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My FE650e screams for a rebuild!

What would you do?

  • Rebuild - I support you financially in exchange for a good rebuild tread

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Set the bike on fire and sing a song

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Just sell it as is and buy a yellow Vespa

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    7
Joined Jul 2017
26 Posts | 4+
Norway, Bergen
Hi!
My name is Martin, 23y old from Norway. I’m a happy owner of this 2001 model Husaberg 650 that i bought a while ago. The engine was "rebuildt" by Taff in january 2012, 2-3 owners ago, so it sure has been a solid build and done its job. When i bought the bike, it had not been used for a while, because the only way they had managed to get it startet was to tow it by a car.

I got it home to my place, cleaned the Dellorto PHM40 and the rest of the gas system, I changed the spark plug, oil and filter - just gave it a good service and she started right up. I drove it for about 1km and suddently i noticed a high "razzle" sound from the register side. Drove home and took of the rocker-cover. I find a 53cam in bad condition, missing pices from the lobes, and a decomp mech without any spring load, just hanging loose and knocking on one of the big screw holding the sprocket to the camshaft -making the noise.

So, lately i fixed all of the problems with the engine, bought and mounted a 08 cam with updated autodecomp, cam chain, slides and tensioner, torque limiter, sprague, r6 starter, kick sledge, DVSK, clutch, valve clearance 1/6 turn, ignition timing to 6d before, and on and on and on and on, you know the drill.... - LUCKILY it started, and it sounded beautiful! YES- i fking won! Everything worked perfect, for about 2 hours, and a new "razzle" sound was noticeble, this time also from the register area.
-The nut on the balancer shaft came loose, so i checked the back of the nut and confirmed that when tighten, it will add pressure to the balancer gear and not just only the shaft itself. Locktight and 120Nm, back on the road and drove for 10min before the sound came back. Today i used the bike 2-3 hours and was going to have a look at the problem again. Drained the oil and thats when i for the first time see pices of metall in the oil filter and the oil lt self. Not just small, but i found 3 or 4 big pices *5x20mm ish, magnetic.

Question is than, could there be a shims on the balancer shaft, inside the engine, that now is gone, and thats what made the play on the shaft?

The crank axial float is 1,1mm

Maybe someone out there have any idea what will be the best outcome? Thanks for any input! Cheers!
 

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Last edited:
Any news? Sending good vibes your way, this is a glorious bike!

Hi tourist!! Thx for your reply, i think you are on to something! I noticed there was something with the right exhaust valve, If you look closely you can spot the shim trying to get up between the valve and the head.

v7cdok.jpg

wjexc0.jpg


And is the spring supposed to be that close to the head? Almost touching :eek:
nfnuo2.jpg


I just bought a Suzuki TL 1000 R in parts, needed to be build back together, so all my time is going on that for the moment. I do appreciate all the help i can get with the Husaberg, as Im sure someone sitting on the information i want, on what i should do next. Just remove the old shims, or replace them?
Do i have to take te head of or is there a way to remove the springs/shims with the head mounted?
 
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removing the head is best then you need a valve spring compressor

can make one out of a G clamp a bit like this one

images


p14534_1.jpg
 
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Great! Than Im woundering If i should just rebuild the engine while at it... Is there any rebuild kit Included every gasket, bearing and so for the job?
 
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Re. the shims: There's info from Bushmechanic on the forum about the mechanical properties the shims need to have (he's a mechanical engineer iirc - the info is solid), as in thickness and material (as well as info on shims that KTM supply with a similar kit - a dual-valve-spring kit for ATV motors as I recall?). I'm not sure about the tolerance from spring to head body and don't recall any discussions on it, but it does look quite tight? I do know that members have machined the head to adjust the spring fit.

You might see some old arguments frozen in time when you look, but there's good info there :)
 
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I don't recall seeing a kit out there. I'd get high-quality bearings from a general bearing shop. Local or online. I'd go with NTN in general based on Bushie's recommendations. I had very good results with the France-based online store 123bearing.com when ordering for my DR-Z.

If you'd enjoy the rebuild work, then absolutely go for it. (I would!)
 
I managed to remove the broken shims without removing the head. Will it do "any" harm driving without them? I know the awnser, Yes, but how bad is it?
 
i have a feeling you will find out ....

there were a few people years ago posted that they found no shims under the springs

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long before aluminium flakes end up everywhere but im happy to be wrong ... up to you
 

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