MAIN BEARINGS FAILURE, MUST CHANGE

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Sorry for the question, but it is to hard for me to read and follow the gigantic thread.

I have a nearly new FE 550 year 2006. (17 hours)

according to the parts manual the bike has this bearings

ZYL.R.LAGER NJ206 ECP/C3HVC058 CYL

Have I to change the Bearings to Rollerbearins????

Who pays the costs?

Is it a warranty or goodwill for husaberg?

This is a failure in construction (as in 2001 the broken crankcase) and have to payed from Husaberg I think.

Thanks in advance

husa98
 
copper washer is not a bad idea, at least it will show up if there is crank flex.

ausberg ,the rollway bearing nj2206 ema c4 /"e" means extra roller being 13 / "m" means brass cage/can't remember what" a" stands for.
you probably got me wrong
.i'm not into changing end float clearances just for the sake of being different.ever since the split case berg motor went to cylindrical rollers in 2003,they have been breaking the shoulders off the inner and thats with husaberg specs.
to me, different end float specs had to be tried to see if it made any difference.
try this one out,simple to do, weld up a jig to measure crank end float like i did.
my motor had nearly .1mm more clearance when hot then when cold.try it out for yourself,see what you get,this is why i can't understand why the clearances were so large.
anyone know about " hj" series bearings suppose to have extra support around the shoulder that handles side loads a bit better,but havn't seen one yet

i'm really very lucky,no damage was done to the rest of the motor,it will only cost me a new bearing and time.
very strange how it happened i had her pinned through a 8km wide open section ,passed 3 of them absolutely blitzed'em,come to the end of that section ,stopped and waited for them,went to start it again and the kick stater was rock solid,lucky it didn't start otherwise it would have stuffed it.it was a case of the" hare and the tortoise"

husa98 don't worry about it,there's nothing you can do,just enjoy and if it makes a strange noise shut it down quick.
..weed..
 
another question for anyone in the know.
in relation to the shoulder on the bearing inner which was smashed off on mine,does it always get broken opposite the crank pin?
..weed..
 
very strange how it happened i had her pinned through a 8km wide open section ,passed 3 of them absolutely blitzed'em,come to the end of that section ,stopped and waited for them,went to start it again and the kick stater was rock solid,
Click to expand...

My mains let go doing pretty well the same thing, pinning it for an extended period ( 40 secs tops for me ) & almost instant vibration on deceleration. Is this whats causing the sprawling ?
I dont know enough about the internals of bergs but the common factor seems to be over -revving ( even if only briefly ) & destruction on deceleration, not acceleration.

Keep up the good work though as this thread is now getting so huge it's an avid read :lol:
 
Hi Wal,
I bet John didn't realise how huge this thread was going to become when he started it !
I think your right with the damage seems to be happening on the quick snap of deceleration. I'm working on the bearings momentarily skidding theory, as people have stated elsewhere on this site. It will be interesting to see if using the Delo400 with regular changes makes the difference. All good with my bike so far (touch wood) but I only have 20 hours on it. It does make sense though that the full synthetic oil being so slippery could cause the momentary skid of the rollers. I'm prepared to sacrifice a few HP for longevity in using Delo400. As if I need any more power anyway, can't stay on the thing now !!!!
Cheers :D
Garry.
 
well i tried my new arbor tonight on freind chris's cases.

essentially i have had it made to clear the right bearing by .002" and i've also had a big fat 1" washer made to fit outside the left case and can be lightly screwed to the back of the arbor and draw it back to the left bearing. where it touches the bearing is EXACTLY on the outer race so i think that it's truly the best arbor i could ask for!

the gap around the arbor to the I.D. of the right bearing was .002" with a gentle fit at 12 and 3 o clock and a very slightly harder fit at 6 and 9 o clock. all in all i'd say just a few microns in it!

didn't have time to check the bearing housings but the engineer said that the bearings were dead easy to press in using a press so......

anon

am i right in saying that ball-races have no washer as OEM and rollers do between the crank and bearing?

another thing

the shoulders of the rollers had broken off chris's first engine but both rollers had snapped the shoulders on different sides of the main WHEN COMPARED TO THE POSITION OF THE BIG END?

regards

Taffy
 
Does anyone have a used inter race of the main bearing ktm part number #50330082000 number on bearing #206ecs48, ntn, japan, hs. I would like to use the old inter race to setup the end-play without playing around with the new inter race. I will pay the shipping cost.

