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oiling of air filter

Joined Dec 2008
279 Posts | 0+
Bucks. region ,South East UK
Hi, i am just fitting a new air filter to my 09 570.
I use spray oil. Is it ok to just spray the outer face or should i spray the whole filter inside and out ?

Thanks
 
I would think that with either pour on or spray on you would want to massage the filter and then squeeze out the excess to make sure that the filter is saturated all the way through.
 
What are you guys using to clean your Air Filters?
I am using Motorex Air Filter Cleaner but it just doesn't seem to get all the Motorex 206 Air Filter Oil out.
What brand Spray oil are you guys using?

Geez cleaning Air Filters sux, I never worried too much on the TT250, just ride it and park it in the garage :D
 
I do a quick rinse with petrol to get the oil out, then wash with soapy water staight away (CT18), then rinse with clean water and let dry. Try and do at least 3 filters at a time.

I have just oiled my filters with motorex spay that I have had for a few years and not used as I was told it wasn't very good. I will see how it goes it feels pretty damn tacky...... I know people that have got away with motor oil in their air filters for years.
 
I've been using mineral turps for ever, rinse and air dry. No soap, its not necessary to get all of the oil oil out, just the dirt. More aggressive cleaning damages the foam and glue.

I like Castrol, Motorex and Motul foam filter oils so far. They start out thin, and thicken up nicely. Spray cans are a very expensive way of saturating a filter.

Thicker oils like Belray are good, but to get them into the foam properly I do it before the turps has dried out fully to thin it a bit so its easier to work through.

http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-u ... struct.pdf

Steve
 
PS,

And Davo, just turps, nothing else.

I also have 2 or 3 filters for each bike that I rotate. One on the bike, one oiled and ready to go, and one cleaned and air drying in a large tupperware container I have with an old wire rack sitting in the bottom dedicated for air drying filters.

I also let the used turps sit for a day or so and then its OK to use a few more times. The crap settles out and I pour off most of it back into a storage bottle and use it a few more times.

Steve
 
Turps has two meanings. In this post it is short for Turpentine.
When used in this sentence "I'm going out to get on the Turps", it means your going to the pub to drink beer
 
Those using petrol to clean faom filters are taking a risk...... it expands the cells of the foam (which is why the filters "grow" a little when washed). The bugger is that its a very quick and easy way to strip all the dirt/oils out of the foam, but it wreaks the foam....... Its ok for jappers or your m8s bike but if you luv ya Berg then turps is a lot more mild.
Personnaly I use Motul products (300v ina mota, and Motul filter oil ona filta). There are certainly cheaper products but I have tested Motul under sum extreme conditions and it WERX.
Air filters are cheap compared to motors.
Any motor servicers got an opine?
 
not a subject i normally get involved in as my opinion is no more knowledgeable than anyone else's here but i'm a big fan of spraying it on mildly and squeezing and kneeding it throughout before allowing it to dry for 48 hours.

I cry when i see the bathed ones...i really cry!

regards

Taffy
 
nsman said:
OK I will bite,WTF are turps?

Mineral Turpentine, sold here mostly in hardware and paint shops for use cleaning and thinning of oil based paints. I get it 5l at a time.

Taffy said:
I cry when i see the bathed ones...i really cry!

I also hate to see over oiled filters. I dribble it on and kneed it through. Using just the turps there is always a bit of residue oil in the filter too. Too much oil just drains away anyway, and can cause engines to run rich too. Which is why, like Taffy, I like them to sit for a while, in my case it could be weeks, before installing. If I've been too agressive with the oil, it just drains out in abag rather than all over the frame or airbox.

And if turps is not available, kerosine, sometimes aka parafin, is not too bad either. Petrol/gasoline destroys foam and glue.

Steve
 
This is not the reccommended method, but seems to work for me,
Canola oil, $2 a litre from the supermarket.
pour a little into a plastic bag,rub it through the bag, put the filter in the bag and roll it about in the bag squeezing it into the filter both inside and out.Not to much as it goes everywhere, dab the filter with a rag to get off the excess.I only do this the day before I ride and change it straight after the ride. Does not seem to show signs of dust penetrationing through on the inside of the filter even with bull dust all over the outside it stays clean.
I wash the filters in warm( not hot) water with laundry powder and a bit of normal washing up fluid also.

I have tried a expensive filter oil that washes out in soapy water, it seemed to make the filter go all limp and out of shape once it was washed, so I stopped using it.

regards,
 
Taffy said:
not a subject i normally get involved in as my opinion is no more knowledgeable than anyone else's here but i'm a big fan of spraying it on mildly and squeezing and kneeding it throughout before allowing it to dry for 48 hours.

I cry when i see the bathed ones...i really cry!

regards

Taffy


Taffy,
What brand spray on oil are you using?
What are you cleaning them with?
 
tazer said:
The_Force said:
I use the no toil filter oil, cleaning system its awesome :rock:

Hows the no toil stuff go with volcanic ash?? :D :D

Most of the wocanic ash only falls (snows) close to the volcano so i have not had the chance to test it :bounce3:

the wind blows most of it out to sea
 
in the youtube berg force vid maintanence the classy guy with the swedish pornstar Mo goes and chucks a filter under a parts washer shower. clever buggers

oil.. heaps... Belray or Motul, the more the better very fine dust here and lots of it even in winter. box of kleenex on way to Pratt St for ya Taffy :D
 

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