need to lower bike

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Taffy, it's obvious that you're talking about the opposite thing. Raise/lower forks/yoke. It's a confusing thing to talk about.

I'm sorry but he did mean it. he had plenty of time to correct his mistake. this is why I try to talk about what you do to the TCs: so you lower the TCs or you raise them (on the fork leg).

stop trying to protect his cock up and mess. let him explain his mistakes away.

Taffy
 
As for bar risers, a totally incorrect way to make room to alter your suspension forks/shocks. You should only put bar risers on if you are not in correct seating position

this is cobblers! if you sink the rear end of the bike, you have changed the angle of the frame. so in order to get the same 'pitch' that you had beforehand you need to lower the front end by the same as you did the rear end.

raising the forks does this just fine.

Your front suspension geometry is defined by the following six variables which are defined as:

point 2
Rake The angle in degrees of the steering neck from the vertical.

yes and by dropping the rear of the bike 20MM THE ANGLE OF THE FRAME to the vertical has changed.


Thus saying, unless the frame angle has altered than the angles have not changed,
YES IT HAS CHANGED, YOU SUNK THE BACK OF THE BIKE 20MM!

Moving the shock with a offset bearing does not change the angle very much, thus moving the fork up into the tree the same as what the rear moved would throw your rake and trail way out.

NOW LOOK HERE SUNSHINE, IF YOU THINK THAT DROPPING THE BACK END 20MM CHANGES NOTHING THEN YOU ARE DELUDED. AND IF YOU HAVE CHANGED IT AT THE REAR, ALL YOU DO IS CORRECTING IT AT THE FRONT.

20MM IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE.

MOVING THE FORKS UP TO MATCH THE REAR IS MAKING THINGS THE SAME AS WAS (BEFORE).

BUT YOUR WORST MISTAKE IS TO SAY THAT TO LOWER THE REAR AND THE FRONT THE SAME:
"would throw your rake and trail way out"

INFACT THE RAKE AND TRAIL HAVEN'T CHANGED.
THE WHEELBASE IS 1-2MM SHORTER THAT IS ALL.

SO THERE YOU HAVE IT EVERYONE. THE MAN KNOWS NOTHING.

Back to the point, the 4CS likes to be left alone with the offset bushing in place, it actually corrects a issue the 4CS has from factory for the average rider. :)
EXPLAIN THE OFFSET BUSH IN SUSPENSION TERMS? (sic)

Taffy
 
Last edited:
*******, pending on how you lower the rear, If the frame does not change angle and the wheel base gets shorter the rake and trail do not change. Only tipping the frame changes the rake and trail.

get it together man. 20mm in the rear does not mean 20mm in the front, it all depends on the angle of change not the measurement stupid.

Thus the reason you measure after the rear drop and not guess, this ensures a safe movement of suspension ect.
 
Oh I thought you said prior that only the internals of the fork/shock were suspension?? What now a bushing is part? LMAO

So I terms that you might understand here we go.

In the PDS system we have a lower bushing that goes in the swing arm. It is where the lower shock mount goes. This bushing is correct to center for mounting.
We have a newer bushing on the market called the X-Bushing. It is a eccentric bushing. This would mean it is offset to center.

Would you like me to draw pictures Taffy?

Now the bushing works on about a three to one ratio, with that being said if you use 3/4 inch at bushing the front will be about 1/4 up in trees. To be sure you will need to use this picture to get a correct angle for factory rake and trail.

Sorry Taffy, the picture is from KTM and this might offend you, not that KTM hasn't owner Husa since 95 or anything but just making sure I correct this now.

It is also a very simple picture, I have ones more complex that are used for working metrics, but wanted this simple for your simple mind.
 

Attachments

  • chassis-Rake-Trail_Montage.jpg
    chassis-Rake-Trail_Montage.jpg
    13.9 KB
Now the bushing works on about a three to one ratio, with that being said if you use 3/4 inch at bushing the front will be about 1/4 up in trees. To be sure you will need to use this picture to get a correct angle for factory rake and trail.

does anyone understand what he just said? I mean what is 3/4 of an inch? and a fork leg will be what 1/4 of a foot up a tree or 1/4 of the way to the moon?

your vertical line is wonky, and you can't trust a man with a wonky vertical line. :eek:

you're trying jibberish this one out for as long as possible aren't you!

if you can't explain it you shouldn't be teaching anyone anything. first rule: be coherent.


I wonder how many people would have known that this is front - back - front: "Back to the point, the 4CS likes to be left alone with the offset bushing in place, it actually corrects a issue the 4CS has from factory for the average rider."

I don't think so! given that TCs have a variable offset I'd say you were jibberishing your way through again!

