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My engine rebuild

Joined Oct 2002
3K Posts | 21+
Sunland, CA
Greetings all,

Just thought I'd give you all a quick run down on my recent engine rebuild.

As you may or may not have read in my last ride report, my 2004 550 just quit one day while I was riding it, at low rev's and in a very good location.

The cause turned out to be a broken exhaust side valve spring, right near the bottom that resulted in it letting the valve hang about 1mm, so no contact with the piston, very lucky indeed. This was not discovered until I had pulled the motor and taken in to my local shop, where Brett found the problem right away. He put a leak down tester on it and, with the use of some cool looking needle nose pliers, pulled the valve back up so it seated. The leak down tester showed about twice what it should have read, so I just decided that with 220 hours on the motor, to just pull it apart and go through it.

After Brett had pulled it apart he gave me a call to come over and have a look at what he found. Upon arriving at the shop he just looked at me and started laughing and asked me if I had been changing the oil every 5 minutes? He said it looked like he had pulled apart a brand new engine that someone had splashed a little new motor oil on. He said that, with the exception of a couple things everything was perfect, main bearings, trans bearings, big end of the rod, small end rod busing,etc..... Needless to say I was happy about that.

Here's what he did find:

Left side crank main seal was in two pieces.

Cylinder and piston and 4 small scratches below the rings.

Rings were at half wear tolerance, ie end gap measurement.

Intake valves were worn, not too bad but recc. replacement.

Cam chain was worn out. This was the DID that I had just put in, only 40hrs on it. And it was replaced with a new stock unit.

He also found that the crank had a slight amount of run out top to bottom, .004" I believe, and he corrected that as well.

Everything else was in stellar condition. The piston was unbelievable, no scuffing on the skirt, all original machine marks were still visible. Only the small scratches were evidence of any wear.

Brett did a small amount of clean up work on the ports, removing some casting lines and matching the ports to the seats. He also matched the exhaust ports to the headers themselves.

So, now th motor has been re assembled with a new cam chain, rings,(the oil ring by the way is the same as the 950), seals and gaskets, new intakes, new valve springs. All that is left now is to put it back into the bike and break in the new rings.

I had originally intended to take it apart at 150 hours, but, nothing appeared wrong so I just kept riding it. I did have to change the rockers as the exhaust follower had bitten the dust. Then decided to try and go to 250 hours before the tear down, and I almost made it. All in all not bad in my opinion. I'm no hot shoe, but, I do run the motor, pretty hard sometimes when I'm racing, and to have it in this condition when it came apart is just outstanding!!

Brett had a good comment when I told him that I changed the oil after every time I rode it, and that I made sure that the oil never came out black. He said "Oil is cheaper than Metal". I have to agree, as I cannot imagine how much it would have cost if something had failed and torn up a bunch of other stuff.

My hat is off to Cheeseberger for his 10K miles and 349 hours!!

Dale
 
Cam chain being worn out in 40 hours seems strange. Everything else sounds great, and about what I would expect from a well-taken care of engine that needs a bit of TLC.

Basically intake valves and a new set of rings to go along with the broken exhaust spring. Not bad at all. Now it's ready for the next 200 hours.
 
Interesting info Dale. So then the stock Camchain is not a bad choice to stick with. I change my oil every 5 hours or so, probably sooner than most and I have 81 hours on the 650 after 16 months.
Pollo
 
Hi John,

Yes I thought the DID cam chain being worn out was strange too. Brett showed me on the fit of the chain to the cam wheel how it was worn, it was not a good fit. It's interesting b/c the "common" knowledge is that the DID's were supposed to be the hot ticket.

I didn't take notice of how much it had stretched in those 40 hours.

I forgot to mention, the total cost of parts and labor was $1589.95, $957 of which was for labor, and $632.94 for parts. Which I don't mind at all considering that Brett is an excellent mechanic. There were also a few extra parts that I bought that ended up not getting put it. One was a new water pump seal which I had them order. But b/c it's so close to the Orangeberg oil seal, and the fact that the existing water pump seal had so few hours on it, and that Brett did not want to risk damaging the OB seal he just left it there. I had also requested a new clutch cover gasket, but, the one that was on there came off in perfect condition.

