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MAIN BEARINGS FAILURE, MUST CHANGE

i also haven't mentioed that the ball race can and indeed probably should come handed as well with a shoulder onthe inside. maybe they do but i can't recall!

i remember ball race bearings having EP5, 7 or 9 suffixes as well as being a 'YG', 'B' TA, TU 2YT and UL. all these things add up. steel cages, handed, shoulders, speed and load ratings, the list is endless.

regards

Taffy
 
inner ring support

Taffy.
the inner ring diameter of the c/b is much smaller than the inner ring of the main bearing.

The TN9 ending on the ballbearing is a composite cage and when it eventually breaks it will not destroy the piston ect, it just grinds to small pieces that dont scratch.

We got bearing from KTM that was hardend even more, it looked like it have been heated up again, so the colur was changed.
//Thomas
 
Re: inner ring support

Enginehardware said:
Taffy.
the inner ring diameter of the c/b is much smaller than the inner ring of the main bearing. Thats why we make the support and uses the 9mm c/b bearing.

The TN9 ending on the ballbearing is a composite cage and when it eventually breaks it will not destroy the piston ect, it just grinds to small pieces that dont scratch.

We got bearing from KTM that was hardend even more, it looked like it have been heated up again, so the colur was changed.
//Thomas
 

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Re: inner ring support

Hi Thomas,

I notice you weld your crank pin, we used to do this on the Suzuki 1100 cranks back in the 80's.
I once mentioned about welding the crank pin on the Husaberg quiet some time ago saying that this could help in the rigidity of the crank.
Have you seen any benefit when the crank pin has been welded to the web?.

Regards

Sparks.

Sparks
 
Re: inner ring support

sparks said:
Hi Thomas,

I notice you weld your crank pin, we used to do this on the Suzuki 1100 cranks back in the 80's.
I once mentioned about welding the crank pin on the Husaberg quiet some time ago saying that this could help in the rigidity of the crank.
Have you seen any benefit when the crank pin has been welded to the web?.

Regards

Sparks.

Sparks

Yes, the benefit is that the crank do not twist, we often see that on the 650cc.
If the crank twist we get wibration and this increase the stress on the main bearings.
This crank is also more importent because its a 3mm stroker crank.
//Thomas
 
Re: inner ring support

This is the answer I was expecting but when i mentioned it in one of my earlier posts it didn't get much feed back, so there you go you 650 lads straight from the horses mouth, I'd be looking for a tig welder it will save you a few main bearing diasters.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: inner ring support

I asked GWR (he used to be Smets mechanic when he was on Hbg and KTM and has built a lot of bored and stroked RFS motors) over on KTMTalk what he knew of this issue.

His response was as follows:

Sorry , I have had very very little to do with the newer berg engines, How ever they are not that different to the ktm, I would probably try a ball bearing on the left and a ...... double roller on the right.
 
The world is going to have to wait a bit on the spherical roller, as the noise was only a loose nut on the crank drive gear. Loctite this time and hopefully will run a while.
dan
 
well i had really long chat today with two or three bearing stockists and eventually went on to none other than SKF in the UK.

i described as much as i could of what has been happening and we came back to the problem of getting the mains into the cases and also the crankshaft into the mains themselves.

essentially the mains should be a fairly easy fit into the cases and that the fit onto the crank will be a little tighter.

apparently, first of all there are 25 microns in one thou and for those that don't know. 40 thou make a MM.

the journal of the crank wants to be 30mm plus 2 to 11 microns. the bearing wants to have an ID of 30mm from nil to minus ten microns.

although i didn't discuss the bearing to case fit i take it to be the same so the hole in the case should be 62mm and UNDERSIZED (i.e. 61.99mm) by +2 to +11 microns and the bearing itself should be 62mm exactly (nil0 to minus 10 microns.

i notice that orange hasn't been around for a while but if he or any of you care to have an engineer have the crank journal and the ID of the bearing housing in the case measured it should becomme clearer.

before simon knocks me i will say that lineaweaver found that the misalignment of the bearing housings in the cases was so small that he could inline machine the housings and not only get better alignment but get the housings 'cleaned up' to the correct I.D.

because this is happening in an indiscriminate way i feel that it's an unknown quantity in every engine.

other things that came up:

C4 bearings have a greater tolerance (are looser to you and me) bearing in the ball race area. this indicates that there is considerable difference in the expansion of engine parts when infact there shouldn't be.