Taffy
 
Last edited:
does anyone understand what he just said? I mean what is 3/4 of an inch? and a fork leg will be what 1/4 of a foot up a tree or 1/4 of the way to the moon?

your vertical line is wonky, and you can't trust a man with a wonky vertical line. :eek:

you're trying jibberish this one out for as long as possible aren't you!

if you can't explain it you shouldn't be teaching anyone anything. first rule: be coherent.


I wonder how many people would have known that this is front - back - front: "Back to the point, the 4CS likes to be left alone with the offset bushing in place, it actually corrects a issue the 4CS has from factory for the average rider."

I don't think so! given that TCs have a variable offset I'd say you were jibberishing your way through again!

Taffy

3 to 1 ratio *******. for every 3/4 inch of x bushing the shocks are to be moved 1/4 inch. Man are you an idiot. Have a chat with the engineers who designed the bushing.

You have no idea what the 4CS feels like or how it handles the bike, so stop trying to say you do, You ride old bike with old technology and think your have a clue. Stay away from anything new as you cant afford to purchase it or even try it unless a unsuspecting customer comes into your shop to allow you to ruin it.

I know I cant swim so I keep my ass outta the water. I however can fly a plane so I do that instead.

I give advise on things I experienced or things I have taught and nothing more. I don't give allot of advise on the older Husa's as I don't know, But newer stuff I do as I was a KTM guy for a long time.

For you to say that you can not test a coil showed you have no understanding of electrical systems in what I specialized in and am certified in and taught. You somehow do not like that other have skills that you don't have. I stay away from the stuff I am unsure of or ask questions unlike you who knows it all and better than anyone else.

Keep it up as you have more to loose than I, I don't have a reputation of business to hold up as I just retired. I have all the time in the world to pick you apart. I have no problem advertising your poor quality of parts and service to customers. I can go on and on. For every one unhappy customer gives you hundreds, for one happy gives you one.
 
OK let's take this one step at a time so you don't look quite so demented. I'll feed it to you nice and slow and you try and answer it coherently OK?

3 to 1 ratio *******. for every 3/4 inch of x bushing the shocks are to be moved 1/4 inch. Man are you an idiot. Have a chat with the engineers who designed the bushing.

I put the ratio up here first a long time ago - so this is old news.
you can't get 18mm of rotation and movement out of the X bushing, you can't use most of the bottom of travel. 8-10mm is all you'll get.

if i moved the X-bushing 18mm and the ratio is 3 to 1, that means that I have lowered the bike 54mm. but you say the forks move a 1/4" which is 6.5mm. that is only a 1/6th of the distance? please explain? why the rear would move 18mm or even 54mm and the front 6.5mm and all will be well?

You have no idea what the 4CS feels like or how it handles the bike, so stop trying to say you do,

I have told you, I raced a 300EXC 6-days when it was new in 2013. you knew that because that was where we started. so you phuqin idiot I have ridden a bike with them. what don't you understand?

You ride old bike with old technology and think your have a clue. Stay away from anything new as you cant afford to purchase it or even try it unless a unsuspecting customer comes into your shop to allow you to ruin it.

I have bought 4 Husabergs this winter. I now own 12 Husabergs to make a profit out of hopefully and put money back into my business. only a fool works for nothing. and as you may have noticed - i'm not a fool. I don't answer questions most of the time about the later bikes because they are not in the UK and you can't diagnose the problems here. "it won't start"....what can you say to that... "it ran and suddenly stopped".

I know I cant swim so I keep my ass outta the water. I however can fly a plane so I do that instead.
AH! KAMIKAZI RIGHT? MMM? FAILED AT THAT AS WELL i SEE.

I give advise on things I experienced or things I have taught and nothing more. I don't give allot of advise on the older Husa's as I don't know, But newer stuff I do as I was a KTM guy for a long time.

this is about handling, you don't know about handling full stop.

For you to say that you can not test a coil showed you have no understanding of electrical systems in what I specialized in and am certified in and taught. You somehow do not like that other have skills that you don't have. I stay away from the stuff I am unsure of or ask questions unlike you who knows it all and better than anyone else.

mmm? there's an easy line in there but I shall desist (sp?). from the expert himself - Steve Hardaker of Bradford Ignitions - he is a qualified auto electrician, 60 years of age, old school, he says it can't be done. he hasn't said that it is impossible so I have left it at that. I don't believe anyone else here has ever found a test for it. so I think you're talking bollocks.

