LHRB in stock Magura clutch master

I'm looking at making the switch to LHRB. Last night I found that some of you have had luck with using the stock Magura clutch master. After extended use, have you had any problems with seals due to switching from mineral oil to brake fluid? What's the best way to flush out the old mineral oil? How about brake sensitivity due to the smaller master? I'm pretty excited as it should be such a simple swap and save a good chunk of money in the process!

I was thinking about doing that, although I read Chas's post saying that retaining the foot pedal is nice for areas like long downhills where his hand would get tired. Other than that, it would be nice to get rid of it. I've bent enough pedals in lowsides that it's fine to lose it in my book.

I know exactly where Timco is. I work on POT road too. Are you local to the South Sound?

So I finally got around to doing this. I tried reverse-bleeding the line with no luck. I just have a mushy lever. I reverse-bled the front at the same time due to putting the old pressure switch from the rear master cylinder into the front master cylinder. I had no problems bleeding the front. I'm thinking I may have a bad piston as the reservoir was dry and I have no way of knowing whether it had previously been working. Can anyone give me any other ideas before I drop another $40 on a piston kit? My wife will be thrilled... I just spent $450 on the counterbalancer upgrade too.

I got it to tighten up, but I don't know if it's going to work. First, I disassembled the master, cleaned everything, and reassembled. All the internals looked to be in good shape. Next, I tried reverse bleeding again but this time I noticed that there was a good amount of fluid under the caliper. I took the line off and checked the banjo fitting.

When I first assembled it I noticed that the banjo bolt didn't want to go in easy but it did tighten up. The line was made at a local hydraulic outfit. The first time I tried to put it on I found the banjo fitting was at a 30 degree angle rather than the 45 needed to lay the line on top of the swingarm, so I took it back. I always thought that the banjo fittings were pre-made at angles but at this place they had some sort of mandrel bender on their machine that bent the banjo a little farther. As I was checking it tonight I noticed that the reason the bolt was tight was because the circular fitting had been buggered up very slightly during the bending, probably just enough to leak.

I swapped lines with another line I had made at the same place but 6" longer (to accomodate bar risers). This one worked with the banjo, but I still couldn't get it tight with reverse bleeding. I put the Mityvac on it and started sucking away with lever in. I tried this a couple of times but still no luck. Last, I cranked the vaccuum pump as much as I could and watched the bubbles still go with the bleeder closed. When I checked it again it was tight. :? I don't know if there is still a leak but I'm going to let it sit overnight and see what happens. Frustrating to say the least.

Incidentally, I'm using DOT 4 fluid. I've heard no problems with using it, but if in fact I do have seal problems then I guess I'll have to rebuild and go with DOT 5. The front Brembo unit called for DOT 4, so I figured I would do the same on the rear.

You're missing the point of the original post. The clutch master cylinder on my bike is no longer a clutch master, but has been changed to be the REAR BRAKE master cylinder. Therefore, brake fluid is needed instead of mineral oil. I have a line going directly from the Magura clutch master to the rear brake caliper.

DamianUK said:

Id like to do this conversion but one thing ive not grasped here is i have this a standard on my 100mph Italjet Dragster 180cc 2 stroke scooter but thats auto clutch, if my magura clutch then becomes my back brake, how does my clutch work? Some things just need explaining to me so be kind!

Click to expand...

Google the Rekluse autoclutch for Husabergs. It will explain all.