I'm actually just now looking at the receipt and here is the list of parts:

2 intake valves $60.12
4 valve seals $72.28
Gaskets $98.59
seals $39.22
Oil Reed valve $9.80
cam chain $76.04
O rings $23.10
clips $7.27
Rings $60.26
4 valve springs $95.20
oil filter $5.95
2 6x10x2 washers $3.20
2 bolts 6x55 $2.12
1 O ring water $ $1.48
1 mineral oil $21.95
=$576.58
+ 8.25% state sales tax
=$624.14
+$8.80 UPS
=$632.94


Labor:

R&R crank $560
Hone cylinder $25
Cyl Head: cut 4 valve seats $160
Porting/clean/match $160
Surface head @ head gasket $32
Sub let repairs: Grind ex valves $20
=$957

This makes the 4th motor I have had Eric's do for me, and all have run great when I got them back. There was a couple of issues with a head gasket not sealing once on my 86 ktm 250 which they repaired w/o charge. Long story short he stands behind his work, and is honest. This makes the 3rd Husaberg motor he has done for me. I just take them in and tell them go through it and replace anything you deem fit, and it has always been just what was needed.
 
pollo said:
Interesting info Dale. So then the stock Camchain is not a bad choice to stick with. I change my oil every 5 hours or so, probably sooner than most and I have 81 hours on the 650 after 16 months.
Pollo

I got 180 hours out of my stock chain, and there was still 4 clicks of adjustment left. I'm only reporting what my experience is, and what was shown to me when my motor was torn down. I too was surprised about the cam chain, but, when Brett showed me how it was not tight on the cam wheel I was convinced.

Dale

Okay Json, theres the bit on the cam chain for you!! :).
 
When time comes my bike will go to the dealer for motor repairs. As a prefered customer labor is around 60 per hour. Non prefered customer is around 80. The owner is also head mechanic and is a Husaberg owner himself with his sons. My bike will be in good hands. The 650 is one that I want to hold on too. I have had a tendency in the past to trade in all my Honda's for new ones. Got just about 20 hours on the 07 CRF450. Now that summers over and Red sticker season is here i' ll let the Berg settle down a bit and put some time on the Honda.
Pollo
 
you guys are Lucky
i just finished rebuilding my motor and its a 04 650 and the right side main broke after about 50+hours and scratched the liner and destroyed the piston. i was able to save liner by it honing only couple of small scratches after honing. I replaced every bearing, new piston, gaskets, timing chain, seals and timing chain tensioner. the threads for the spring cap came out with the cap :? when i removed it.
price for parts 800$
labor
liner honing 60$
motor work 0$ did it my self :D

PS maybe i should of bought the 550
 
Sorry to hear it went so soon Force. Hope you get many more hours out of it this time.
Pollo
 
DaleEO said:
Cam chain was worn out. This was the DID that I had just put in, only 40hrs on it. And it was replaced with a new stock unit.


Dale

it first came to my attention when thomas mentioned it in the main bearing thread. suddenly a DID chain was junk!!!!

he reckons the IWS chain when fitted OEM is the best.

The cam chain on your engine is made by DID, short lifetime.
The 2001-2003 chain is made by IWS, diffr part no. #200045-06 70L (650cc)
There have also been a Regina chain for the older Husaberg.
price is double from DID to IWS but the lifetime is also twice as long.

i haven't asked him yet but i thought my OEM chain in 2001 was absolute junk. so i need to have a word here!

regards

Taffy
 
DaleEO, I am not happy with the math you show!!

However my future looks a whole lot better since your happy with the math!!!

p.s what cam chain did you buy for 76.00 ??
 
Well at least it didnt take a year or two like the last major repair. :D

There is also alot to be said about getting your stuff back in a competant and timely fashion. :wink:
 
Nice update on things Dale, glad your getting things back together. Interesting news about the DID chain. I changed my stock chain after 150 hours; I put in the DID. Still had some room left on the tensioner, I'll have to keep and eye on the tensioner over time, and see how it holds.
 
kzoo said:
Nice update on things Dale, glad your getting things back together. Interesting news about the DID chain. I changed my stock chain after 150 hours; I put in the DID. Still had some room left on the tensioner, I'll have to keep and eye on the tensioner over time, and see how it holds.

