ok I'm getting PISSED

I thought I had the bike running ok after installing Dale's kit then discovering it was too lean and going to a 162 main and 5th clip setting. I swear i rode the bike around my block and it ran good.

Now a week later I take the bike into MotoXotica and have Dan's mechanic show me how to adjust the valves. he claims my valves are really loose. I feel em and try to get a feeler gauge under them, but maybe its 0.007 maybe 0.005 don't know, Dan's mechanic who owns a berg too convinces me they are way loose and that's typical of Bergs to get loose not tight. So he adjusts my valves using the 1/8 turn method..........and tells me feel em.THEY are now WAY tighter now WAY tighter..he says thats better and even 0.002 is good.

we go to start the bike it runs crappy starts hard................he then asks mes me waht did I do to the jetting? WHAT THE f............? i GET HOME AND THE bike runs like crap, dies when comes to a stop, boggy.......wont run....starts/ stops......pure ****.

I'm sick I try to do right. I take the bike to the Jeetting GURU then I take the bike to a MECHANIC and now I have ****.


so as i try to calm down, my question..........should I assume maybe I have the bike too rich and change the clip one........or could it be that the major different change in the valves settings tonight from like more then 1/4 turn down to 1/8 turn has shocked my bike into running crappy?????

is it the valves are TOO tight now or the jetting went haywire? or what the F is wrong with my new bike??????? did someone put sugar in the tank?

I am getting PISSED.

i can understand your frustration, believe me :x

never do modifications..........if the bike runs, leave it alone.....ifr the bike starts, then the valves are fine......

I am completely loss.

NOT blaming anyone, but I can not sort this out. I need to take this bike to Toyota and tell them fix it.

i did my valves recently, slight drag on the feeler gauge at 0.004 it runs fine
dont give up

OK Bob....take a deep breath.....hold it......now gently exhale......good, now repeat. Feeling better??? Good!!
I think for your own sanity, you should recheck your valve adjustment. I would suggest removing the radiator (even though it is not necessary) so that you have plenty of room to work as well as see what you are doing. try the 1/8 th turn method, but recheck it with the feeler guage .004-.005 is good, anything else is not acceptable. Do not compromise and dont quit untill you get it right. It might take and hour and a half but it will be time well spent.
I used to adjust my valves at intervals (every 10 hours), now I do it as needed. Now that the motor is broken in, you may not have to adjust them for awhile. If it aint broke dont fix it.

BB,

Sounds to me like there is a chunk of pencil in the combustion chamber :lol:

I installed a fresh oiled clean air filter, found some oil in carburetor intake boot and dapped it dry with a wadded long paper towel. I did install a new spark plug that Dan gave me, has a sharp pint, double checked the number with dan and it's the right plug

ok took a 20 minute break, went back out. BIKE started first kick, seems to run ok..then rode it up and down block....each time I came to a stop the bike started running rough trying to die.........I put it in gear and ride it hard....seemed smooth my sense a little rich, not that bright lean power but rich power feeling......but smoother then first try.......still the bike begins to idle rough and won't hold an idle long.

that's what I know. can still kick start first start - freaking weird...........I think I'll lean the needle one clip see if that helps. PIA.

if the valves were too tight would it start so easy? I know I said hard starting but not at first, that was after it ran for awhile then stalled then it was not firing up..............allmost like it has bad gas in it.?

ok I'm going in.....maybe the bike is rich, maybe 4th clip will do it.

4th clip, still 162 main and 1.5 FS turns. Bike runs cleaner, a little brighter......better.

Started first kick....idled so so, ran up and down block, then come to stop and idle gets luggy like a car with one or two bad plugs, wanst to die BUT not as bad as before.......better. shut off bike, kick start first kick and she is running but ilde and a slow roll of 0-1/8 turn the bike is idleing rough still.

my sense is the valves are too tight MAYBE and the damn bike is fighting that......my GUESS. but going leaner to to 4th clip helped. Dan said listening to my bike BEFORE we did the valves, he thought it smelled too rich........ hmmm that could be maybe my 5th clip and 162 overshot the good spot......so I went to 4th clip and it is better..........

so what about this rough idle? what could that be? if the valve job has no effect or impact....then it can only be somethjing else.......right? still too rich...in the idle range?

It ran good before the last valve adjustment right?? As far as I know, your jetting is not going to affect your idle the way you are describing. I say it still sounds related to the valve adjustment. If you cannot get it to idle properly with the mixture screw, you know what you have to do.
Just my 2 cents...it's not like I'm an engineer or anything :wink:

ok , thats more like it , do the valves take your time [ critical ]
take plug readings , dont guess

sorry big bob

but i like what you said a few pages back.

why screw with a perfectly running bike?

spent time & money & didnt get a free lunch?

go figure!

did you say the guys that built that awesome machine are idiots?

some tuning may be necessary, but not reinventing the wheel bro.

good luck!

Get an off-set feeler gauge, .004" on one end .005" on the other as per the picture provided by Joe usa in the other thread.

Follow directions in other thread on how to adjust valves WITH feeler gauge, set valves @ .005" and you're good to go. Now that you've had someone show you how it's done, it should be easier. You can't do it by feel, you have to check it with a feeler gauge, that's why they make them.

Do this before you go any further. Because right now you don't know what you've got, you're guessing, and bouncing all over the place, and you're going to drive yourself nuts!!!

I am surprised that Dan's mech would tell you that .002" is good, that's too tight Bob.

The only time Husaberg valves get loose is when the cam followers wear out or the bike is new and it's the first adjustment. Otherwise they will get tight as the valve wears into the seat.

930 pm I'm gonna shut it down for the night. I ride the husky tomorrow, then sunday I was gonna ride the berg....may still try it get a good hour on it and see what is what.......... still never ran it at 4000 feet which is my target jet range....... I really think the valves are TOO tight. BUT I watched him and he double checked it the screw turn did stay at 1/8" as he tightened the nut. The play was so TINY though comepared to the play when we started..........but he did the 1/8th turn......so WTF I have no idea what is what..........now if I go back he may say well your jetting is off and my jetting sense may say no the valves............WTF. now I have two probelms, somebody other me has to fix this.


so F it. I'm gonna give it a rest. If I don't get results on my own soon, then I'm dumping the Hindenberg back at Dan's shop, give him my original carb parts, ac pump rod, jet needles, etc and tell him make it all better...........either adjust the valves or re do the carb, valves jets all of it BUT make my bike NEW again. I am sick of this crapolla.

BB,

One other thought is to go back to your original jetting and see what happens. I know the carb was set up by DL but if the bike ran good with the "as delivered" jetting go back to them and see what happens. This may solve the question as to wether this is a "carb" issue or a "valve" issue. Just wanted to through this in as a suggestion to maybe help relieve some frustrations. Don't get discouraged, we'll get this sorted. This dosn't sound like a valve problem to me, this is a fuel delivery issue.

Regards,

3,200 posts and i've never seen the red mist till this ph..... thread!

first of all if the guy at the shop-ossaman-has done it it'll be a good job and you'll have the 1/8th turn method and the bike will be set correctly so leave him alone.

secondly DL took it that the rest of your bike was in spec when he set the carb so don't even think of whinging over there either.

thirdly, if you're not prepared to see the job through without whinging like a kid then you shouldn't have touched it. now you have? get on with it without complaint! - especially a man of your age!

it doesn't help that we continually get cocky and arrogant anal messages from the NW.

so BB calm down and stop acting like a big kid.

this is your problem: you've gotta know what your doing or learn to do it. if you don't you're at other peoples mercy. this site can help but as my old saying goes "40 non-cooks in the kitchen can still only make baked beans on toast". no knowledge is no knowledge. even 40 times it is still NO KNOWLEDGE!!!!!

so: what you're gonna do is start thinking it through-calmly!!!!!

your tappets will be good but it looks like they were well out of spec and it has radically altered your tickover so we need to sort it. the carb is the problem and not the tappets.

and don't move the needle, the needle has nothing to do with idle and moving off whatsoever. why did you just run the bike round the block and not test it thoroughly? the problem is your pilot circuit and that means the PS underneath the carb and the idle screw.

just imagine if you had done all the following BB?
new carb with no previous settings to go by
two types of cam
different headers
two different tailpipes
different sized carb
3 top end rebuilds
change of radiator
new needles and MJs = 100+ tests
larger exhaust valves
ported inlets
altered ignition timing

and do you know what? after every single change, i didn't make another until the bike is running right from the first one. that meant sitting there with dale's cam next to me for 3-4 months and the same with his needle. i have 450LS kit that has been stood here for 4-months and it might be another 4 before it's fitted!

it starts 2-3 kicks and idles perfectly and runs like sh.. off a shovel.

so this is what i suggest you do. you buy a kouba pilot screw adjuster or make one similar to the one in my gallery and then you go for a ride and you get it really warm. 10 minutes should do. AND NO DON'T DO IT IN YOUR YARD! then you adjust that PS underneath the carb until she gives the best snap wheelie you can get. .5 turn in either direction. try it.

your bike will be fine. you should have a kouba already and if you haven't-why not?

stay calm, don't rant and remember that the dealer, the mechanic, the man who sold you the needle and dealers in general will see this and take this site for a bunch of jerks-whinging jerks and i disassociate myself from that. we haven't come this far just to be called a bunch a whinging girls.

i'd rather fall out than the site be known for being full of clueless people who can't do the most basic things to their bikes without complaining.

there are a lot of people who work very hard here and have a great deal of knowledge. WE set a high standard and expect it in return from others.

Taffy

I don't know... I hate to post because to be frank, I have a had few adult beverages, getting my bike ready for a ride tomorrow, loading up, etc...

I'll say this Bob, after riding my Berg, and helping two friends with their own for years now (I guess), never has a valve lash adjustments yielded such results!

Take it easy big guy! My money is on Dale seeing you through all this. After all, He has done more research and given his results more freely than anyone associated with Husaberg in any professional capacity that I know of (Taffy is of course is the man otherwise!).


Hope this helps.
John.

1.) It's a free site and I will say what I want, how I want ............

2.) that said, it was not a guy named ossaman that did my valves.

3.) no one here owes me an explanation, I paid for the bike and if I choose to pay some one to sort this out, that is the way it's gonna be. My choice.

4.) see 1 above.

5.) I'm still pissed.

6.) see 3 above.

7.) who knows a good husaberg mechanic in NorCal?

8.) I'm going riding now, if the moderators don't like my post, they can delete it. It may be a free site but it's not my site.

This is bringing back memories of ThumperTalk

jeezzzzuzzzz

If you found filter oil in the intake you may consider checking the pilot air jet. If you get that thing plugged with filter oil your bike may start but idle poorly because the idle mixture will be rich.

Another thing, if you've had the carb apart lately the slide may have been put in upside down, this will cause similar issues.

The needle will kick in right around 1/4 throttle so if your bike runs well after idle then I believe the rest of your carb settings are not an issue.