if i got this right, the C2 is a tighter tolerance than a stock ball-race whilst a C3 is looser and a C4 is looser still. the next thing we have to find out is how it's breaking down and we have records of this from some owners. one of us had it checked out recently yes?

basically, if the ball is crushed between the inner and outer race it is squeezing out the oil rather than riding on it. it then spalls and starts to run over it's own detritus. it will probably 'blue' the inner race.

as proof that it isn't the oil, i put forward the meticulous oil changing regime riders have as well as the fact that it has been happening among trail riders who aren't even riding hardor revving out.

i had angular contact bearings in my ducati because my primary drive was helical gear and not straight-cut and i was therfore getting axial (sideways) as well as rotational force.

all you have to do apparently is change the 6 in 6206 to a 7 for 7206 and you'll have a 40d angular contact bearing. M stands for brass and CB is medium clearance so i think that that makes it a:

7206 X2 CB M

another point mr baxter made was that vertically split cases aren't a great idea!. i didn't mention the CB.

i'd also say that the bigger bearing on my duke is on the right and not on the left so i don't think that it's necassarily the left bearing that needs beefing and are we sure that it's the left bearing that always gives first?

another point. is 30mm for a crank journal for a 650 single TOO SMALL?

they also explained that it's not true that a ball race doesn't need a straight case to sit in. essentially it has to be perfect for a ball race and like the" immaculate conception" for a roller bearing....

i mentioned to the first technician at SKF technical support that by smacking the crank in the bearings and also the bearings in the housings we couldn't be sure that they were sitting correctly upon any rebuild. this doesn't explain the problem from new where there shouldn't be a problem.

another thing - we never discussed the revs or the loading as it was felt that the bearings should - all being well - be up to the job.

i'm not in a position to take these measurements but hopefully we can get there.

BTW, if anyone in the UK gets there engine down and wants to find out i can get it done around here FOC.

well that's it for this time.

regards

Taffy
 

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Taffy said:
well i had really long chat today with two or three bearing stockists and eventually went on to none other than SKF in the UK.

another thing - we never discussed the revs or the loading as it was felt that the bearings should - all being well - be up to the job.

well that's it for this time.

regards

Taffy

Taffy, thanks for this, it is interesting. I'm not going to knock anything :wink: I''ll try to add to the conversation.

Speed and load factors were discussed a long long time ago but I think those discussions are all but lost. But for reference the limiting spped for the ball bearing 6206 is 15k rpm with a reference speed of 24k rpm with a dynamic load of a bit over 20kN and static load of 11 odd kN. That's just under 2500 or 1100 kilogram force respectively . Reference and limiting speed for the roller bearing will generally be less but the loading will be higher. It is probably enough

As for the comment about misalignment. of course there is a theoretical ideal that the bearings should be perfectly aligned but I refer you to the technical reference by SKF themselves:

This one is for roller bearings:

"Misalignment

Single row deep groove ball bearings have only limited ability to accommodate misalignment. The permissible angular misalignment between inner and outer rings, which will not produce inadmissibly high additional stresses in the bearing, depends on
– the radial internal clearance of the bearing in operation
– the bearing size
– the internal design
– the forces and moments acting on the bearing.

Because of the complex relationship between these factors, no generally applicable specific values can be given. However, depending on the various influences of the factors, the permissible angular misalignment lies between 2 and 10 minutes of arc. Any misalignment will result in increased bearing noise and reduced bearing service life."

Now read what it says about the cylindrical roller bearing:

"Misalignment

The ability of single row cylindrical roller bearings to accommodate angular misalignment of the inner ring with respect to the outer ring is limited to a few minutes of arc. The actual values are
– 4 minutes of arc for bearings in the 10, 12, 2, 3 and 4 series
– 3 minutes of arc for bearings in the 20, 22 and 23 series.

These guideline values apply to non-locating bearings, provided the positions of the shaft and housing axes remain constant. Larger misalignments may be possible but may result in shorter bearing service life. In such cases, it is advisable to contact the SKF application engineering service.

When the bearings are used to locate the shaft axially, guideline values must be reduced, as uneven flange loading can lead to increased wear and possibly even to flange fracture.

The maximum values for misalignment do not apply to bearings of the NUP design or bearings of the NJ design with an HJ angle ring. Because these bearings have two inner and two outer ring flanges and the axial internal clearance is relatively small, axial stresses may be induced in the bearing. In case of doubt, it is advisable to contact the SKF application engineering service."

