified tap as the 'before' example!

it's entirely up to you whether you decide to copy what i and others have done. you will always get a spike though IF YOU DON'T MACHINE AWAY THE CIRCUMFERENCE RIM because the shim cannot 'arch it's back' and be fully open!

read the whole thread first!

regards

Taffy

Husa98 · May 23, 2007

The main question:
should I only change the shims
- like the original setting
- like the recommended setting

or should I do one or some updates.

It would be not clever, not to update when it makes sense.

example:

I have read anywhere in the threads a MV is better than the "old" checkvalve.

Demands a MV another tap??

And I hope the recommending (for example from smorgasbord) is ok WITHOUT other mods, the 5 mm hole drills maybe.

Taffy, I donÃ‚Â´t want to copy your settup blind.

I ride not only in the woods, (to risky, IÃ‚Â´m living near the national park)
I do a mix of mx track, enduro track.
This mix is also iin your crosscountryraces.

IÃ‚Â´m heavier and surely slower than you.

And I dont want to change the setting every weekend when I changed the track.

But I have fun with this hobby.

A regular setting for my weight and my driving is good enough for me.

But Im interessting in your and all the other experiences...

regards

Taffy · May 23, 2007

the difference between a mivalve and a check valve is that the MV shims are meant to flex and bend. with a check-valve, the idea is that the shims simply shunt across the float gap as you hit each bump. you could almost fit an ordinary washer there.

i have also posted thew difference in the needles from early to later models but again i didn't bother to change them - i didn't even bother to have them machined.

the taps can be modified easily in a lathe to either the later specs or the ZP3 specs but i can't help you 100% if i don't have a similar set up to you - others might but i can't!

you must try these settings yourself! i had my forks apart many times and would do it again. each time i did it i learnt something.

i would try a softer MV shimstack and take it one step at a time. remember that after you have changed the MV you still can play with the Bv for similar changes.

regards

Taffy

Husa98 · May 24, 2007

I have compared the parts manual again:

pieces for one leg.

2001: checkvalve:
1 piece 8x24x0.1

2001/02 the same:
1 piece 8x24x0.1

2003: MV:
1 piece 8x18x0.1
1 piece8x20x0.1
1 piece8x22x0.1
1 piece8x24x0.1

2004:
1 piece 8x18x0.1
1 piece8x20x0.1
1 piece8x22x0.1
4 piece8x24x0.1 very stiffer?

I habe 4 piece 8x24x

I think the 01/02 could not be right:
1 shim 0.1 as the controlvalve is to less.

so far.

I have to read the thread complete as taffy says...

ktmlew · May 24, 2007

This picture shows an 00-02 tap and a ZP3 modded tap.

http://www.husaberg.org/modules/gallery ... er_version

Taffy · May 24, 2007

Husa98 said:
I have compared the parts manual again:

pieces for one leg.

2001: checkvalve:
1 piece 8x24x0.1

2001/02 the same:
1 piece 8x24x0.1

2003: MV:
1 piece 8x18x0.1
1 piece8x20x0.1
1 piece8x22x0.1
1 piece8x24x0.1 (A PRINTERS ERROR I THINK. THIS WILL ALSO BE 4 X 24)

2004:
1 piece 8x18x0.1
1 piece8x20x0.1
1 piece8x22x0.1
4 piece8x24x0.1 very stiffer?

I haVe 4 piece 8 x 24 (DON'T FOLLOW HERE?)

I think the 01/02 could not be right:
1 shim 0.1 as the controlvalve is to less.

so far.

I have to read the thread complete as taffy says...

regards

Taffy

Smorgasbord · May 24, 2007

I had to modify my taps when converting from checkvalve to midvalve.
On the 2000 tap there was a checkvalve consisting of 4 off d8 D24 t0.1 mm shims. You are right.
You can see the pictures of what was done to the tap in my gallery or in Taffys Mega Thread "Fork tuning for enduros", they even show how it was done.
Eventhough another 3 shims were added to the MV and the face shim was replaced with a slightly thicker one, the fork became softer. I'm now considering adding even more shims or reducing the MV play from the present 1 mm to even less, like for instance to what ktmlew suggests, 0.7 mm or so. Alternatively keep riding it the way it is, to get a feeling for what next step would be the best. It feels like the rear is not up to it any longer, the shock might even be the next object of attension before anything else is done on the fork.
If you have left the fork problem and would like to discuss fork tuning I suggest that you move to the "Fork tuning for enduros" thread.

fork problem

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