This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

More Boring Valve questions

bergersteve

bergersteve

Joined Feb 2006
32 Posts | 0+
Sunny Coast Qld Aus
Ok, I was all primed up to have my first crack at doing the valves, gave my bike a good wash ready to go.

Whipped the tank off.....**** its bloody filthy under there!! so I have to give it another bath... but my question is,

Can you do the outlet valves without removing the radiator??? I tried to get my 1 year old to undo the covers but she wasn't interested?? Also if you do need to take the radiators off, how do you drain it first...well i guess whats the best way to get the radiator off?? and any other preliminary tips before getting to the adjusting stage.

Also do I need to have proper valve gaskets or can I just use a gasket glue maker thingy bob.

I do apologise for lame questions, but by the end of the week I'll have successfully done my valves.....with some good help
 
Yes, you can do the adjustment without removal of the radiator. It is a bit tight but can be done. After many bergs I made a small screwdrived/10mm wrench combo. If this is the first time i would remove the radiator, it will be less frustrating. The removal is very simple, take off the bottom hose and drain, then remove mounting nuts. Be careful not to tear the rubber mounts.

Les
 
You don't have to remove the radiator if you grind down the allenkey a bit
(don't know if I've got the right toolname down.. but you know what tool I mean)
so it won't touch the radiator when you get the screw unscrewed.
It's tight & you will cut yourself at least in the first couple of tries, practice makes perfekt as they say... :D

If you don't tighten the screws too hard you can reuse the old gaskets.
But it's a good idéa to have a couple of spare gaskets in your toolbox since they sooner rather than later will break.


/Nicklas
 
I shortened an allen wrench like Ghost said, also modified a 10mm box end wrench. I never take off the radiator. The process is easier than doing the KTMs I had. So far I haven't had a problem with the valves being out of adjustment. Of course I'm a slow rider compared to a lot of the guys on here. :D
 
Thanks crew. I think i'll take the radiator off for my first crack at it. I'll need as much space as I can.

How long should it take start to finish once you know what your doing?

Also, when everyone says turn adjustment screw in gently until you feel it tension and go back 1/8th turn, do you have to loosen the lock nut to wind in to snug?

I'm having another crack tonight, so I'll keep you all posted on how I went.....should be amusing for some.
 
bergersteve said:
Thanks crew. I think i'll take the radiator off for my first crack at it. I'll need as much space as I can.

How long should it take start to finish once you know what your doing?

Also, when everyone says turn adjustment screw in gently until you feel it tension and go back 1/8th turn, do you have to loosen the lock nut to wind in to snug?

I'm having another crack tonight, so I'll keep you all posted on how I went.....should be amusing for some.
Click to expand...
You have to loosen the lock nut in all cases. You don't say what year model 'berg you have. The newer ones spec a .12mm lash, and this equates to 1/6 of a turn, not 1/8. Use your lock nut as a guide (six-sided, so from one adjacent point to the next =1/6)

I personally would use a feeler gauge the first time, so you can get a correct feel for the 1/6 turn method. Basically, to check your work. Good luck.
 
I'm half way through, but got dragged out of the garage by the wife......It really is a piece of piss to do the valves, thanks to everyone who talked me through it.

One more question though, is how much torque do you need to have on the locking nut. When I went to unlock the nut, I had to give it a fair knock to crack it back of the tappet. Do you torque it as tight as say your bar clamps, or shroud bolts, or do you give it some welly, like say the sump plug?

Also there was a lot of crap down the plug whole in the top of the cyclinder, what is the best way to clean this out if you don't have a compressor?

Thanks again berger men
 
Torque the lock nuts to 11 Nm (97 in lb) on 04-06 models and 10 Nm (88.5 in lb) on earlier models. You really should use a torque wrench for this, because if it comes loose, you will damage your engine. If you over torque it, you could damage the screw, which could break later.

With the spark plug still in, try a strong jet of water, then dry it out with paper towels or cloth.

Pressurized air is the best of course!

If you do not have the manuals, you can download them for free at www.husaberg.se

Joe
 
Ok, I have finished, and have some good info for first timers doing valves. After skiting that it was a piece of piss, I put the bike back together and .......silence....(except a sound of a dead engine).

There are traps for people like me who don't understand a four banger. Anyway, I went to see a mate at midnight to get him to show me how to do it, and he had a great way of doing the valves.

As it seems, I had TDC, well according to the straw I did. but still had overlap on the valves. I was shown a way which seems to work tops. Leave your plug in, take of valve covers, work kickstart until the exaust vavles start to open, that is no tension or load on the inlet valves. At this stage do your inlet valves, back of the lock nut turn till tension is felt, back off 1/6 turn ( I checked with a feeler gauge..spot on). Work the kick starter again until inlet valves start to go down, then adjust the axhaust valves. Same way as before.

Worked like a treat bike started first go, running beautifully.

Thanks for everyones help on my first go at it. I'll defintely be doing it myself every 10 hours from now on seeing how simple it is. Hope this may help anyone getting it wrong.
 
That's the way I always do mine, don't have to pull the plug, etc. Exhaust start to open,do intake; intake closing, do exhaust.
 
I put a thumb over the plug hole to make sure its on the compression......I also grind down a allen wrench to fit w/o removal of the rad
 
I have a different valve question. I'm a new proud owner of a 98 FE600 Husaberg. I was setting my valves for the first time today and i noticed that the exhaust valves opened and closed only a little bit while the piston was on the compression stroke. The valves had closed just before TDC.

Now I have to make clear that it was not the decompression lever doing this. I was turning the crank by hand (not using the kick lever). They opened about the same amount as the decompression lever. I also had a bike mechanic (who has no Husaberg experience) look at it and he could only scratch his head.

