Left hand rear brake

I rqan a LHRB off the magura m/c for about 6 racing seasons Rainerio? I had no clutch other than auto clutch, does that count?

i entered a race meeting with the set up and belted into the first corner, got it right, then wrong at the next one and basically never made the mistake again - I just rode it like a Bicycle.

cheers

taffy

I've used a couple different ones on different bikes. I ride mountain bikes a lot and the control with your hand on a steep downhill is way better than what I get with my boot.

Most MTB brakes have a pretty small reservoir so look for larger ones. Rekluse adds a spacer to a Hayes radial mount type - a little bit cheesy but works and fits well. I made a spacer myself and used one and it works fine but it is not as robust as you would like to see on a dirt bike. I also used a higher end Formula brake lever and it was more robust & better than the Hayes. The best option I use now took the most work. I bought an older Hope Mono lever and cut off the bar mount and TIG welded on a mount from an old clutch perch to get the fit I needed for the Handlebar switch. It has a bigger reservoir with a removable cover and is a high quality piece. You can find them on ebay used for cheap and rebuild kits are still available. Not worth it though if you don't have a TIG.

The size and shape of the handlebar switch for street legal bikes also has an impact on what you can fit and the resulting angles for the clutch lever and the rear brake lever. I usually put on a smaller one that has an off position for the headlight anyway.

Hope this helps.

I have had the same idea Raineiro, I have a mtb brake master which I intend to try use as a lhrb. I belive it should work, as funmachines stated above, it is quite similar to what Rekluse uses for their lhrb. Very small reservoir, but shouldnt really be an issue, as long as you keep the brake fluid level topped up as the brake pads wear out. Just remember to open the reservoir cap (to bleed off exess brake fluid) before atempting to push back the piston when replacing brake pads.

Im currently playing with a home setup LHRB (really a thumb brake at this stage).

The foot brake master adaptor is avail separately from Clake.

I used a braided brake hose and radial master cyl from AliExpress. The piston dia is 14mm probably too large.

Today ihave been researching the MTB levers. The likes of Smokn use the Hayes radial master. An adaptor to suit the larger braided lines needs to be purchased. I havent got this far as yet.

Bleeding the system has been interesting. I had to remove the adaptor, fill the master, replace adaptor then i bleed a little from the rear caliper with the banjo bolt loosened. I then backed of the brake light switch and did the same. Then a bleed at the hand master. Both the lever and foot pedal feel hard but neither lock up the rear disc. Ill tie the hand lever in over night.

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Rainerio said:

The levers I have use mineral oil. The rear brake on the 09-11 Berg’s use Dot 4. Ran into that problem before so still trying to see if I can over come it..... by the way I really like LHRB it works so well I had to retrain myself to use it less (slow down to much) also no rear brake chattering! Buy the way the brakes I have are Shimano Deore XT

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Yeah Magura uses mineral oil.

Rainerio said:

Bleeding the system is easy. Slave to master with syringes. I know this because I’ve done it 15 times most wrong but now I’m an expert. I’m trying to be cheap and use what I already have for most part. Rekuse sells the cap also. Clake brake/clutch would be the Hot setup but $1000.00

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Being cheap is good mate. Give the brain a little work out also.

Yeah syringes. Only way.

Im sussing out Hayes and Shimano lever assy’s. Finding it hard to find a lever assy without the caliper at this stage.

While ive gotya, do you know what the ideal hand master piston size is? Clake use a 9.5mm. Do you know what these MTB masters are?

Ok Rainerio, whats the best bleed method?

Poor braking rear now foot and hand equally.

Rainerio said:

Alan No idea way beyond my pay grade. But now I’m going to have to find out. More work.

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No probs mate, all a learning curve. Maybe ill try and measure my MTB Deores.

Rainerio said:

I hang the syringes with strings from the ceiling and let stand for hours so all air bubbles will dissipate. Seen this on bicycle bleeding they pump back and forth 4 times from the slave side of course not letting air into the system this gets all the bubbles out. Make sure the master is positioned so no air be can trapped in it I also hanged the master. Sorry bleed foot pedal first that was no problem got right the first time.

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Thanks mate.

Ive got the bike leaning over to try and prevent any low points. Lever zip tied to the bars. Im quite sure i have the caliper to foot master sorted. It has to be between the foot master and hand master. Ill keep that as is overnight (9pm here atm) and see how it goes. Back and forth bleeding makes sense!

Bleeding can be a pain. I use a syringe and push from the caliper to the MTB lever. Step 1 is make sure the caliper itself does not have air in it by loosening the banjo bolt and back bleeding. Always good to make sure your syringe tube that you attach to the bleeder nipple is completely full of fluid with no bubbles. Next is loosen the foot master banjo bolt and get the foot master bled (I use rags to catch the brake fluid). I found it worked well to have the foot master completely full of fluid when I put the banjo to LHRB adapter in and don't put in the banjo bolt yet. Then banjo bolt and tighten down. Make sure the lever is in a position that prevents air being trapped in line loops (I usually take the lever off the bars and rotate it upright with the cover off) and also make sure the bypass is always covered by fluid and won't suck any air back in. Then runs lots of brake fluid through it, stop and see if lever is still soft, repeat etc. I've also had luck after major bleeding is done to keep the cover off the lever and watch as repeatedly pulling it in. Usually I see some tiny bubbles come up through the fluid for a little while and then stop and then get a harder lever.

Clake sells just the adapter separately for the foot master for a very reasonable price. Rekluse sells one too but charges a fortune for it or makes you buy the Hayes MTB lever with it. Several times I had to make my own banjo bolt that would mate up with the smaller banjo fitting from the MTB lever line. You can get -3 an to -2 an adapters that work for some of the MTB lines.

Rainerio said:

Taffy read you used Dot 5.1 on a LHRB how did that work out? Any negatives?

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Dot 3, 4, 5.1 are suitable Brembo of course. I wonder if the seals can be changed in the Maugra to suit?

Dot 5.1 with 5he highest boil rating of course.

Be buggered if i can get the rear to lock up now. Actually it is quite lame by foot.

Theres nothing more i can do!

Bleed back and forth between syringes. Geez!