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Motosportz steering damper install, with pics. - '09 FE570

C

CodeMonkey

Joined Jun 2009
654 Posts | 1+
Seattle
My damper came in, and I installed it today. At first I thought the collar would not work but then I actually read the directions and figured out how to install it - or so I thought. I should have actually followed the directions - what a concept huh?

Anyway, the directions say to install the collar first, i.e., leave your handlebars on - good idea, too bad I already had them off. I should have put them back on, but I am stubborn and lazy that way.

damper_install1.jpg


Now that the bars were off I wanted to remove the perches, but those hex screws are really on there and loctited too. So out came the bar:

damper_install2.jpg
 
The damper installs under the perches, so it comes with some longer screws:

damper_install4.jpg


Stock ones on the right.
 
At this point I started to wise up a little and read the directions when I couldn't get the collar installed (*after* I figured out I needed to install it first). To do that, it is best to remove the front number plate/or headlight. Then remove the computer and the plate. You need to get at the underside of the steering stem from the front.



damper_install5.jpg
 
I got the collar on per instructions. It would have been easier if I had left the handlebars on.

damper_install6.jpg
 
I forgot to take a pic of the collar from the rear of the bike. It is important to get the post centered. Not that big of a deal to do. I did put some locktite on the collar screws and took care to tighten them evenly such that there was the same space on either side of the collar. You can move the post a little by tightening one side or the other, but I got it close and gave it a few light taps to get it centered.

This was the most fiddlely part of the install, except for one other - getting the post into the slot on the damper.

damper_install7.jpg


The post fits as above, but on my damper the fit was so tight that I had to persuade it to fit with a few light and careful taps of a hammer. It is good for it to be tight, but it didn't have to be that tight. Moving the connector slot all the way to one side or the other allows you to work with it and the post better. Once the post is in the slot you put a little screw on top of it - in my case it probably isn't needed, but better safe than sorry.
 
Once I had the post in the slot then I lined up the damper with the top clamp and put the perches back on. Note that the perches are not symmetrical - you can turn them forward or back and the bars will be either slightly offset forward or back. Since I am tall, I selected the bars to be offset back towards me - I have longer arms, but I am also taller, so I usually wind up hunched over on most bikes. The 'c-clamp' (the mounting plate) of the damper raises the bars by 0.6".

damper_install8.jpg


I used the blue loctite again and torqued the screws down to 50 foot lbs as per specs.
 
Here is a better pic of the collar from the front after I reinstalled the computer and wiring. Notice that the wiring leaving the one connector rubs somewhat on the collar. I will have to watch that, maybe put something there to keep it from developing into a short circuit.

damper_install9.jpg


It is important to get the collar right side up. Easy to mix it up.
 
I didn't have time or energy today (I've been sick) to ride it on the trails. But I rode it up and down the street. Even on its lightest setting the steering is noticeably damped. At the center there is a spot where the damping very much lightens up, and at the extreme of the lock too (moving the damper with my hand I could tell at the extreme of its travel there is no damping). I am thinking that even on the light setting the damping will be plenty for the street - I am actually hoping that it will get lighter as it breaks in. Hopefully I can ride it off-road next weekend. I think also Motosportz says you can try different oil weights, so if it doesn't get lighter and I want it lighter, maybe I will try that.

http://www.motosportz.com/
 
I've ridden a few times with it and it works fine. I recommend it. I am glad I bought it.

It still feels weird on the street, and I bought some suspension fluid but I think it is 5 weight (it is Spectro 'Ultra Light').

Anyway, in technical stuff it helps because the steering isn't going all over the place like it was before. I don't notice it being on when riding off-pavement like I do on pavement because I am always moving around off-pavement whereas on the street I am steering the bike a lot less, if that makes sense

I have hit a few things at speed too and while the bike did react, it didn't react as much as it had before and it made a difference between noticing it and getting all out of sorts. I ride it with it set to 'S' on the street and midway to 'H' on the trails - which seems about right. I think if I can get lighter oil in it I will still have plenty of adjustability to increase the damping in the dirt and feel it less on the street. It does help on the street - the front end doesn't feel so twitchy, I just want it to be a bit lighter in the 'S' position.

My next expenditure is the suspension - it is sprung way too light for my 260 pounds and I bottom out on just small jumps (2 to 4 feet in the air). Not that I jump a lot, but the suspension is just not setup for my weight.
 
So, today I replaced the oil in the steering damper with the lightest oil I could find (Spectro Ultra Light fork oil) - which is noticeably lighter than what came out of the damper. It did make a big difference - maybe too much. The damper is now very light on the softest setting and lighter on the hardest/heaviest setting - naturally. I rode it up and down the street and the light setting is now about what I would want for the street. Not sure if there is enough damping in the heaviest setting for the trail, but maybe - I will have to try it next time I go riding. If this is too light I can get heavier oil.

Interesting that the oil in the damper seemed to be contaminated with something black. I don't think it was metal - I could not feel it but I could see it.
 
Nice install pics, thanks for the write-up. I have a Motosportz on my KTM and am thinking about moving it over to my new '09 FE450. Motosportz says I need a new mount since mine is for the cast triple clamp on the '07 450 EXC, and possibly a new frame mount and post. I was curious, did your frame mount and post go on without having to do any filing of welds? I remember having to do that on my KTM as some of the welds splattered and spilled over into the groove on the steering stem that the collar clamps to. Did you have to do any of that for the 'berg?

Also, how much rise was there with the sub-mount? I thought I read around .7 inches? Sounds kind of like a lot. Any negative ergos? Finally, can you position the bars in both positions with the sub-mount or do the bars have to be all the way forward? I think on my KTM they had to be all the way forward, otherwise you had to add another .6 inches of rise with some risers so that the bars would clear.
 
nobrakes said:
I was curious, did your frame mount and post go on without having to do any filing of welds?
Click to expand...
It took some jostling around to find the right groove/area it should go in. At first I thought it wasn't going to fit, but then I found where it was supposed to go. I did not have to do any filing or grinding.

Also, how much rise was there with the sub-mount? I thought I read around .7 inches? Sounds kind of like a lot. Any negative ergos? Finally, can you position the bars in both positions with the sub-mount or do the bars have to be all the way forward? I think on my KTM they had to be all the way forward, otherwise you had to add another .6 inches of rise with some risers so that the bars would clear.
Click to expand...
Right about 3/4" it feels like. Because I am so tall (6'6") I need even more rise.
 
BTW - the longer screws that came with the unit are not plated and they will rust - mine did, quite a bit. I intend to go to the local nut and bolt place and get plated or stainless replacements.
 
So, I rode the bike today on the street at highway speeds and on trails.

The lighter oil in the steering damper worked well, even on the trail. I imagine if I was to be racing at higher speeds in open country, then I would need more damping, but as it is seems fine at any setting above 'soft' off the road. On the road the softest setting gives just enough damping to keep the bike from being twitchy at any road speed, and yet the bike is still flickable, although not as much as without the damper. It seems about right - when I first got the bike you just had to think 'turn' and the bike turned, which is kind of nice - if I was racing on a tight SM track with low speed tight curves I would probably disable the damper.
 
I've spoken to Kelly at Motorsportz about making a damper for the FX450. It seems the bar clamps are 1/2" closer together than the FE's and the KTM's. No idea why though. We've emailed back and forth with measurements and such.
 
CrazyTed said:
I've spoken to Kelly at Motorsportz about making a damper for the FX450. It seems the bar clamps are 1/2" closer together than the FE's and the KTM's. No idea why though. We've emailed back and forth with measurements and such.
Click to expand...
The CC forks?? I did notice that the triple tree is different. I am betting that the 2011 triple tree will be the same as the FX, so making a damper for the FX will also probably cover the 2011 and later bikes.
 
I am confused about the collar of the damper stationar y support pin and how it attaches to the bike without rotating as you turn the handlebars. The silver bearing race around the frame head rotates with the handlebars and the area under this is very tight. Is there a groove in the frame support of the damper collar that goes into the groove under the bearing race?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Motosportz-Steer ... 2a02e37961


Thanx in advance
Fizz
 

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