While on the topic of cam chains, it was a while back when I mentioned what seemed to me as excessive tension on the tensioner blade, as a result I shortened the spring length of the tensioner to reduce the pressure with no adverse affect up to press, that's going back about 1800 miles. The chain i fitted was a DID, will get a few more hundred miles on it and I'll see how much adjustment has been used.
Just wondering if anybody else has dared to try this mod.

Regards

Sparks.
 
i get werd results with the shortened spring sparks. sometimes its pushing like hell and others it seems barely enough.

i'm only chopping 1/3rd off now.

regards

Taffy
 
sparks said:
While on the topic of cam chains, it was a while back when I mentioned what seemed to me as excessive tension on the tensioner blade, as a result I shortened the spring length of the tensioner to reduce the pressure with no adverse affect up to press, that's going back about 1800 miles. The chain i fitted was a DID, will get a few more hundred miles on it and I'll see how much adjustment has been used.
Just wondering if anybody else has dared to try this mod.

Regards

Sparks.

I had intended on doing this as well, just slipped my mind when I was putting things back together.
 
One more thing DaleEO, I read that the clutch cover gasket was reused? So can you
let us know the gaskets that were replaced? Other than the head gasket.

The only reason for asking is something must be wrong with the price guide issued
to me from Husaberg,I like the one you use :D
 
DaleEO said:
I'm actually just now looking at the receipt and here is the list of parts:

2 intake valves $60 (£40 HERE EACH SO DALE IS UP)
4 valve seals $72 (£16 HERE SO DALE WOULD BE WELL DOWN)
Gaskets $98 (£40 FOR THEM ALL HERE SO CHEAPER HERE. W/O SIDECOVER = A LOT CHEAPER)
seals $40 (£20 FOR ALL 5 SO ABOUT THE SAME)
Oil Reed valve $10 (NOT SURE NEVER RENEWED)
cam chain $76 (£25 - £30 HERE SO a LOT CHEAPER HERE)
O rings $23 (THERE ARE ONLY 3/4 SO CHEAPER IN uk AT £6)
clips $7
Rings $60 (£24 HERE SO A LITTLE CHEAPER)
4 valve spings $95 (£40 HERE SO A LITTLE CHEAPER)


Labor:

R&R crank $560 - NOT SURE HERE WHAT IS MEANT? TO SPLIT THE CRANK IN THE uK IS JUST £50 ($90) SO IF IT INCLUDES A NEW ROD KIT IT'S ACTUALLY VERY CHEAP. A ROD KIT HERE IS RUNNING AT £280.
Hone cylinder $25 - SAME
Cyl Head: cut 4 valve seats $160 - HERE IT'S ONLY £20
Porting/clean/match $160 - PART OF THE LABOUR HERE AND JUST £20
Surface head @ head gasket $32 - £30 HERE SO DALE'S UP HERE.
Sub let repairs: Grind ex valves $20 - HERE THAT'S PART OF THE LABOUR

for once i'd say the americans are a bit more expensive but dealers have various ways of recouping their money or laying out their charges. the actual overall cost is what you'd pay at mine but it's more than you'd pay at DCR's i think.

a good example is the crank rebuid and the valve seats and hone. it would go down as part of the labour here but i can't press my cranks yet so i have to drive off twice in the process of getting it done. anyone doing it in house should be able to save money and/or pass the saving on.

depends how far down the food chain you are? i have to add a little to all the above prices as i'm last in line.

regards

Taffy
 
Re-build pricing

In many cases we thought that we paid to much but when i compare the prices i see that we are 10-15% below the prices Taffy wrote.
And these are the retail prices i asume.

We charge for a IWS chain 402SEK inkl VAT = 25GBP/56USD dep on change rate.
The DID camchain goes for 230SEK incl vat.
But when it comes to the complete motorcycle, we cant compete with the pricing in USA.

//Thomas
 
Taffy said:
depends how far down the food chain you are? i have to add a little to all the above prices as i'm last in line.

regards

Taffy


:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
 
In most cases the manufacture list is considered only a guide (in the US anyways). the dealer can charge whatever the market will bare.
In the auto dealer I work at they have been know to charge from 15-50% over list for most items (and they wonder why buisness is down).
 

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