Popped the cold start cherry tonight

LeFrog as I am a rank newbie I have yet to pop the cold start kickstart cherry on my berg or the hot start kickstart cherry for that matter... So i really appreciate that e-start (those nordic types are so thoughtful aren't they?)

It seems simple enough in theory but I guess there must be a bit of a knack. My 98' 600 berg has a semi-automatic decompressing mechanism is that right??.. So in 50 word or less, what is the technique or the knack for small guys? I wore myself out last time I tried...

You ought to try kick starting one. My bike is kickstart only and I can ususally start it it in 3-4 kicks. That is full kicks. I`am not a big person 5`8" and maybe a 190lbs with a 6 or 12 pack of cold beer in me. But with a good pair of mx boots and I take my time it starts. Of course with 12 pack in me then I don`t care one way or the other. What I`am saying is e-start is nice but you need to be able to kick start too. Because sooner or later with all bikes you will have too. Hope I didn`t rain on your parade. Take care. When hot it tends to start with one kick.

LeFrog said:

Yes. I know. And this bike will not start properly anyway until the battery issue is fixed. And it's a 2001. This one will not e-start when cold and even when hot.

It does not charge up, only when connected to the Optimate charger. Running the bike does not charge it, neither does a battery tender.

It is a YTZ7S which is supposed to be new, but I really wonder.

Tomorrow I will put a brand new battery and I'll see.

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Sounds like you have a loose conection somewhere. I would check all of that first. That is one of the reasons why I went to kickstart only. When it starts that is nice but when it doesn`t is what I don`t care about. Seems to me, it might be in my head, but a e-start is harder to kickstart when you are used to e-start. Like what I said might be all in your head. You know what I mean.

LeFrog said:

I am trying to decide what I should sort out first: the electrical or my what's in my head... :?:

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My old engine had e-start and most of the time it was a dirty connection or bad ground.Just takes time to track it down, not that bad. Use some fine sandpaper and polish the connections good,spray with WD-40 and make sure they are tight. Should do the trick. It`s nothing major just takes a little TLC and some time. After that it is in your head . Good luck and have fun.

Nick, Nick, Nick aka Lefrog:

You have been poking around here since before the Moab event and should know by now that the 01's don't e-start for beans! So much has been written about starters and autodecompressors. Enough to fill up an encyclopedia.

01's don't e-start for #!@%
02's a little better
03's almost there
04's bingo
05's = e-start nirvana

I was hoping that when "Boss" did Bendberg's 470 with the 05 cam, cam sprocket, autodecompression device and cam chain we would know if that was the fix which would be the most beneficial for e-starting on 01-03's. But nooooo.................... Bendberg's bike is a non e-start model.......crap (did I say that).

Sooooo...............Your battery is probably running down fast because its working way too hard against the compression and will probably only go for 3-4 minutes until drained. If the Optimate says the YTZ is fully charged you can bet it is. YTZ's are major kick *** batteries so don't be thinking it must be the friggin battery because I can easily fix that.

Look to your autodecompression device

The Husaberg community is a relatively small one and everyone has their own idea of how to get these 01-03's things to e-start better. But the consensus is:

1. Replace your stock autodecompression device with a new one. OR

2. Weld a small blob onto yor existing autodecompression device. OR

3. Replace with a 03 650 autodecompression device.

Along with:

A 04-05 550-650 starter and bracket to really update the heck out of your bike.

OR

Try the 05 parts listed above with or without the 04-05 550-650 starter and bracket and be the site hero

Written just slightly tongue-in-cheek

Nick:

If the lights were flickering at low RPM's the battery has nothing to do with it. Some bikes run AC power to the lights and some DC off/from the battery. The lights flickering means that you have AC power to the headlamp.

I still maintain that the battery is being seriously run down during starting which is giving you the impression that the battery is bad.

i agree with husabutt. you probably have a good battery. it takes a few miles for the battery to be charged right up and ready to start the bike.

for two seasons now i've had a 400 that doesn't start on the button because the sprague runs through. this is said to be due to me running fully synthetic.

but as soon as i'm a couple of miles into a race i can hit the button and the battery is so strong (husabutt...!) that it starts the bike and that's even though i have no decompressor on the cam!

so if your battery is good, the sprague still works, then it should start warm.

conclusion; you need to go through it like i do above, then, if it doesn't start on the button look at whether you have a full charge going in.

the other thing nick is that there is a technique to starting all bikes. you have a four year old dell orto carb there so it is getting worn...think about changing the atomizer, MJ, PJ, needle. check the slide for wear.

how old is your plug?

yesterday, i had several riders stood around the husey checking out the stuff i'd done to it. i kickstarted it first time with no throttle. i have a very low tickover. even i was impressed-that's a gooooood feeling inside!

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

.............for two seasons now i've had a 400 that doesn't start on the button because the sprague runs through. this is said to be due to me running fully synthetic............
Taffy

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taffy;
excuse my ignorance but i dont quite get what you are saying about the sprags being run thru.
also, are you sure that the full synthetic cause the problem?
thanks in advance.
tuts.

Taffy:

With all due respect as your technical acumen is light years ahead of mine, however:

Your bike is a 02 400, a teeny tiny 400 (no disrepect intended, don't get mad), that may be a little more than a tad bit low on compression. Nick's is a 501. I would venture to say that Nick's bike is putting out way more compression than yours and would barely turn over if the autodecompression device was removed from his bike.

Nick stated earlier that he will be replacing the battery with a new one. $80+ for a new YTZ. A new decompression device is less than that :wink: .

Nick be sure to fully charge the battery before installation with an Optimate III charger as the battery may not ever accept a full charge again due to battery memory. If you have a voltmeter 13.5 volts is fully charged for that battery.

Why do I get the feeling that a dual battery setup thread in on the horizon :lol:

Nick, The battery in your bike was put in new the week of Moab and kept on a battery tender at all times it was not being ridden except when in Moab. I think that trying to start the bike over and over with out running long enough tho charge the battery may be part of the problem. My last battery was the same model and make and lasted me for two years. I never even try to start the bike with the button until warmed for at least 20 minutes and after a break say for lunch I kicked it to start. Remember it is a RESTARTER. Once you get the drill down you will not have as much trouble starting. A new decomp BLOB would probably help but it was never an issue for me. Sorry you are having trouble starting the bike but I hope it is fun for you once going. It doesn't start as easy as the DRZ but then again it weighs 60 lbs less

agree with bob, agree with husabutt. nick-get your arse in gear man!

c'mon let me see ya shake a tail feather!

tuts
obviously i spend a little bit too long hangin around here so i see these things but...

for some reason the synthetic oil makes the sprague spin through instead of gripping. i'm sure you know the sound AND the feeling when it does!

ahahaha-waaaaaaah! etc etc

apperantly ordinary oils allow the sprague to grip.

regards

Taffy

Hey guys,

I'm curious here...

anyone got a pic on here of a decompressor with the "blob" welded on? Possibly a close up? My feable brain is trying to picture the blob, but can't. Not to sound like a peckerhead, but a "welded blob" has so many different meanings and visuals in my mind (and one of them is a some wierd lookin comic book character!)

-Parsko

LeFrog , I hear You. I kick start all the time my 650. E-start twice in the woods.... It is great way to start it, and boots do matter.
Lights flickering means that there is something other wrong there, but it does not bother (only if You ride a lot in the dark it will be a pain), and ofcourse the battery will not charge at all....
I do charge a bit mine , as much to sometimes successfully E-started it---

Anyway gongrats and happy trails in Beautiful Arizona ...