Keep it up as you have more to loose than I, I don't have a reputation of business to hold up as I just retired. I have all the time in the world to pick you apart. I have no problem advertising your poor quality of parts and service to customers. I can go on and on. For every one unhappy customer gives you hundreds, for one happy gives you one.

i think 'lose' is the word you are looking for? it is you that is losing because like my first point which shows you make no sense. people here are bright people and are onto you now.

firstly your spelling is way too poor for a lecturer.
I have also retired three times in my life - until i was "offered" a position that I was far, far, far too good for....

you have made a mess yet again. I've asked you twice to explain your 3/4" and it turns out to be incoherent.

you also haven't explained the red quote away in a previous post.

you haven't made a point yet, you haven't made a dent yet. please feel free to quote anything and ask me to explain it but do remmeber the red part in a previous post, the bit at the top of this post.

Taffy
 
OK let's take this one step at a time so you don't look quite so demented. I'll feed it to you nice and slow and you try and answer it coherently OK?



I put the ratio up here first a long time ago - so this is old news.
you can't get 18mm of rotation and movement out of the X bushing, you can't use most of the bottom of travel. 8-10mm is all you'll get.

if i moved the X-bushing 18mm and the ratio is 3 to 1, that means that I have lowered the bike 54mm. but you say the forks move a 1/4" which is 6.5mm. that is only a 1/6th of the distance? please explain? why the rear would move 18mm or even 54mm and the front 6.5mm and all will be well?



I have told you, I raced a 300EXC 6-days when it was new in 2013. you knew that because that was where we started. so you phuqin idiot I have ridden a bike with them. what don't you understand?



I have bought 4 Husabergs this winter. I now own 12 Husabergs to make a profit out of hopefully and put money back into my business. only a fool works for nothing. and as you may have noticed - i'm not a fool. I don't answer questions most of the time about the later bikes because they are not in the UK and you can't diagnose the problems here. "it won't start"....what can you say to that... "it ran and suddenly stopped".


AH! KAMIKAZI RIGHT? MMM? FAILED AT THAT AS WELL i SEE.



this is about handling, you don't know about handling full stop.



mmm? there's an easy line in there but I shall desist (sp?). from the expert himself - Steve Hardaker of Bradford Ignitions - he is a qualified auto electrician, 60 years of age, old school, he says it can't be done. he hasn't said that it is impossible so I have left it at that. I don't believe anyone else here has ever found a test for it. so I think you're talking bollocks.



i think 'lose' is the word you are looking for? it is you that is losing because like my first point which shows you make no sense. people here are bright people and are onto you now.

firstly your spelling is way too poor for a lecturer.
I have also retired three times in my life - until i was "offered" a position that I was far, far, far too good for....

you have made a mess yet again. I've asked you twice to explain your 3/4" and it turns out to be incoherent.

you also haven't explained the red quote away in a previous post.

you haven't made a point yet, you haven't made a dent yet. please feel free to quote anything and ask me to explain it but do remmeber the red part in a previous post, the bit at the top of this post.

Taffy

No Problem Daffy, Those ones who wanted my advise on this info PM'd and I have gave what info they all requested. As they couldn't understand Your helping hand full. I advise to what I have experienced and they were all happy campers. No need for your help anymore on this one.
 
so answer the points in red then.

clarify your mistakes?

I don't think you've helped anyone, I don't think you know what you're on about.

also, your written English is so poor I think you're lieing about your proffession.

so how come when you lower a bike back and front together you reckon that the trail and rake are drastically altered?

come on! I think we all want to know?

explain your comment in red above? the maths of what you're saying? I didn't get it? I'm sure nobody else did either?

you've got a big mouth and you sound hollow, there's an echo around the place and you made it.

come on! let's be hearing you?

how do you reckon what happens outside a shock/forks is suspension? tell us that one as well?

I think you're full of it. after all the sh** you've put up on the site this week I think we DESERVE AN EXPLANATION of some of your theories. after all, you reckon they are the augmentors of your churlish behaviour!

speak man! speak!

Taffy
 
so answer the points in red then.

clarify your mistakes?

I don't think you've helped anyone, I don't think you know what you're on about.

also, your written English is so poor I think you're lieing about your proffession.

so how come when you lower a bike back and front together you reckon that the trail and rake are drastically altered?

come on! I think we all want to know?

explain your comment in red above? the maths of what you're saying? I didn't get it? I'm sure nobody else did either?

you've got a big mouth and you sound hollow, there's an echo around the place and you made it.

come on! let's be hearing you?

how do you reckon what happens outside a shock/forks is suspension? tell us that one as well?

I think you're full of it. after all the sh** you've put up on the site this week I think we DESERVE AN EXPLANATION of some of your theories. after all, you reckon they are the augmentors of your churlish behaviour!

speak man! speak!

Taffy

Taffy your not worth the time. I made my point, gave you a taste of your own medicine and I done.

The big question is how does it feel to be called down? Not nice huh?
 
