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has anyone tried running one of these? http://www.mxcomposites.com/ no big end bearing is used. I wounder if it is possible to replace the mains with a solid bushes made of the same material ?
MAIN BEARINGS FAILURE, MUST CHANGE
- Thread starter ORANGEBERG
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spanner said:
We use them and they work fine, the reason why they work is that the oilpressure relifvalve spring is set harder and there is a thin oil film in between the pin and the bigend.
How will you solve the lubrication for the mains?
We use our system which is discribed some pages ago and we are satiesfied with that.
Regards
Thomas
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Hi Thomas, I am new to Husabergs and haven`t yet had the pleasure of having one apart yet, so I can not comment on how it could be done. Has anyone come across a blueprint of the Husaberg bottom end that they can post so we can have a look at what we are dealing with? Cheers Harvey.
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Tom said:
There is no kit from Husaberg or MX composite, you buy the crank or use your own 644cc, the you just install the conrod, balance it due to its very light.
The only thing that one have to think off is you can not start the engine at once, you have to run the starter or kickstarter several times to build up some oilfilm between the pin and rod, then you start the engine. If you stop the motor for some time then repeat the procedure. if it is stopped for a few minutes you can start again directly.
Regards
Thomas
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How will you solve the lubrication for the mains? Thomas, I had a look in the repair manual at a few of the diagrams and photos The mains could be lubricated on one side by simply a hole in the main pin into the gallery that feeds the big end. The other main would require an extension off the gallery from the big end pin through the flywheel into the other main pin, rather like the side. Tried to email mx composites for advice but their email address is wrong. An accumulator in the oiling system would help with prelube before starting. Cheers Harvey
hello
i have read the 18 pages of posts and i understand there is no consesus on what to do to prevent it...but at least i would like to know how can you minimise the damage when it does happen. im not a mechanic so my knowledge is limited about this and also my english is lacking when it comes to the names of the parts that compose an engine. however i have a friend that is a very good mechanic for our local motocross team and he knows ktms and single cylinders in general very well...unfortunatelly we have few husabergs here in romania so he really doesnt have much experience on them and he doesnt speak english
. i would like to ask you what are the signs a guy like me should look for in order to realise the problem as quickly as possible so i dont make a mess by running the bike after it happens.
i have a 07 FS 650 E with about 120 hours on it (bought brand new a few months ago) . i am changing oil at about 15 hours and i use yacco (15W50 i think it is) as the dealer said. i ride it in town, in traffic so i rarely over-rev it... second gear wheelies are the worst this bike sees
it is the first 650 here so i cant ask anybody and the dealer is like: "noooo husabergs have absolutely no problem dont worry ...ktm's are crap...husabergs rule the entire planet...that oil leeking is normal" and stuff like that. so im looking for advice here
1. i've read there is a sound i should hear when it happens what kind of sound? (i hear all sorts of sounds but then again i tend to be a little paranoid) for example there is a sound i hear every once in a while like something snaping ...it's loud enough for me to hear it but not enough to stop and look if my bike is in one piece. it doesnt happen very often but enough for me to think about it in fear
2. apart from that sound will there be any other signs like bike loosing power or...wobbling or stuff like that? i read some descriptions but i didnt quite understand what was described there
3. i understand shiny bits of metal will be spotted on the little magnet when you change oil...up till now i havent seen anything on it except the black stuff that i understand is normal wear from the cluch (?)
4. could you please send some pictures or post links to galleries so i can show to my friend (i've seen the ones posted in this thread)
5. if it is worth changing the stock bearings before it happens with others and there is a general consensus that it will help could you please post the names of them...i have seen many suggestions but people dont seem to agree on them (not even if its the bearings that cause the problem)...or should i just wait for it to happen? (if so what's the best way to avoid damage to the piston and sleeve as i have read sometimes happens)
6. (i know this will be a little off topic but while im at it...) in first gear as i release the clutch and the bike starts moving sometimes there is this loud sound like scratching 2 metal plates together untill the clutch is fully released...is this normal...people tell me its normal cause the clutch plates are thiner or something like that...but i just want to make sure. i havent heard other bikes doing like that
well thats about it i guess...
