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Improving air flow into air box 09 570 Berg

Dunno davo the burn in is supposed to be 5 mins with no throttle inputs, good luck with the cable and learning the system, maybe you could offer Australias first mail order Husaberg ECU bomb-tune. :lol:
 
What is a burn in? I have never heard of that term.
I reckon tuneboy will be good for the bomb-tune :) Havn't seen him at the Cafe for a few days now.
That's 3 questions for him now:
What protocol is the cable back to the Laptop.
When will he do a Husaberg Map.
What is a 5 min or 15 min burn in.

Good luck with spraying your little brother with stones too berglsmerg. The cheeky little bugga :D
 
Davo,I had the dealer flash the competition map onto my ecu ( separated from the bike ) and I was instructed to run it at idle for 5 mins with no throttle inputs, DaleEO writes about it when changing altitudes. I had a BA XR6 sedan that I fitted a SS inductions cold air intake, it took about 700 km for the ecu to get it right, curise control on the highway would vary up to 15 k/hr, it would run hot etc. My current car is a VE Sv6 commodore which I fitted a cat back exhaust system to, it took three weeks for the engine and auto tranny to learn small throttle imputs at cruising speed ie it would bog and then recover. Perhaps its a time based turnout where the ecu will use the measurements taken after a set period of nil input at idle as a baseline :?:
RE: rocks and stones for little bro.... I think I will be anticipating the 2011 release more than anyone :twisted: Man I'm gonna hose him so bad
 
A burn in allows the ECU to make corrections to the map by the input from corrective sensors. You are suppose to do it from a dead cold engine first thing in the morning. KTM even went as far as to say with the 990's the bike had to be on the center stand :roll: I suspect the time issue is so that the bike is fully warmed up and off of the cold start corrections. Keihin ECU uses MAP,TPS and pulse generator for the basic injection rate. Corrective inputs are from the ECT,TPS,Air temp sensor and Ambient air pressure(apparently Husaberg only uses the one in the airbox) Lambda and battery voltage.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I have pulled my head in and am waiting for Tuneboy to get back from overseas.
 
I picked up a 'take-off' seat today for $50. Now I can experiment with cutting a hole in it to the airbox. I was thinking maybe using the rubber airbox seal as something to separate the seat foam from the filter foam in the seat, but the seat is awful thin at that point - it may be overkill. First I will just cut up the seat and see what happens.
 
i ended up talking to my dealer about drilling holes along the the top of the air box shrouds as he has done this mod to all his demos with no ill effects he said the mod has come from one of the high up husaberg techs which they do this mod to there race bikes which gains them about 2.5hp he sent photos were to drill holes so i went ahead and drilled holes as per photo i all so asked about fuel and he said with the competition map have never had any problems so i just let iddle for five minutes from a cold start dont really know if this works but made me feel better anyway i have never ridden a stock one before as i put a carbon ended titanium akrapovic can on straight away as soon as i put that on and started it you could hear it breath alot better and less airbox noise and with the airbox holes most off that sucking noise has gone i have done about 4 hours so far with the mod and it has made the throttle response very snappy and very noticiable and still runs perfect but the air filter does get more dust due to being able to get more air on demand which is a small price to pay for a bit off free horsepower just have to make sure youre allways out in front
cheers aquajett
 
Well yesterday I hacked on the second seat I bought - I put a big rectangular hole in it over the airbox. I put the seat on and ran up and down the street in front of my house. It seemed to run just fine, but of course, if you don't measure you won't know. When I get some spare time I will take it out, run it on idle for a little while, and then run it up and down the freeway to see if it adds any top end.

I don't really care about being in front - except on the street where I may want to get away from some crazy. I mostly would like some power for when I get a snowbike kit and some SM wheels for the street.

I think the hole in the seat would be better than holes in the shrouds - I will put some air filter foam in the hole in the seat and I think this will keep less garbage out of the airbox than if I open up the gaps between the seat and the shrouds.

Either way, it is currently only a $50 investment. I still have my GUTS seat, so I can put it back on. Later, if there are any local dyno days, I will see if I can get a dyno run with both seats and see what the difference is.
 
After reading all posts on this topic, I am going to fit a map switch (original / aftermarket) and drill / slot tank top flanges to allow for better air flow, as the seat mod may not suit the wet muddy riding I like, carry out 5 minute idle then take it to the "berg whisperer" to make sure she continues to run as sweet as she does.
Looking forward to a ride after mods /checks.

Once again thanks to all for the great advise..........
 