The bike has had a resent full rebuild before i got it and the previous owner (a friend of mine) couldn't ride it and my other mates since then gave it the name Hassleberg. I love it and would like to know if this is normal. When setting them the Intake valves had closed the clearance and the Exhaust valves were almost spot on.

The bike seem to run fine after setting the valves. Can someone please help me?
 
it's the design and the operation of the camshaft , ie the duration, you have to be sure you have TDC on the compression stroke

adjust the valves and then check and adjust the decomp , as per the owners manual .

i have a later model and unsure of the clearances
 
I double checked and triple checked every thing because it was so unexpected. The clearances were good throughout the rest of the stroke. It definitely opened and closed on the compression stroke just a bit and closed before TDC then opened and closed when it should (which was checked with a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole) did it smoothly and every time i rotated the crank. It seems like the is a small lobe 180` from the exhaust lobe.

I there was a bike mechanic rebuilding a mates bike at the same time and he looked at it and checked what i was doing and also another friend dropped by (who is a very experienced car mechanic) also saw it. I still haven't talked to a Husaberg mechanic about it.

I'm wondering if there is something wrong with the cam without taking the rocker cover off or is it a Husaberg design?
 
Hassleberg said:
I double checked and triple checked every thing because it was so unexpected. The clearances were good throughout the rest of the stroke. It definitely opened and closed on the compression stroke just a bit and closed before TDC then opened and closed when it should (which was checked with a screwdriver in the sparkplug hole) did it smoothly and every time i rotated the crank. It seems like the is a small lobe 180` from the exhaust lobe.

I there was a bike mechanic rebuilding a mates bike at the same time and he looked at it and checked what i was doing and also another friend dropped by (who is a very experienced car mechanic) also saw it. I still haven't talked to a Husaberg mechanic about it.
MI'm wondering if there is something wrong with the cam without taking the rocker cover off or is it a Husaberg design?
Click to expand...

Nothing is wrong, this is normal operation for the Husaberg during starting.

The Exhaust valve is suposed to open a slight amount and then close before top dead center when turning the engine over slowly or at kick start speeds. This is the operation of the automatic decompressor, on the exhaust cam lobe.

When the engine starts, a counter weight turns the auto decompressor ramp so the exhaust rocker arm cam follower does not contact the ramp.

On some of the 01-02-03 models, the ramp did not decompress the engine properly, and also would wear, making starting even harder. Later models were much improved, with the 04-05-06 starting very easy.

I think Later model auto decompressors can be installed on the earlier bikes.

maybe someone who knows will jump in and say so!

Regards,

Joe
 
Thank You so much for the info. It's great to have a site like this to get information like this. Many of my local bike dealers don't have any idea on Husabergs.

As I'm having a little trouble with cold starts can some tell me a part no. for the later model auto decompressor and maybe even a idea on price? I've worked out the warm start to one kick most of the time. Cold not so good, I end up working up a sweat before the bike starts (I've probably got to play with the carb to improve this).

Just another quick silly question is it good or bad thing to have both the auto decompressor and the mechanical (kick start) levers at the same time or can i disconnect the mechanical lever for a easier start?

Regards.
Guinther.
 
Hassleberg said:
Just another quick silly question is it good or bad thing to have both the auto decompressor and the mechanical (kick start) levers at the same time or can i disconnect the mechanical lever for a easier start?

Regards.
Guinther.
Click to expand...

Guinther,

It is not a bad thing to have both the auto and manual decompression levers. The manual decompression is a good tool to use when you want to clear the combustion chamber before starting.
My cold start technique is to 1st) pull the choke open. 2nd) pull the manual decompression lever in. 3rd) twist the throttle fully open. 4th) kick the engine threw its stroke about 6 to 8 times. 5th) release the throttle so it will close. 6th) with the manual decompression still pulled in, kick 1 more time threw the motors stroke. 7th) release manual decompression lever. 8th) Kick start the bike. it will usually not fire on the first kick but almost always fires on the second. 9th) turn choke off. 10th) Ride the bike!

The manual decompression lever is also used to clear the combustion chamber of any residual gases and prime the chamber for restart after I have experienced a low RPM stall with a back fire.

I would recommend that you leave the lever on your bike and get it adjusted correctly. When it is appropriately adjusted, it makes starting the bike alot easier. Just my opinion. :wink:

Regards,
 
Thanks for the pointers again.

Today i tried another cold start, before I tried to kick it I backed off the idol screw a 1/4 turn. I have noticed that my bike doesn't like the choke for cold or warm starts but a few kicks with it on first helps then turn it off to give it a good kick and usually away it goes. Well did that today (2 kicks choke on then turned it off) and first kick it started. The last cold start a few days ago was about 20 kicks. But that time i tried to leave the choke on.

I have also found recently through trial and error when warm that a number of medium effort kicks with the throttle wide open then stop when I feel a compression not kicking hard enough to miss it, close the throttle and first big kick it starts (well most of the time).

I'll try the cold start again tomorrow and the next trying different things till I get it right and regular. If anyone else has any pointers that would be great. I have downloaded the Hard Start Guide and it's been a help. I'll also see if i can drop the name Hassleberg with my riding mates.

Thanks again,
Guinther.
 

Similar threads

o6550
2006 fe550e - New valve spring kit without removing the head?
Replies
6
Views
675
o6550
o6550
G
2003 fe501 cylinder head repair/replacement questions
Replies
8
Views
581
Taffy
Taffy
o6550
06 fe550e - Starter Relay wiring
Replies
1
Views
534
o6550
o6550
BigBoreBrochacho
Hello from MN!
Replies
1
Views
453
BigBoreBrochacho
BigBoreBrochacho
K
Oil filter cover - threads stripped in the bore
Replies
4
Views
822
heidenberg
H

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions