Penrite 10W 70 Full Synthetic

has the penrite got the right code to use with clutches? If so I like the sound of it!! The 10 will make starting easy using the electric and the 70 will protect things when life gets hot, but as long is it is a fully serious oil. I cannot imagine it is cheaper than Moterex with that spread of viscosity?

I believe the JASO is what your looking for. As far as I know that is kind of motorcycle wet clutch specific.

you need to make sure it's not friction modified cos' most synthetic car oils are & if this one is it will destroy your clutch! read the bottle carefully even phone penrite there number is on the bottle.

cheers

If it's oil for motorcycles and its the right viscosity (or better) then recommenced and full synth you can't do wrong

just looked on the penrite website & if it was my bike i would not use it cos' it is a car oil & friction modified. just my 2 cents.

Wouldnt run a 10/70 oil in my bike since from what ive read an oil with a shorter span like a 15/40 is better within its range then a oil with a bigger span.

Sorry but that's wrong, its best to keep the first number (I don't know it in English) as low as possible and the last number as high as possible. The first number is the thickness of your oil when its cold and the last the thickness when it's in use (hot). But if it's not necessary to have the very good racing oil (sometimes 0W60 even) I wouldn't buy it because it costs a fortune. It's best to buy the oil the is recommenced (doens't have to be that specific mark) or a little better.

SNAiL said:

Wouldnt run a 10/70 oil in my bike since from what ive read an oil with a shorter span like a 15/40 is better within its range then a oil with a bigger span.

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i'm with you on this i run penzoil 10-30w mineral and dump it every 3 rides,never had any problems. 10-70w is for an older engine that is a bit tired(is say's this on there website also)

I run Penrite Sin 5, 5/60W in my FE400 with a rekluse clutch and no problems.
Dan

The first number 10W, or 10 "winters" is a measurement of how the oil flows at 0 C or 32F if I am not mistaken.

The second number like in this case 70, has to do with the shear strength at what ever high temp it has been tested at. This is accomplished through the use of polymers, which are kind of like little spider looking thingies that expand with heat, and act to increase the viscosity of a given oil.

Thus, in a common modern multigrade oils you can have the Winters number low for cold start ups, and good fuel economy, and the polymers, as they expand when heated, protect the motor when hot like a higher viscosity oil.

The only problem with these polymers, is that b/c of the nature of a typical non divorced oil system, is that the polymers tend to get sheared in half if you will, ergo, the higher viscosity number is lessened over time.

There is a good overall explanation here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Multi-grade

Also, try going to the AMS oil website and have a look at their testing page. Of course AMS oil is coming out on top of all these tests, but, it gives one an idea of how oils are tested to determine what is what. http://www.amsoil.com/index.aspx

I'm sure Penrite is a good oil.

Oil with 5/60 or 5/50 will be just fine if you run enduro in Death Valley and during same
tour end up at in Antarctica. Not likely...

Multigrade oil (5/50) with large span are like water. At least if you compare with (10/40). Better to use oil with less span, matched to temperature in your riding area.
I believe the lubrication will be better.

Since we all change oil every 5-10h, change of viscosity depending on season can't be a problem. And best of all, its cheaper...

the penrite 10w 70 is jaso certified i used it in my 05 650 and it ran the best out of all the oils i have used makes the gbox nice and smooth im even running it in my new Dorsoduro
cheers matt