Mars
 
DCR obviously has got a "Main bearing mod" Not totally sure what this is, but has anyone got any experience on this? has anyone wrecked mains with this mod done?
 
mod?

as i understood it it was split the engine and change to ball-race and all in under a couple of hours!

am i right in saying that ball-races have no washer as OEM and rollers do between the crank and bearing?

another thing

the shoulders of the rollers had broken off chris's first engine but both rollers had snapped the shoulders on different sides of the main WHEN COMPARED TO THE POSITION OF THE BIG END?

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Vegard,

I have just rebuilt my engine 550 04 and this has the DCR mod I won't prattle on to much as Taffy thinks it's bad engineering.
They make the collar slightly wider on the drive side so when you do up your crank nut it pulls the crank firmly to the left hand side. Because they use C4 bearings the inner race to crank is just under an interference fit so when both cases are bolted together both bearings sit as they should without the balls being stressed on the inner and outer races.
I think they retained a 10 thou shim but i can't remember which side it's fitted.
They have been doing this mod since 2004 with excellent results, if it works who gives a dam.

Regards

Sparks.
 
So far so good, I can't understand why they wanted to go to rollers in the first place, if it was worth going there I think the japs would of been there first.
To my knowledge they have never used roller bearings, sorry I tell a lie they used split rollers on the TZ500 crank.

Regards

Sparks.
 
don't suppose you would have any pictures on this set up sparks

..weed..
 
popup said:
don't suppose you would have any pictures on this set up sparks


Hi Weed,

No I don't but the collar is 14mm deep and is a modified inner race from the roller bearing, and when all bolted up and shimmed there is neutral end float this assures the crank bearings are central at all times.
If you want one just get in contact with Alex at DCR's they have always got them in stock.
And by the way I was wrong about the roller bearings not being used by the Japs all modern jap engines use them not for performance though just ease of assembly at the factory.

Regards

Steve.
Click to expand...
 
pictures of my(mark 2) main bearing spacer mods in my gallery.
what do ya recon,gunna work?
time will tell as usual.
ausberg ,what do you end up doing?
..weed..
 
popup said:
pictures of my(mark 2) main bearing spacer mods in my gallery.
what do ya recon,gunna work?
time will tell as usual.
ausberg ,what do you end up doing?
..weed..
Click to expand...

Looks like it should. :)

I haven't done anything yet-sitting back watching to see what others come up with :wink: , and what works and what doesnt........

Luckily the Husa has a stablemate (Kato 2 stroke), so I'm in no rush to fix :)
 
what's the chance that welding the big end in helps?

also this time weed, would you drill a tapered funnel in that oil collector of the right case? you wouls surely catch more oil that way?

regards

Taffy
 
hi all
sorry taffy no copper washer was used,as i had a bit of a think,didn't want any flex at all on the shoulder of the inner.
i'm thinking like you,welding in the bigend pin could stop flex between the 2 crank halves,but i never done it.
don't know what you're really on about on the right case,funneling oil into the right side main main is not possible with roller or balls only spherical,if thats what you are getting at.
done a 1/2 day ride on the weekend all sounds sweet,just need a bit more rain,sick of the dust.
regarding you're jokes to steve,that one, reminds me of this Shelia that comes in from the bush once a month to stock up on supplies etc around here.
when i 1st seen her from behind she had jeans,long hair,cowboy hat & a body that you would kill for.when she turned around she had a face like chad morgan.(terrible)!!doggy style & good imagination would be the only way.
..weed..
 
black dot centre of picture is the oil squirter that lubes piston etc.jpg

that wittle tiny 'ole down there! and it's your photo!

oh! and someone tell me what i did wrong here to get this photo up?

regards

Taffy
 
I think you copied the link location instead of the image location. What you paste in has to end in .jpg for the image to appear.
 

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