As you will note, generally there is a greater tolerance for misalignment in the ball bearings that in the roller bearings.

You'll also notice that the earlier reference to "flange" is correct in engineering terms :wink:

As for internal clearance, this is usually specified according to ISO 5753:1991 and as you say C3 is greater than normal, then C4 and C5. C2 is less than normal.

To indicate the differences:

A ball bearing of a bore diameter of 30mm would have a normal internal clearance of min 6 micrometers and max 20. C3 would be min. 15 max. 33 micrometers and C4 min. 28 max 44.

Technically speaking we are talking internal clearance not tolerance.

I have seen C4 bearings come out of engines that have apparently not been opened up before.

So lets look at this from the bearing perspective.

Whether roller or ball they most probably have the necessary load tolerance and speed tolerance for our purposes.

They differ in terms of tolerance to misalignment, quite significantly.

With regards to axial load both bearings are able to tolerate this. Ball bearings no more that 50% of the static load. Roller bearings however become more complicated because there needs to be runout within the bearing and other factors, including temperature, actual radial load and lubrication.

I suspect there may be a problem here. Because of the internal bore fit the rollers will tend to allow some axial shift whereas the roller can't and we must then rely 100% on the internal axial clearance within the bearing and its ability to tolerate axial load and/or crankshaft end float.

Now, it is very interest to note that end float specification has increased in latter years, almost doubling....

I know what I say doesn't answer any questions directly but it does beg some questions.

Now in terms of failures is it most often the left hand bearing that disintegrates? I believe it is. Given that this side also supports the counterbalancer assembly I believe they have to be considered in unison.

Big end pin diameter as I've said before cannot merely be accounted to dealing with crankshaft flex as it usually also relates to conrod loading too. If it is flexing, is it going to flex more than 3 minutes of the arc? Or is it more of a case of whip?

I sincerely believe there is something to do with internal engine harmonics going on - however mad that might seem....whether it is the absolute cause, I don't know but I think it's relevant.

All the best,
Simon
 
here are two great threads with extra links within them to help us along. i particularly like the story by missfire!

http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... ffdf3264a4

http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... ffdf3264a4

simon

clarification...

I suspect there may be a problem here. Because of the internal bore fit the rollers will tend to allow some axial shift whereas the roller can't and we must then rely 100% on the internal axial clearance within the bearing and its ability to tolerate axial load and/or crankshaft end float.

regards

Taffy
 
As I said before:

it's groundhog day.......

it's groundhog day...

it's groundhog day...

it's groundhog day...


Simon
 
Hope this is new enough and that it isn't a rehash, but really am wondering if KTM uses the same mains as Husaberg in their 450 and 525. Have been around those bikes plenty (4 of my riding friends have them) and even the bikes with high hours have had no main problems. Sunken intakes yes, but mains no.
Dan
 
groundhog day is a movie about a weather presenter that lives through the same day over and over again. i think simon is suggesting that we are reliving this problem again and again and again just like the dude in the movie!!
 
Shonky 13,
thank you for the explaination :)
Now it makes sense for me

Tom Hanks played in this movie, right?
 
Hey Gokai134,

As they've said, it's a film and used sometimes as a term to describe a repetition of something that you can't get out of.

My reference to it is three-fold.

1. that the problem of mainbearing failures continues;

2. that the subject come up in a thread almost on an annual basis. You could almost time your calendar to it, literally;

3. every time there is a thread almost exactly the same issue are discussed and every time it's the fault of the bearings (and their manufacturer) or it is the crankshaft wobbling away;

I don't mean to be rude here and I certainly don't want to stop constructive discussion about a topic because a lot of people enjoy and get a lot out of it.

It is just that every time we get this topic, the person or people who go through don't bother to do their research and look at the multitude of stuff that has already gone on.

Nor do they seem to consider certain of the fundamental things surrounding the issues and sensibly eliminate them to begin with.

One of these is the blaming of the bearings. Given that there are only a very small number of bearing manufacturers in the world and the industry they're in, I find this highly unlikely. It seems often there is a blame on a particular bearing manufacturer.

Given that any of these manufacturers supply the same products for machinery the value of dollars to up to millions of dollars and they do this successfully with bearing lasting for years in much harsher environments that our engines, I fail to understand how they decided that just the ones going to our beloved Husaberg are not up to scratch.

