Hi guys, this has probably been talked about before here somewhere but after 2 hrs of reading it eludes me. What oils work well in the 2012 FE570? I have 3 different opinions from 3 different mechanics and a fourth opinion from a oil rep. Will any oil that meets the recommended specs do? Have found a good deal on Motul 5100 but I have been told not to use it. Sick of paying for the shop to service it, want to do it myself as well as save some coin. Cheers
Hi GdayM8, how did you go with the Motul? I've been using Motorex but was considering the 5100 too?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
in oz we can still get Delo 400 15/40
one of the best oils ever made
Bergsmlerg uses it in his 610 570
one of the best oils ever made
Bergsmlerg uses it in his 610 570
thanks bushmechanic.. I have an 09/10 FE390 and don't really want to risk lower spec oil but the 5100 sounds ok.
I have always been using 10/40 oil but now when i have an oilpressure gauge on bike I noticed a big drop in pressure when oil becomes really hot.I am trying 10/50 oil now and pressure is much better.With 40 oil pressure almost dropped below 0.5bar at idlespeed which is minimum pressure by the maintenance manual.
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On my 08 fe650 I have been running Royal Purple Max-Cycle full synthetic 10w 40 and Amsoil full synthetic 10w 40. I will soon be switching to 10w 50 especially from what JAS666 said.
A friend of mine who used to own a Husaberg dealership told me about a bike the dealership sponsored to run a 24hr race The bike ended up running out of coolant and the rider kept racing! The engine never seized and finished the race, but was now in need of a full rebuild.
My friend said they ran the 10w 50 Motorex and is now sold on it being the best oil for the Bergs. I am looking into buying a gallon of this oil for my summer time oil changes.
A friend of mine who used to own a Husaberg dealership told me about a bike the dealership sponsored to run a 24hr race The bike ended up running out of coolant and the rider kept racing! The engine never seized and finished the race, but was now in need of a full rebuild.
My friend said they ran the 10w 50 Motorex and is now sold on it being the best oil for the Bergs. I am looking into buying a gallon of this oil for my summer time oil changes.
I'm running Motorex 10W60 because that is what my dealer recommended (Ljunggren).
Long story short. I managed to run the engine without filling it up with oil and even after one enduro run of ~2 hours it was all good... Lucky for sure, but it was probably enough of the thick 10W60 oil at the bottom for it to survive.
Long story short. I managed to run the engine without filling it up with oil and even after one enduro run of ~2 hours it was all good... Lucky for sure, but it was probably enough of the thick 10W60 oil at the bottom for it to survive.
Yep. I got distracted in my oil change and after draining everything I didn't fill her up. It was the first cold day that year so even though I noticed that the engine had a different sound I just thought it was due to the colder air. Drove 10 min on the highway to the track, drove around 1 hour enduro, then I took back roads back home having fun on gravel. Cleaned the bike and put it in the garage. Next morning I woke up instantly realizing... Changed oil, took the bike for an easy run. Back home changed oil again and no traces of metal what so ever. Drove 2 hour enduro and changed again. All good. Then it was time for 45 h service anyway and everything looked normal. No indication of anything wrong since then (45 more hours).
Lucky.
Btw I have a mechanical camchain tensioner, with the hydraulic oem the rattling of the chain would have warned me.
Lucky.
Btw I have a mechanical camchain tensioner, with the hydraulic oem the rattling of the chain would have warned me.
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Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
ive tested those oils as cutting lube
when brand new the motul 5100 is similar to the delo
NEW motul 300v is better than both it will actually stop the cut
the interesting thing is that when you do the same test on oil that is 2 hours old the delo wins everytime
this is because the delo is made from refined base stocks and requires very little additives to stabilise its viscosity and keep the heavy metals happy.
the additive package in any oil is the first thing to degrade so the less stabilising additives an oil has, the better it is long term.
the "higer grade" double ester and Polyalphaolefins like the motul etc need a lot of additives to stabilse them so they don't fare so well in the long term.
the other disadvantage is that being more slippery at least initially the clutch slips more than with the delo.. which in turn degrades the oil faster.
ultimately you have to use what you are happy with and can afford.. my engine is more stressed than yours .. delo is very good oil, search lineaweavers old posts on it
I am using the Ipone 10W60 in the 09 FE450. I have found that the clutch drags more with the Motul 5100 and isnt as smooth to change.
Im using an oil at the moment called LubeAlloy - LA 379 which is a 10-40, fully synthetic motorcycle oil and the bike seems to like it fine..only issue i seem to have and i think its probably 570 related is that with the engine running i really struggle to find neutral which is damn annoying when i am stopped at traffic lights.
I plan on switching to 10-50 oil as per the manual for my next change though as im out of LubeAlloy..but not sure which oil to try? Delo sounds good but i have no idea where to find it. Might switch to motorex which is what my local Husaberg mechanic recommended.
Interestingly when i looked up Delo 400 on the Caltex website under "Service considerations" it says "not recommended for Motorcycle engines" ??
http://www.caltex.com.au/productsandservices/pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1639
I plan on switching to 10-50 oil as per the manual for my next change though as im out of LubeAlloy..but not sure which oil to try? Delo sounds good but i have no idea where to find it. Might switch to motorex which is what my local Husaberg mechanic recommended.
Interestingly when i looked up Delo 400 on the Caltex website under "Service considerations" it says "not recommended for Motorcycle engines" ??
http://www.caltex.com.au/productsandservices/pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1639
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I have always ran AMSOIL full synthetic 20-50 in my Berg Supermoto's with zero issues and change at no more than 600mi and still looks clear-ish brown with very little metal in the screens & filter.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
I run delo400 15/40 and add 10% moreys HD oil stabiliser due to the relatively high temps i ride in sometimes 40dec C+
no MOTUL or anything fancy
if i run any of those fancy oils the first thing i notice is 8 hours out of a new set of clutch plates instead of 40 and the fancy oil always comes out very thin.
from what i have seen over many years is the "fancy oils" do not offer any advantage unless you change them 2-3 hours.
FWIW penrite now produce good value synthetic and semisynthetic oils specifically for bikes... check out the nearest supercheap autos
no MOTUL or anything fancy
if i run any of those fancy oils the first thing i notice is 8 hours out of a new set of clutch plates instead of 40 and the fancy oil always comes out very thin.
from what i have seen over many years is the "fancy oils" do not offer any advantage unless you change them 2-3 hours.
FWIW penrite now produce good value synthetic and semisynthetic oils specifically for bikes... check out the nearest supercheap autos
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Joined Jul 2012
223 Posts | 84+
South Africa
Funny, Delo 400 was only recently introduced locally. So now I'm wondering about the aforementioned oil pressure drop at low revs if I switch to Delo. The Delo is waaay cheaper than the full synth stuff I currently use, but I wouldn't want to cause any engine damage due to lack of oil pressure..?
Then on the other hand, not speaking about the 70* and later BerG's, but I think that that lower oil pressure (0.5 bar) at low rpm should still be adequate to lube the bigend, since it's basically the only thing the oil pump is for, well that and the oil jet lubricating under the piston, I cannot think that there could be really any damage as a result.
Besides, a lot of the guys have recommended, and used and abused Delo 400 for ages now.
I guess I'm answering my own question here...
Then on the other hand, not speaking about the 70* and later BerG's, but I think that that lower oil pressure (0.5 bar) at low rpm should still be adequate to lube the bigend, since it's basically the only thing the oil pump is for, well that and the oil jet lubricating under the piston, I cannot think that there could be really any damage as a result.
Besides, a lot of the guys have recommended, and used and abused Delo 400 for ages now.
I guess I'm answering my own question here...
FWIW I have been running Delo 400, and more recently with 5% Lucas Stabiliser, in my fleet, incl Bergs, DR, KLX, XTZ, Daedong, Brushcutter, etc.
Proven to have tripled the life of cam follower bearings in my FE501 over the Mobil 1 R4T used previously.
Good stuff!
Delo, Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil. Use Delo 400, NOT Delo 400 LE, Delo Silver or Delo Gold.
Proven to have tripled the life of cam follower bearings in my FE501 over the Mobil 1 R4T used previously.
Good stuff!
Delo, Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil. Use Delo 400, NOT Delo 400 LE, Delo Silver or Delo Gold.
Why do you run the stabilizer? and does it negate the cheap price of the Delo 400 oil when you add the cost of using the stabilizer?
It's hard finding a 10-50 synthetic alternative that wont break the bank..:unsure:
Stabiliser seemed like a good idea after Bushie recommended it. Its one of those things that intrigue a bit, like why if its so good isn't it in the oil in the first place?
Dunno, but just an experiemnt on my behalf. 5% doesn't cost much.
Last 20 litre drums of Delo 400 I got were <> $90 from the depot in Queanbeyan.
Another reason I like the Delo 400 is because I get out and about on my ADV bikes. Its available at pretty much any Caltex servo in the country, and I think they are the dominate servo now too, so oil changes on the road are straightforward.
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