thanks a lot. adi
edit: at #4: i meant pictures of damaged bearings or possible replacement bearings (but if you post some naked girls i wont mind)
i have read the 18 pages of posts and i understand there is no consesus on what to do to prevent it...but at least i would like to know how can you minimise the damage when it does happen. im not a mechanic so my knowledge is limited about this and also my english is lacking when it comes to the names of the parts that compose an engine. however i have a friend that is a very good mechanic for our local motocross team and he knows ktms and single cylinders in general very well...unfortunatelly we have few husabergs here in romania so he really doesnt have much experience on them and he doesnt speak english
. i would like to ask you what are the signs a guy like me should look for in order to realise the problem as quickly as possible so i dont make a mess by running the bike after it happens.i have a 07 FS 650 E with about 120 hours on it (bought brand new a few months ago) . i am changing oil at about 15 hours and i use yacco (15W50 i think it is) as the dealer said. i ride it in town, in traffic so i rarely over-rev it... second gear wheelies are the worst this bike sees
it is the first 650 here so i cant ask anybody and the dealer is like: "noooo husabergs have absolutely no problem dont worry ...ktm's are crap...husabergs rule the entire planet...that oil leeking is normal" and stuff like that. so im looking for advice here
1. i've read there is a sound i should hear when it happens
what kind of sound? (i hear all sorts of sounds but then again i tend to be a little paranoid) for example there is a sound i hear every once in a while like something snaping ...it's loud enough for me to hear it but not enough to stop and look if my bike is in one piece. it doesnt happen very often but enough for me to think about it in fear 2. apart from that sound will there be any other signs like bike loosing power or...wobbling or stuff like that? i read some descriptions but i didnt quite understand what was described there
3. i understand shiny bits of metal will be spotted on the little magnet when you change oil...up till now i havent seen anything on it except the black stuff that i understand is normal wear from the cluch (?)
4. could you please send some pictures or post links to galleries so i can show to my friend (i've seen the ones posted in this thread)
5. if it is worth changing the stock bearings before it happens with others and there is a general consensus that it will help could you please post the names of them...i have seen many suggestions but people dont seem to agree on them (not even if its the bearings that cause the problem)...or should i just wait for it to happen? (if so what's the best way to avoid damage to the piston and sleeve as i have read sometimes happens)
6. (i know this will be a little off topic but while im at it...) in first gear as i release the clutch and the bike starts moving sometimes there is this loud sound like scratching 2 metal plates together untill the clutch is fully released...is this normal...people tell me its normal cause the clutch plates are thiner or something like that...but i just want to make sure. i havent heard other bikes doing like that
well thats about it i guess...
thanks a lot. adi
edit: at #4: i meant pictures of damaged bearings or possible replacement bearings (but if you post some naked girls i wont mind)
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hey faktor .. hows your bearing ... i mean berg going now
are you mobile yet ?
are you mobile yet ?
thx faktor
taffy i was just asking because i know very little about it and i could have easily missed it in the 18 pages worth of reading ...of course im not gonna sell it i love this bike...but i do want to prepared as much as possible so i know what happened when it does happen (if it does) and minimize any damage by not riding on with it.
taffy i was just asking because i know very little about it and i could have easily missed it in the 18 pages worth of reading
...of course im not gonna sell it i love this bike...but i do want to prepared as much as possible so i know what happened when it does happen (if it does) and minimize any damage by not riding on with it.- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
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- West coast Sweden
New test
We have now switched to a other bearing on the left side mainbearing.
The KTM 610 crate motor have for some time used a ballbearing with a diffrent spec.
This is a NTN bearing.
This is good enough for our 75RWHP engine, we get 20hrs out of it compered with 4-6hrs normally.
So for a std 628cc engine it will hold for "ever".
We use a SKF TMB206/C3 JR2, ballbearing.
We still use the NJ206ECP/C3 on the right side
The riders are at the moment in Hungary on a training course for a week and we expect the engine to last 5 days hard riding, 4-5 hrs every day- Supermoto.
//Thomas
We have now switched to a other bearing on the left side mainbearing.
The KTM 610 crate motor have for some time used a ballbearing with a diffrent spec.
This is a NTN bearing.
This is good enough for our 75RWHP engine, we get 20hrs out of it compered with 4-6hrs normally.
So for a std 628cc engine it will hold for "ever".
We use a SKF TMB206/C3 JR2, ballbearing.
We still use the NJ206ECP/C3 on the right side
The riders are at the moment in Hungary on a training course for a week and we expect the engine to last 5 days hard riding, 4-5 hrs every day- Supermoto.
//Thomas
TMB is transmission steel which is case carborised. 206 means maxifill ( as many balls as can be fitted in race, more load but less speed ) C3 is the internal clearance ( gap between the rolling elements & the inner & outer race ( which allows for thermal expansion, C4= more expansion) JR2 denotes a steel cage. Ive got the SKF rep right beside me at work now. Hope this helps.
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- Apr 8, 2007
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Re: RE: New test
).The KTM part number is 0625 060206
The TMB 206 ballbearing is used in KTM SMR560 and the 613 engine(and my Husaberg 550Taffy said:
).The KTM part number is 0625 060206Similar threads
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