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Motor on 04 FE650 locked up today.

H

Hair

Joined Dec 2006
160 Posts | 0+
Los Alamos, NM
I had a bad day in more ways than one.

I was riding my berg with some guys. We were on single track and double track. I wasn't pushing it. The oil was changed 10 hours ago. There wasn't any metal on the screen. There hasn't been any metal in any of my oil changes.

I bought the bike with 50 hrs. But the rest of the bike feels like there was more than that. I put another 100 hrs on it.

The bike didn't make any noise. It didn't lose power. It just locked up.

I haven't drained the oil yet. I was thinking main bearing. I would like to check that out first. Do I need to pull the head to check the main bearing? I have a manual that I still need to read.
Do I need any special tools to pull the motor apart?

I really like the bike. And I don't want to part it out. At the same time I am not ready to pay someone a few k to fix it.

So suggestions would be welcome.
 
I think I would just pull the clutch cover (the main one) and have alook around. See if the timing chain is OK. I would then proceed to removing the rocker cover if everthing looked OK.
10 hours is way too long between oil changes.
 
Do I need any special tools to pull the motor apart?
Click to expand...

not really. you need to get the stator rotor flywheel thingy off with a specific puller. everything ese can be done with normal tools. even splitting cases. I just pulled mine apart its not as hard as finding new parts.

download the manuals from here or the official berg site and read the DOC a few times taffys done a great job on the engine sections

regards
Bushie
 
Really, I was thinking that with the extra capacity of an oil cooler 15 hours would be ok.
I am using motorex oil with a 1.25 liter cap.

Honestly I can ride for 10 hours stright on some rides.
 
I just checked the manual. They state change it every 10 hours. I would assume that recomendation is for race conditions. Not DS riding.
 
The stock capacity is 1 liter. The 650's in particular tend to use oil at higher rpm's usually through the breather. It's not so much oil degredation as just using it. The fact that the engine shares the same oil as the transmission does not help either. I like to change oil at about 5 hours, but thats just me. I used to change it every ride, but that was on the older bikes.
You can have the clutch cover off in less than 1/2 hour. just remember to push in on the kick start shaft as your pulling off the cover. You want to keep the shaft seated. If it comes out you will get a chance to practice ALL of your swear words.
Drain the oil and coolant and work with the bike on it's side rather than upright.
 
Sorry to hear about your misfortune today Hair. Many of us here probably change the oil from 3 to 5 hours. Just from what i've been hearing. I never go over 5. I've even at times vacumed it out with a fluid vac between rides to save time from a full oil change, just to get fresh oil in it. My Husaberg dealer said he changes his every 15 hours. Not this guy.
Pollo
 
From what I understand when the main bearings or counterbalancer brg fails the engine makes a noise.If yours just suddenly locked up with no warning I would be looking at the possibility of something like the valve adjuster nut or auto comp stop nut breaking off and falling down and jamming the primary drive gear to the clutch gear.
 
Yes, After thinking about it some more I am headed to the valves in the morning. The decomp leaver doesn't that the same feel to it.
Most of my rides are way longer than 5 hrs. If I need to change oil every five. Then I have the wrong bike.

I will rip into it in the morning.
 
Sorry to hear about your bike man. When i go away for a ride on a long weekend I take a fresh 1ltr oil bottle & clean oiled filter in my kit along with an icecream container. full day might be 7 hrs riding so I just do an oil & filter change when I get back. Pain in the ar$e occasionally but good insurance. :wink:
 
I started looking at the bike this morning.
I pulled the magnetic plug. I found three curved pieces of metal on the plug. They were about 3 mm long by 1 mm wide. They were hardened and appear to be the hard surface off of a Bearing.
There was nothing in the screen or oil filter. I filtered the oil that I drained and found nothing. It is starting to look like a bearing was just starting to come apart. And part of it must have gotten caught up in something else. I am going to lift the cam covers just to see how that area looks.

Is there a good berg shop in the states that I could ship the motor too?
 
ok i have a 650 here. right n=hand main. had one three months ago - right hand main.

evidence - curved bits of hardened metal = the ball cages.

this is the engine that dave clarke pulled down all 200 of and replaced the rollerswith bll because there was no axial float.

suggest that you pull the r/h cover, grab th end of the crank and tug/push/tug it. i would then put in the JR2 balls or machine the r/h case and fit the roller specials. as long as the bore hasn't taken a hiding it might not be crazy money.

if it's a soft link you must get a newchin. never use a husaberg chain again if it's had a soft link unless yo have the genuine article - a shaggd out split link to suit!!!! the only year that ahd the IWIS was '04 so try and order that specifically (it has it'sown part number from that year) or order from someone...ahem!

regards

Taffy
 
Hair said:
I started looking at the bike this morning.
I pulled the magnetic plug. I found three curved pieces of metal on the plug. They were about 3 mm long by 1 mm wide. They were hardened and appear to be the hard surface off of a Bearing.
There was nothing in the screen or oil filter. I filtered the oil that I drained and found nothing. It is starting to look like a bearing was just starting to come apart. And part of it must have gotten caught up in something else. I am going to lift the cam covers just to see how that area looks.

Is there a good berg shop in the states that I could ship the motor too?
Click to expand...

I don't think your oil change interval caused this, especially since you basically used the bike more as a dual sporter.

Rick Bozarth ran a 650 with an oil cooler all the way from Portland to Salt Lake City, then raced it while he was there. There were no issues.

He's the one I would send my motor to as well, if I was going to have someone else work on it.
 
The cam chain is all piled up in the bottom of the crank. I have 150 hours on the OEM. My Bad. I had no idea that I need to replace it at 50 hours. :twisted:

Next stop check to see if the valves are bent.


Looks like I get to keep my buddy. I can't wait until I can take it for a spin.
 
does this explain those bits of metal? not really?

and why would a cammchain just snap?

please ook a lot deeper into this and check that right hand main.

regards

Taffy
 
the motor would be full of metal filings .. 100 hours on a cam chain with no tension . the cam chain tensioner fully extends at 50 hours or less . you would hear the cam chain rattle .
 
bushi

can't agree about the tensioner being fully extended. plus it was an IWIS and they don't wear or stretch.

changing the subject: last week i watched a BBC documentary in los alamos? what the heck was it???????????

it wasn't about some religious nuts was it? or was it one of those planet programmes that robinson is covering/narrating? i think it was. someone at the uni there explained about the meteorite that hit the gulf of mexico or something akin....

regards

Taffy
 

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