My technical English is not that good but I'll give it a try:
may be you have to check the carb jetting... With the additional
info requested by Taffy he will give you some advice.
On the other hand, if your bike runs and idles properly under all
conditions this backfiring is common with open exhaust systems.
When abruptly close the throttle after acceleration unburned
and burning mixture reach the exhaust system (because
of the motor braking and camshaft timing overlap) and bang...
Also weather conditions can cause backfiring (air humidity).
I even experienced heavy backfiring when wooded areas
changes to weald during a ride.
may be you have to check the carb jetting... With the additional
info requested by Taffy he will give you some advice.
On the other hand, if your bike runs and idles properly under all
conditions this backfiring is common with open exhaust systems.
When abruptly close the throttle after acceleration unburned
and burning mixture reach the exhaust system (because
of the motor braking and camshaft timing overlap) and bang...
Also weather conditions can cause backfiring (air humidity).
I even experienced heavy backfiring when wooded areas
changes to weald during a ride.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 773+
Ely, England
well hinken! if these facts are wrong then so is my advice.
MJ - 160
MAJ - 200
needle - DVT i presume on clip 4
PJ - 38
PAJ - 100
this was the standard jetting i trust? the needle code as you read it around should read OB DVT. if you're serious about getting this right you need to check this and help me with any of the info you can from your owners manual.
a DVR would help at idle and make the engine a littl bit more 8-stroky. also drop the PAJ to a #60. both these will richen the bottom end.
you should go for a ride and do some snap-wheelie tests for best throttle response by changing the PS underneath from 1.5 turns out from closed to 1 turn out and 2 turns out.
the bike could be popping because of any of these three changes.
MJ wise i think that you may have to try a 165MJ but if you fit that you must check the WOT response. a 'D' series and a 160MJ isn't a very good combo.
there is a E series needle available as an optional extra from husaberg and i recommend that you buy it to compare with the DVT.
regards
Taffy
MJ - 160
MAJ - 200
needle - DVT i presume on clip 4
PJ - 38
PAJ - 100
this was the standard jetting i trust? the needle code as you read it around should read OB DVT. if you're serious about getting this right you need to check this and help me with any of the info you can from your owners manual.
a DVR would help at idle and make the engine a littl bit more 8-stroky. also drop the PAJ to a #60. both these will richen the bottom end.
you should go for a ride and do some snap-wheelie tests for best throttle response by changing the PS underneath from 1.5 turns out from closed to 1 turn out and 2 turns out.
the bike could be popping because of any of these three changes.
MJ wise i think that you may have to try a 165MJ but if you fit that you must check the WOT response. a 'D' series and a 160MJ isn't a very good combo.
there is a E series needle available as an optional extra from husaberg and i recommend that you buy it to compare with the DVT.
regards
Taffy
I had this problem both with and without an open exhaust on my 2002 650.
Problems never gone away. Sealing up the exhaust joins helps alittle other than that :?:
One thing is when its running on the HI ignition setting it helps quite alot. This suggests she is running alittle rich maybe on the idle circuit. But I'm no Taffy.. :wink:
Problems never gone away. Sealing up the exhaust joins helps alittle other than that :?:
One thing is when its running on the HI ignition setting it helps quite alot. This suggests she is running alittle rich maybe on the idle circuit. But I'm no Taffy.. :wink:
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