It doesn't add up particularly given the bearing specifications - these aren't going to be so out of tolerance to be the problem and they're never going to have such a high fault manufacturing process - they'd go bust in a week if they did.

These people know what they're doing.

Second the blame always goes to the crankshaft and its wobbling. I'm not going to labour this point, I'll get really boring repeating stuff I've said before.

The issue is that these have been considered time and again yet the bearing failure continue.

It therefore has to be something else going on (which I've also highlighted).

Yet despite all the evidence and previous consideration the subject goes round in circles and we seem not to be able to get out of the the vicious cycle.

The only way to really solve the problem is to look outside the box and at something differently

There is also one more thing that needs to be considered that I have never quite got a straight answer to. Is it actually the main bearing going first? On many occasions when the main goes the counterbalancer bearing has also gone. Which one goes first?

Therefore on a number of occasions it may not be the main that's the problme but because it is such a popular topic it gets blamed for everything... almost (apart from the electric start :wink: )

With all the great minds frequenting this forum, surely if they collectively looked outside the box rather than trying to reinvent the wheel we might come up with something....

That's just my 2 cents worth.

All the best,
Simon :D

PS this is officially the wooden spoon being use - i.e. I take great pleasure in trying to stir things up :wink:
 
well simon!

i only ressemble that remark!

i have only nodded approvingly as others have talked of this in previous posts. i have had none of these woes on my little 400. i'm pleased because that is dead money when they go and justifies my decision not to go bigger.

dale L has a habit of making statements and then leaving the building, thats fine but we don't do anything together to help resolve these things. i believe i have a skill in being tenacious and a close look at the dates and times of posts will show that i often will be the one that keeps a thread moving: even if sometimes my methods are unorthodox.

but from what i can make out we haven't been getting many reports on the 9-ball bearing, we haven't been getting many on non-OEM rollers that people are trying.

so here is an opportunity to do so. in this thread that makes you feel like deja vu, we are able to discuss popups wide bearing and i've mentioned the specs on bearings and their fitment.

as someone who goes around a subject trying to understand it before jumping in: the way this thread has gone so far is fine by me! as you know, there is nothing i won't do first or try first if i can. but i don't run a shop and i can't measure and test cranks, bearings (and their housings)., i can't run an arbor through 10 sets of cases.

it looks like orangeberg has gone awol on this thread but i would have hoped some honest dealers who want to get to the bottom of this would have joined in with all of us.

boss says there isn't a problem (and fair enough!) and dale L knows the answers but can we get them? BUT INBETWEEN ARE THE REST OF US. WE ASK QUESTIONS AND WANT TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF IT.

for my part, as long as others try and help: i'll push this along........ i'm quite interested in angular contact bearings as an alternative but i don't know how bad this bearing housing problem is? dale has checked cases aplenty and knows the possibility ratio - WE DON'T!

so i don't share you pessimism at this brand new subject (LOL!!!)! i'm getting involved this time and that to me will make a difference. i can't speak for others on this issue.

as some of you will have gathered from a seperate post: i'm trying to gauge the gap between the left crank web and the main? from that i can try to understand popups idea.

the 13 roller crank looks good! the 12 roller looks to be a bad 'un and unfortunately - that is OEM. i would like to know how much axial free play is built into a crank when rebuilding. some say none, dale says 0.1 - 0.21mm which is 4 to 8 thou. yet it's this loose sideways play that allows the rollers to catch a lip and start scraping it and chewing themselves up in short order? how can you create the correct tolerance in a crank assembly when it comes at zero? hard isn't it! surely that 4-8 thou of an inch is the space that the rollers give themselves to run clean and true up the middddle on BOTH sides of the crank.

whilst i'm sure you've heard it before i think until we know the answer - you need to go round will's house again, and again!

regards

Taffy
 
to Roll or to Ball........

this is another excellent comment by dale however the thread about the arbor and axial clearance seems to be before the big crash.

in it dale says that you are likely to have EXCESSIVE end float.

can i ask then: if he recommends .21mm endfloat. is this for roller or ball or simply both? i'd have thought zero for a ball and the .21mm is for the roller?

for those that don't open it up he recommends a quality C3 (thats THREE) ball for un-checked crankcase axial alignment rebuild.

regards

Taffy
 

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