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Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter Removal

A

ahoolsema

Joined Feb 2007
166 Posts | 0+
B.C., Canada
Hi ya'll.

I'm sick and tired of my crappy re-starter after its poor power and going through 3 batteries. I'v decided to pull off the starter and battery for good. I've got the bike plated, though, and would like to keep some form of battery for "emergancy" lighting, ie when the engine is off. I also have blinkers, so whatever system I have has to support those as well. I re all the past posts on battery removal i could find, but still am in doubt as to how to go about this. Can I hook up some kind of small battery like this:?


https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/images/ ... 315big.jpg


Or is my only option a capacitor and therfore no "emergency" lighting?

Thanks,
Aaron.
 
Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter Removal

LeFrog said:
The batteries and capacitors sold by Trailtech are designed just for that purpose. They have close to no CCAs but they are good enough to power lighting and fans.

http://trailtech.net/batteries_capacitors.html
Click to expand...


Lefrog,
Can one of those small battery packs just hook right up in place of the old(big) one? Or is a different rectifiyer, or other gadet needed?
 
RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter Removal

They are so small most of them I don't see why they could not be placed behind the front plate. Not having the existing battery (as well as the starter motor) will make your bike lighter and easier to clean in that area.

The capacitor is lighter but will not store electricity (ok, it will, for a second) which means no light with the engine off, which can be an issue if you break down at night while dual sporting.
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter Rem

LeFrog said:
They are so small most of them I don't see why they could not be placed behind the front plate. Not having the existing battery (as well as the starter motor) will make your bike lighter and easier to clean in that area.

The capacitor is lighter but will not store electricity (ok, it will, for a second) which means no light with the engine off, which can be an issue if you break down at night while dual sporting.
Click to expand...

Ok, I understand I could place it anywhere on the bike, but I meant can I just wire it in straight up in place of the stock battery, or is there a special rectifier or something I'll need as well. I'm worried about frying a smaller battery. Or is any 12v battery going to work?
Aaron
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter

Thanks, Mr.LeFrog. :)
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter

Read the schematics, they are pretty easy to follow.
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter

Just got an email back from Trailtech saying that the 12v battery pack they sell is only good for a 1.5amp charge. Will it jive with the Husaberg charging system? I guess i'll just try one out and hope it doesn't melt.
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter

Huh... I will let Sparks answer this one. What battery are you looking for, by the way?
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Need Advice On Permanant Battery/Starter

Yes, well, if I remember correctly, the SEM gives about 70 watts, so a bit less than 6 amps? (Am I right?)

I can't tell you more about the risks of an overload, tell Trailtech that's what your stator coil gives 6 amps and see what they say?
 
If the voltage regulator is working correctly the battery regulates its own charge current automatically. As it comes up to full charge its terminal voltage rises and its charge current decreases. Pretty much any lead-acid battery should be OK to connect in place of the original one. Where it is mounted is a matter of phyically fitting it in without subjecting it in too much heat.

The 70 Watts output from the stator is a maximum available output when there is enough electrical load to use it. Normally the stator/ charging system puts out much less than this.
 
really need help now

Update: I have removed the battery and starter and wired in a 15amp fuse and capacitor (6800uf 50v) in the same way as the stock fuse and battery are. Bike runs great, on idle the lights pulsate a bit, smooth at higher rpm. Soon as I get to 3000+rpm, the lights get brighter and brighter and burn out. i unplugged my rectifyer/regulater on the output side (black and red wires) and checked the volts (dc) coming out. At idle I had 11.6-11.8 then as rpm increased volts ran as high as 60v. I know there is no load on it, but is that right? Is my regulator cooked? Or is there another test(s) I need to perform. I'm beyond my experience here, could use some help. And I searched a good couple hours for answers, but I'm stumped. :wall:

Aaron
 
if your regulator is indeed grounded, then it is prolly no good. most of these regulators have a circuit that will open a path in the device at a trigger voltage. that voltage should be no more than about 16-17v dc (depending on charge amps) and when opened, the circuit goes to ground, limiting the voltage from the rectumfrier (sophisticated electronic term).
as far as the battery pack you showed, if those are nicad cells, and i think they are, you will fry them with your system (i'm speaking from experience here 8O ) without some means to be able to reduce charging amps.. as lefrog says.
 
Thanks Ned. I am ordering a R/R, but its bad timing with the whole Husaberg distribution switching to KTM control this week. For now I'll unplug the stator from the R/R and run without lights.
Aaron.
 
Does the '03 have the regulator and rectifier as seperate units? If it has the Tympanium brand regulator only regulates half of the AC wave from the stator. Without the battery or electrical load I'd imagine the voltage could go quite high.

Have a look in the downloads section for the '98 FEE Charging System schematic and breakdown I did off my bike. It might help.
 
BundyBear said:
Does the '03 have the regulator and rectifier as seperate units? If it has the Tympanium brand regulator only regulates half of the AC wave from the stator. Without the battery or electrical load I'd imagine the voltage could go quite high.

Have a look in the downloads section for the '98 FEE Charging System schematic and breakdown I did off my bike. It might help.
Click to expand...

Mines the all in one type. I tried hooking the R/R output to a battery, and it was still putting out massive voltage. I have a R/R on order, hopefully thats my only problem.
 

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