There is no EFI Berg whisperer.
The closest you can find on this site are these fellas:
Taffy - Currently mucking around with a quad and a rattly old Berg with some religous fella in a pair of sandles.
Dale - Has pretty much sorted everything out on the new LDC Bergs but the whispering bit.
Bushie - Not sure if he has had a ride on a new LDC Berg but he is definately a whisperer in the making.
Gazza - legend god like status but let his FE570 battery go flat at the start of the Paris to Dakkar so failed his Whispering status.
 
aquajett said:
i ended up talking to my dealer about drilling holes along the the top of the air box shrouds as he has done this mod to all his demos with no ill effects he said the mod has come from one of the high up husaberg techs which they do this mod to there race bikes which gains them about 2.5hp he sent photos were to drill holes so i went ahead and drilled holes as per photo i all so asked about fuel and he said with the competition map have never had any problems so i just let iddle for five minutes from a cold start dont really know if this works but made me feel better anyway i have never ridden a stock one before as i put a carbon ended titanium akrapovic can on straight away as soon as i put that on and started it you could hear it breath alot better and less airbox noise and with the airbox holes most off that sucking noise has gone i have done about 4 hours so far with the mod and it has made the throttle response very snappy and very noticiable and still runs perfect but the air filter does get more dust due to being able to get more air on demand which is a small price to pay for a bit off free horsepower just have to make sure youre allways out in front
cheers aquajett

How about posting some photo's of the drilled flanges for all the members to see?
 
I will take some photos over the weekend and upload them so people can see the drilled holes
cheers aquajett
 
ozberg570 said:
After reading all posts on this topic, I am going to fit a map switch (original / aftermarket) and drill / slot tank top flanges to allow for better air flow, as the seat mod may not suit the wet muddy riding I like
Actually, I think bringing the intake in from the top is probably better for dust/mud/etc. - especially if there is foam in the seat. I have been thinking about building up a seal around the edge of the airbox/seat interface if the hole in the seat approach works out. That way less dust/etc. would make its way into the airbox.

One thing at a time though. First run it with the mod, then mod some more. I am thinking about ordering the DNA filter and testing with it too.
 
Well, I took it out for a ride with the hole cut in the seat. I took it up and down several roads where I could test acceleration through the gears. Since I already knew the bike could pop third gear wheelies I did not try full throttle until I was well into third gear. I noticed in fourth gear that it almost seemed like it could bring the wheel up.

Quite a bit louder on heavy acceleration - almost deafening.

Seat of the pants dyno said it seemed to accelerate faster with more 'hit' (a technical term) from mid-range on up. Noticeably more power - it seemed anyway. When you make a change that makes the bike louder you have to be careful about not associating that increased noise with power, but it did seem to have more power - it seemed to accelerate the bike faster.

I came home and put the unmodified seat on to test it back to back - and it did seem that without the hole in the seat the power was a bit lacking from before.

Of course you don't know unless you measure, so a dyno run is in order.
 
What happens if you accidenaly slide too far forward and sit over the hole, is their any chance it could suck guts out? :oops:
 
tazer said:
What happens if you accidenaly slide too far forward and sit over the hole, is their any chance it could suck guts out? :oops:
That depends on how low your 'guts' hang. :mrgreen:

Seriously, that part of the seat is not what you usually sit on (at least I don't) - it is more padding to protect your sensitive bits. And no, it isn't going to suck anything. :roll:

My plan is to have a custom seat built on this spare pan. The hole will have air filter foam in it so it will breathe. On the underside there will be porous (to air) fabric covering the hole and it will be velcroed to the pan so I can get to the foam. On the top the fabric for that area will be porous but not detachable.
 
dLaGm.jpg
 
Gday All,
Carried out minor mod by drilling 3 x 6mm holesdown each side of the tank flange
(above and not into tank! :oops: )
Slightly more induction noise, sounds like it is breathing better..
Did 5min burn from cold after mod.
May have to run a filter 2nd skin when riding in extremely dusty conditions.
 
Hi everyone i have just worked out how to post pictures to my post here are some pictures of my holes i drilled in my shrouds to let some more air in to help it breath sorry it has taken so long

DSC_0849.jpg


cheers aquajett
 
Hey All,
Great Pic Aquajett, Only put 3 x 6mm holes ( close together) down each side of tank flange but only up high in the tank flange, this seems to make a tangible difference to performance, on the down side this mod introduces addtional dust into air box, recommend filter skin on dusty rides, mandatory filter servicing / changes in between rides...

Enjoy your BERG'S
 

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