Overheated..

A

AtomicPunk

Joined Mar 2004

58 Posts | 0+

Templeton, MA

Discussion Starter
• Jul 15, 2004

• #1

Last night I took the 'berg out for a quick ride only to end up pushing it home.

The bike only has about 8 hours on it and when I stopped along a trail to move a branch, the 'berg became engulfed in a cloud of steam.

I ended up pushing it home 3 miles or so thru the woods cursing the whole way.

When I finally got home (minus a few pints of blood due to some sweet mosquito bites) I checked the radiator only to find it empty. I had checked it the night before my ride and it was full.

After letting it cool down (me too) I drained the oil (which was fine - not "milky" at all) pressure washed the bike, refilled the radiator & started the bike w/o incident..1st kick.

No obvious signs of a leaking gasket.

I let it run for 5 minutes sitting and then rode it around the yard for 20 minutes or so with no problems.

So, any ideas what may be the culprit?

Thanks!

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 773+

Ely, England

• Jul 15, 2004

• #2

they had ignition trouble with them last yeqar and it shows in boiling-overheating. try calling SR off-road. mick knows all about it.

another way to see if it's head gasket is to start it with the lid off and look for tiny 'aero' bubbles.

Taffy

 

A

AtomicPunk

Joined Mar 2004

58 Posts | 0+

Templeton, MA

Discussion Starter
• Jul 15, 2004

• #3

Thanks Taffy!

 

T

t-jet-tim

Joined Jan 2004

695 Posts | 0+

USA

• Jul 15, 2004

• #4

Try a new cap,preferably one with a
higher pressure rating.My berg gets
a little warm in the High mode,as long
as I run the ignition in low,it runs cool.

 

A

AtomicPunk

Joined Mar 2004

58 Posts | 0+

Templeton, MA

Discussion Starter
• Jul 17, 2004

• #5

Well, after reflling the coolant the bike has been acting normally. No tell-tale bubbles or leaks. Ordering a new radiator cap & will call about the electrical next week. Right now, it's time for a ride!!

Thanks for your suggestions!!

 

Splat

Joined Dec 2003

587 Posts | 2+

Where ever we park the motorhome, USA

• Jul 19, 2004

• #6

My 501 used to get very hot while idling and riding slow technical trails. I richened the pilot jet and the overheating problems went away. I changed from a 35 to a 48 pilot. Check the topic posted about the dyno runs, he also went from a 35 to over fifty on his pilot. The bikes are excessively lean on the pilot as shipped from the factory.

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 773+

Ely, England

• Jul 20, 2004

• #7

these bikes run best with an N, P or Q needle straight. if you have overheating and you cured it with a far larger PJ then your needle straight is too lean (large) and you maybe ran an R or S?

but a 50 PJ is wrong!

Taffy

 

Splat

Joined Dec 2003

587 Posts | 2+

Where ever we park the motorhome, USA

• Jul 20, 2004

• #8

My midrange or half throttle performance was fine. Definitely not too lean on the needle or needle jet. In fact, with the stock pilot jet, I couldn't get the engine to run rough by turning out the idle mixture screw. The pilot was too lean. Now the pilot is a little rich, but our ambient is 112F in the shade. The bike runs great, the idle screw is 1/4 turn out. When the temps drop to the 90's, I will be right on with this pilot.

You can't argue with the dyno charts and Oxygen analyzer chart. He was over 17:1 with his 38 pilot. Way too lean. He posted that he changed to a 50 something pilot and his engine runs great.

Keep in mind, on your side of the pond, the humidity is much more a factor. Damp weather requires a leaner jet due to moisture displacing the oxygen. What's your elevation, Taffy?

 

7

70marlin

Joined Sep 2003

312 Posts | 0+

02FX470E with fe light Kit. USA, MI

• Jul 21, 2004

• #9

Keep an eye on your water pump seal. Mine had a very slight leak.

 

F

fryguy

Joined Oct 2002

1K Posts | 3+

Brooks, AB

• Jul 21, 2004

• #10

Taffy

Can you elaborate about the ignition trouble. Our bikes genarally always boil at this time of year, mostly due to altitude, load, ground speed (or lack of it) ambient temp and humidity. We work them hard in tight trees up high, so the resulting low speeds while working the engine generates huge heat, boiling the fuel even. The fuel gets hot despite covering the bottom of the tank with furnace tape.

My bike was a used demo, 2003 fe 501e which was raced last year Dan Watt. He had trouble with it boiling during a race when it shouldn't have. The cap was faulty. But he claims for as hard as he worked the bike and when he returned home to find the cooling system dry, you cannot heat seize these engines. At least in enduro situations anyway. I will attest to this as on Sat we had a nasty high alt ride where problably 30 or our 45 km ride were ran with little or no coolant.

I am curious what your thoughts were on the ignition causes.

fryguy

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 773+

Ely, England

• Jul 21, 2004

• #11

don't know a lot more really. this year they are blaming the unit up under the seat, last year i think it was the SEM's but i really can't be sure.

Taffy

 

S

Supermoto_Husaberg

Joined Oct 2003

188 Posts | 0+

Hampshire, UK

• Jul 21, 2004

• #12

Don't sit around with your bike ticking over it will over heat very quickly..

Especially if u are riding through the woods etc.

The steam will come out the valve pipe.

Bergs don't have radiator fans, it would be good if someone had an aftermarket setup.

Lloyd

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 773+

Ely, England

• Jul 21, 2004

• #13

I'VE FOUND THAT IF YOU CAN PULL THE TANK OFF AND WASH THROUGH FROM BEHIND THE RADIATOR - IT HELPS!

Taffy

 

A

adam85

Joined Feb 2003

17 Posts | 0+

Brisbane AUS

• Jul 21, 2004

• #14

Splat said:

My midrange or half throttle performance was fine. Definitely not too lean on the needle or needle jet. In fact, with the stock pilot jet, I couldn't get the engine to run rough by turning out the idle mixture screw. The pilot was too lean. Now the pilot is a little rich, but our ambient is 112F in the shade. The bike runs great, the idle screw is 1/4 turn out. When the temps drop to the 90's, I will be right on with this pilot.

You can't argue with the dyno charts and Oxygen analyzer chart. He was over 17:1 with his 38 pilot. Way too lean. He posted that he changed to a 50 something pilot and his engine runs great.

Keep in mind, on your side of the pond, the humidity is much more a factor. Damp weather requires a leaner jet due to moisture displacing the oxygen. What's your elevation, Taffy?

Click to expand...

It was me who posted about dyno runs on my 650, and just to clarify,
it had a 35 pilot and I tried a 56 pilot as that was the only larger jet I had.
I agree it is probably too big and I will maybe try a 40 or 45. I didn't
re-run the bike on the dyno with this 56, but it does run much better,
indicating that it was too lean.

Adam

 

Taffy

Joined Nov 2001

17K Posts | 773+

Ely, England

• Jul 21, 2004

• #15

each PJ has a correct pilot air jet to go with it. whilst you change the PJ you aren't changing the PAJ.

this means you get a graph of rich/lean that looks like a wiper blade curve off your car screen.

if you run a #100 PAJ you need about a #42 PJ to get the ratio right. so a 35 was mega lean and a 56 was mega rich!

that's why everyone buys a PAScrew and adjusts it - so that the job is done properly and not by mickey F..... mouse!

Taffy