Taffy your not worth the time. I made my point, gave you a taste of your own medicine and I done.

The big question is how does it feel to be called down? Not nice huh?

Sorry my typing sucks and I don't spell check haha
 
FE350

last week you said that the X-bushing was rubbish - what cock!!!!

now your telling people not to move their forks because the bike will 'flop'? you're also giving people suspension info that you said people couldn't possibly know about!

well Mr. Expert, don't stop there, so now tell him how to get over it! you're the expert!
:finger::finger:

or have we reached the limit of your knowledge (vast it isn't)

Taffy

the above is completely unedited at anytime.

I think your problem FE350 is that I haven't personally slandered you here. I've said you were wrong and that you don't know your stuff. the above comment is much deserved by you because as has been seen above, you can't explain yourself or the theory and your english is that bad you have never been a teacher.

if you have been a teacher, give the details to a neutral in this site, give them to the other teacher who posted yesterday and let him prove it and report back?

you're written spelling mistakes are so bad there is no way you are an academic.

so here is what you started it with OK? your first reply was....
Well FELLA BONEHEAD............*******....

from then on things went downhill - both ways. at no point have your replies been measured. most of this has been said to take the heat away from the grilling I'm giving you over your knowledge of susepsion and handling.

Taffy
 
Last edited:
What goes on inside a fork is part of the suspension system. To what holds the object that is being suspended is the suspension. So the whole fork is the suspension of the object it holds. Not just the internals. These would be parts that make up the system.

ER, NO! suspension is the up and down stuff, moving the triple clamps is handling, X-bushing is handling, a change in linkage length - handling with an effect on suspension so both.

So what you were saying is that a rear shock internals are suspension but the spring outside is not a part??? What planet are you on??

ER NO!!! i didn't say that, I talked about the "inside of the forks". the spring is of course part of the suspsnsion and hardly worth answering but we are being pedantic. so i must.....

Anything that holds an object up or gives travel to an object in either direction up down is suspension. the triple trees are part of the suspension system, the swing arm is part of the suspension, the links are part of the suspension.

ER NO! you don't tune a swing arm for damping and springing! they move with the suspension, they are activated with the suspension but they aren't the suspension!

see this definition from google: "the system of springs and shock absorbers by which a vehicle is supported on its wheels"

Now Taffy, I am a instructor of automotive, this is quite closely related to motorcycle without a doubt. So be very careful what you post and how you word. I have time, money and experience. Do you want to go there with me again
OH YES PLEASE!! CAN WE!!!!!

I thought you were retired? or is it that you SHOULD be retired (by someone - please god before he does anymore damage!!)

I would rather not and spend my time helping others, but if you start this again I will be more than pleased to pick you apart every chance I get and will take the time to follow each post you enter, so you make the choice FELLA as it is only you who can piss the %^&* off.

well you haven't done it yet. be my guest!

I'm sure we are all waiting for answers to the above questions.

Taffy
 
Just some info on the 4CS for you Taffy.

KTM and Husqvarna are recalling 2015 off-road models equipped with WP Suspension‘s 4CS forks. The four-chamber forks were new upgrades to several models in Husqvarna’s and KTM’s 2014 lineups, which may have contributed to the problem.
[Source: Husqvarna, Australian Competition & Consumer Commission

As for google ******* and so funny how you cut out what it really says LMFAO wow you are creditable "unbelievable"

Cut and paste lol

Suspension is the system of tires, tire air, springs, shock absorbers and linkages that connects a vehicle to its wheels and allows relative motion between the two.[1] Suspension systems serve a dual purpose — contributing to the vehicle's roadholding/handling and braking for good active safety and driving pleasure, and keeping vehicle occupants comfortable and a ride quality reasonably well isolated from road noise, bumps, vibrations,etc.[2] These goals are generally at odds, so the tuning of suspensions involves finding the right compromise. It is important for the suspension to keep the road wheel in contact with the road surface as much as possible, because all the road or ground forces acting on the vehicle do so through the contact patches of the tires. The suspension also protects the vehicle itself and any cargo or luggage from damage and wear. The design of front and rear suspension of a car may be different.

Your cutting your own throat lol
 
Everything is part of the suspension not just the shocks or the shocks would be called the suspension. The whole system of dampening and movement. A shock is a shock and nothing more.

Just because you cant tune it does not mean it is not suspension hahahaha

Moving the triple clamps is not handling lol, handling is the characteristic of what the vehicle does.

And I am semi retired my friend, thus the reason I play on here all the time. I no longer instruct automotive but that by no means does not say I am no longer a instructor. I am also certified Red Seal technician and I know you are not what so ever, just a backyarder in a little ****** shop lol.

Anyways I do not know why I even gave you this lol.???
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Back
Top