Photos of a new/old project.

Thomas, Have you measured the combustion chamber volume? to work out your static compression ratio. Thanks for sharing. spanner.

spanner said:

Thomas, Have you measured the combustion chamber volume? to work out your static compression ratio. Thanks for sharing. spanner.

Click to expand...

No.
This is done by a friend who replaces the valves and seats, he is well known in the Tuner comunity, so we just use what he makes for us.

enginehardware ,couple more questions for you, if i could please.
Q1/elko pistons,are they only available through husaberg genuine parts or can you get them elsewhere?why i ask is that, down here in aust the genuine husaberg piston are over$800. yet we can get a wossner for just over $300.
Q2/the titanium blank valves that you show in your previous picture,can you tell us where you get them from and what brand?
Q3/ how is the lasting qualities of these valves? comparing it to bikes that have titanium valves as std equipment,from a personal experience for example the crf intakes flog out in no time,where as the yamaha valves last a reasonable life.
thanks again for the advise on supporting the main bearings,works good,faultless.
..weed..

i was quoted $ 470.00 for a genuine hussaberg piston .

popup said:

enginehardware ,couple more questions for you, if i could please.
Q1/elko pistons,are they only available through husaberg genuine parts or can you get them elsewhere?why i ask is that, down here in aust the genuine husaberg piston are over$800. yet we can get a wossner for just over $300.
Q2/the titanium blank valves that you show in your previous picture,can you tell us where you get them from and what brand?
Q3/ how is the lasting qualities of these valves? comparing it to bikes that have titanium valves as std equipment,from a personal experience for example the crf intakes flog out in no time,where as the yamaha valves last a reasonable life.
thanks again for the advise on supporting the main bearings,works good,faultless.
..weed..

Click to expand...

Q1: Husaberg OEM, last time i bought some we paid 2900SEK incl VAT. approx 280Euro.
Q2: Have to check when i come home on friday.
Q3: We have run the 40mm intake valves all year 2007, approx 40hrs at the race track.

You can get all these parts from us, we shipp worldwide, sold some carbon wheels to Australia last year.

Regards
Thomas

popup said:

enginehardware ,couple more questions for you, if i could please.
Q1/elko pistons,are they only available through husaberg genuine parts or can you get them elsewhere?why i ask is that, down here in aust the genuine husaberg piston are over$800. yet we can get a wossner for just over $300.
Q2/the titanium blank valves that you show in your previous picture,can you tell us where you get them from and what brand?
Q3/ how is the lasting qualities of these valves? comparing it to bikes that have titanium valves as std equipment,from a personal experience for example the crf intakes flog out in no time,where as the yamaha valves last a reasonable life.
thanks again for the advise on supporting the main bearings,works good,faultless.
..weed..

Click to expand...

Main bearings support: works good, we opened one engine last week with this system and it have been running all year so we will continue with the spacer/shimm.
//Thomas

hi there all you berg people.
i was just looking at the photo of the piston squish,which got me thinking...
how do you adjust the piston squish to .8mm?
correct me if i'm wrong but the piston squish is the distance between the top of the piston & the bottom face of the head/combustion chamber.

for example on a 2003 650 the piston comes to 2mm below deck height at t.d.c,then the head gasket is 1.4mm thick.does this mean that the piston squish is 3.4mm?

if i'm right in saying this . does that mean you are machining the top of the cases & liner,which brings the top of the piston up so it protrudes past the top of the cases .6mm(to get .8mm squish)1.4 mm head gasket-.6mm protrusion =.8mm piston squish.....correct?...

if that is correct , then you will have problems with the cam chain being out of adjustment ,because of the shorter distance between the cam & the bottom sprocket.

i'm not really interested in doing any of this, cause my old girl goes ok the way it is ,but i haven't got it quite clear in my head what you have done.
..weed..

longer rod or taller piston, is my guess.

spanner said:

longer rod or taller piston, is my guess.

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Its a 670cc engine its written earlier, If he use the 135mm rod (03-04) the piston height is flush with the liner Oem. if he use a 134mm rod 02 then it will be 1mm under deckheight. If he uses a 04 or later piston, He have made a offset 1,5 mm crankpin to make the stroke to 85mm, That way the piston gonna stickup over the liner. Then he can take the piston down to what squishheight he want.
Regards

swedishsteel said:

spanner said:

longer rod or taller piston, is my guess.

Click to expand...

Its a 670cc engine its written earlier, If he use the 135mm rod (03-04) the piston height is flush with the liner Oem. if he use a 134mm rod 02 then it will be 1mm under deckheight. If he uses a 04 or later piston, He have made a offset 1,5 mm crankpin to make the stroke to 85mm, That way the piston gonna stickup over the liner. Then he can take the piston down to what squishheight he want.
Regards

Click to expand...

Correct, could not have said it better myself.
We use the 135mm rod.
We have recieved some pistons that is taller from pin and up, or we use the Elko piston.
We have made our own headgaskets in thin soft aluminium.
regards
Thomas