MAIN BEARINGS FAILURE, MUST CHANGE

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Hello ,
I have cracked my main bearing on the left side,on the clutch side,it was a special bearing the 6206c4 bearing,and onb the right side the std one.

about 10 hours on my well tuned bike!!

Any advice??

Greetings Madero
I am planning to install the OEM ones ,because they give me about 80 hours without any problem!!
 
Enginehardware said:
We have now switched to a other bearing on the left side mainbearing.

The KTM 610 crate motor have for some time used a ballbearing with a diffrent spec.
This is a NTN bearing.
This is good enough for our 75RWHP engine, we get 20hrs out of it compered with 4-6hrs normally.
So for a std 628cc engine it will hold for "ever".

We use a SKF TMB206/C3 JR2, ballbearing.

We still use the NJ206ECP/C3 on the right side

The riders are at the moment in Hungary on a training course for a week and we expect the engine to last 5 days hard riding, 4-5 hrs every day- Supermoto.

//Thomas
Click to expand...

have a look here madero. thomas has done extensive testing and is happily giving you this priceless information. if i'm right - and i rarely am! - he is saying that he uses a KTM ball race on the left made by NTN.

anyway - he can speak for himself.

what was your axial float after you built that engine and how tight were the bearings both onto the crank and into the cases? i've just built a 650 up with NTN ball left, SKF roller right and .75 axial.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
Enginehardware said:
We have now switched to a other bearing on the left side mainbearing.

The KTM 610 crate motor have for some time used a ballbearing with a diffrent spec.
This is a NTN bearing.
This is good enough for our 75RWHP engine, we get 20hrs out of it compered with 4-6hrs normally.
So for a std 628cc engine it will hold for "ever".

We use a SKF TMB206/C3 JR2, ballbearing.

We still use the NJ206ECP/C3 on the right side

The riders are at the moment in Hungary on a training course for a week and we expect the engine to last 5 days hard riding, 4-5 hrs every day- Supermoto.

//Thomas
Click to expand...

have a look here madero. thomas has done extensive testing and is happily giving you this priceless information. if i'm right - and i rarely am! - he is saying that he uses a KTM ball race on the left made by NTN.

anyway - he can speak for himself.

what was your axial float after you built that engine and how tight were the bearings both onto the crank and into the cases? i've just built a 650 up with NTN ball left, SKF roller right and .75 axial.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

KTM Id no: left side, ballbearing from 610cc crate motor # 06250.60206
KTM Id no: Right side, Rollerbearing OEM # 800.30.019.000

This will work fine, and keep same axial clearence as you had when running 2pc roller bearing.
We have had varoius quality on the SKF NJ206ECP/C3, so we now uses the OEM ones, and they have also a harder surface on the inner race.
We have now 18hrs on the +73 RWHP (53 RWHP std), with this configuration, still running.
Good Luck
/Thomas
 
The method Sparks is referring to is simply how CR500 Hondas have been put together for years. Bearings fit in the case tightly, but fall in if the cases are heated in an oven and bearings are chilled. Both bearings are a tight slide fit on the crank. Drive side is pulled tight as per Sparks, and ignition side has about a MM of clearance between the inner race and crank web to allow for expansion and crank flex. I see the KTM guys are regressing to older ways as well. Higher load ratings of the rollers sure opened up a can of worms with their flanges breaking off from side loads. I appreciate the info on the best ball bearings. Was surprised to see this thread still lurking, was looking for info on the 09. 09 is one sweet bike.
dan
 
remember madero,the 650's are prone to counterbalancer failure.
some of the lads have, in the past have replaced mains without replacing the counterbalancer, then the counterbalancer bearing fails & wreaks everything.please be aware of this as it can be very costly when you have to learn the hard way.
..weed..
 
good old madero

ever since i can recall he has turned up whinged/begged/needed help and then he's off again for another 6 months.

input as usual. nil.

regards

Taffy
 
Question

I never ask, i just submit!!!!!!!

"But only if its of any importance to the community" :evil: :twisted:

//Thomas
 
RE: Question

Go easy Taff .................he may not cope with your pommie humour
 
Ok ive got a 04 450fe that suffered the old "shoulder broke off the left main" syndrome (probably due to neglect/abuse from the previous owner more than anything else)
After reading this looooooong thread i think im going to go with Enginehardwares solution and have a ballbearing on the left and the roller on the right (Am i right in thinking the roller is kept just to make putting everything back together abit easier?).

I must admit ive never rebuilt a bike engine of any sort before (cant be that much different than a car engine :lol: ) , but ive got the bike (now in bits, so i know how it comes apart :D ), i downloaded the manual and im willing to give it a bash LOL So any tips/advice is welcome.

cheers
 
i've just had a standard FS650e '04 ball-race on the right split all the way around the circumference in the middle. still running but i think i got there just in time.....

LS_crankjournal2spacer.sized.jpg


i don't need to do anything drastic to heal a std motor but i'd love to see what some sort of tapered spacer, inplace of the balancer would do? if it was to butt hard against the flywheel cheek and be say 20mm wide all the way around against the crank flywheel and taper down to butt up against a roller bearing on the left? would this, if fitted tight on the crank and tight up to the crankflywheel stop the harmonics being out? would it act as a strengthener on the left or would it be trouble?

with the left stronger and the two sides balanced would you get even more miles?

regards

Taffy
 
I think you would have good results if it had a large press fit on the shaft. Cool the shaft, heat the spacer and assemble. I would make an installation tool that screws onto the crank thread to push hard against the spacer while it cooled. This method could only be effective if the spacer was hard against the crank cheek. When parts flex they only move by microns.
 
well when you give it the nod neil, i feel i've got hope! LOL!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
give it a go taff.i can't see that it would make it worse.
might stop a bit of crank flex.........but is that the problem?
just make sure you support the full width of the shoulder of that bearing inner.
i think thats the biggest issue here ,running 2 rollers.
as you would already realize, the crank would have to be rebalanced if you are not going to run a c/balancer otherwise before too long that will cause a main bearing failure as well.
cheers ..weed..
 
Ah well guess ill just need to suck it an see with the one ball, one roller approach. Guess im asking the same old question and thats why im being ignored :roll:
 
Yep do agree with that ..
My last re-build due to big end bearing failure i poped in new ball / roller ignition side as per advice from DCR,s main mech. ...Now bearing in mind i do a fair bit of black stuff on my 6 fiddy supermoto set up , hench probabley a lots higher revs i do tend to pull the magnet after evey ride and so far touch wood no swarf whatsoever ..In fact i got so concerned i even checked weather or not the magnet was still.....well a magnet !!

Nothing in the tampon filter either so happy days

Paul
 

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