Hey guys, some of you may remember me a couple years ago having a no spark issue with my 99 501 well after giving up on the bike and spending alot of money on new parts and a rewound stator from someone on here, i finally got back to tinkering with the bike after getting some new used parts it turns out the stator i spent almost $300 on seems to be defective. so now i have spark!!!! almost crapped my pants i thought it would never happen i started to hate this bike. so here's my new problem i got it all hooked up ready to start and when i kick the starter it will either just turn over the motor or randomly kick back so effin hard that now i think i seriously injured my foot it feels sprained :cuss: and i was wearing boots. also when it kicks back it sounds like a gun shot going off and smoke comes out of the air box and carb. what would you suggest to look at next?
hi
iv seen this a few times mostly with husabergs but aslo with a few other bikes , infact iv just helped a customer get an old 1988 ktm 600 going with similar sounding problem .
at first he thought his sem stator had failed so he sent it to me to repair but there was nothing wrong with it so i sent it back and he sourced a cheap used cdi , then he had a nice spark but his bike still would not start , just exactly what your describing the engine would turn over or back fire .
anyway i told him to turn up the tick over and his bike started 2nd kick .
this might not be your problem but i would try it anyway.
cheers kris
iv seen this a few times mostly with husabergs but aslo with a few other bikes , infact iv just helped a customer get an old 1988 ktm 600 going with similar sounding problem .
at first he thought his sem stator had failed so he sent it to me to repair but there was nothing wrong with it so i sent it back and he sourced a cheap used cdi , then he had a nice spark but his bike still would not start , just exactly what your describing the engine would turn over or back fire .
anyway i told him to turn up the tick over and his bike started 2nd kick .
this might not be your problem but i would try it anyway.
cheers kris
Joined Dec 2004
2K Posts | 248+
back in cottonwood, az
iirc the 99 was the first berg with the stator in the cover, and thus would have to have been wound to rotor rotation opposite of pre-99 bergs. i also think the 99 has the red cdi. is this what you have?
are you sure the stator you have is for the 99? if you use, for instance, a 2000-up stator (looks just like a 99) with a red cdi, it will do exactly as you describe. sounds like you are a victim of mismatched parts.
are you sure the stator you have is for the 99? if you use, for instance, a 2000-up stator (looks just like a 99) with a red cdi, it will do exactly as you describe. sounds like you are a victim of mismatched parts.
as far as im aware the mk1 stator runs the red cdi and the mk2 runs the black cdi and husaberg only had 2 genertations of sem stators 1990-1998 and 1999-2003, this means if he has the stator in the cover the cdi will be black. i am unaware of a husaberg that runs the stator in the cover with a red cdi.
have you tried bump starting the bike ? as this would give you a good indication weather it actually wats to run or not.
if your stator is in the cover it should read red-black 3000 ohm +/- 10% and green-black 168 ohm +/- 10% and you should have a black cdi . providing this checks out and you do get a spark i would say its more like the carb , also when the stator was fitted was the timing mark set in the middle of the inspection hole ? as if it was set fully advanced this could also give you kick back when trying to kick start as it would fire too soon.
cheers kris
have you tried bump starting the bike ? as this would give you a good indication weather it actually wats to run or not.
if your stator is in the cover it should read red-black 3000 ohm +/- 10% and green-black 168 ohm +/- 10% and you should have a black cdi . providing this checks out and you do get a spark i would say its more like the carb , also when the stator was fitted was the timing mark set in the middle of the inspection hole ? as if it was set fully advanced this could also give you kick back when trying to kick start as it would fire too soon.
cheers kris
I believe you guys are correct about the mismatched parts so please help me figure this out. i got the following from a 1996 FE501 running parts bike, stator, Red cdi, and magneto flywheel. i originally had a black cdi that is larger than the red one. i installed the stator and the cdi from the 96 and its the first time i ever got spark but then the kick back happened, the stator fit right into my 99 engine cover housing. so what part is the incorrect one for the 99+? can i find a good 99+ stator and splice into and use the red cdi from the 96?
aah ha this information would of been a big help, as you have just explained your problem .
i actually tried this combination a few years ago with the same result ( major kick back ), it happened even if you kicked it through very slowly .
if i remember right the problem is that you will get 2 sparks per revolution and this is why you get kick back.
about using the 96 cdi ? im not sure if this has been done before , but there is an older ktm like the 95 620 wich has the same stator as 99-03 husabergs ( bolted in the casing ) but it is wound to mk1 husaberg specs 90-98 and also uses the same tm 14 cdi as the 90-98 husaberg.
but im not sure if there are any differences in the flywheels .
you would be alot better off getting your original cdi working with correct stator though
cheers kris
i actually tried this combination a few years ago with the same result ( major kick back ), it happened even if you kicked it through very slowly .
if i remember right the problem is that you will get 2 sparks per revolution and this is why you get kick back.
about using the 96 cdi ? im not sure if this has been done before , but there is an older ktm like the 95 620 wich has the same stator as 99-03 husabergs ( bolted in the casing ) but it is wound to mk1 husaberg specs 90-98 and also uses the same tm 14 cdi as the 90-98 husaberg.
but im not sure if there are any differences in the flywheels .
you would be alot better off getting your original cdi working with correct stator though
cheers kris
Damn That sucks more money to dump into this bike. question will a black box cdi work from a 99 and up fe 470, 650, or other cc's or does it have to be 501? does it matter if its of an e-start or not bike? are the stators all the same after 99 models in regards to different size motors?
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Hi
The stator is the same for all the years (99-03) and all the CC's.
The black box it's not the same for all the years and all the CC's and it's also different between the electric start and just the kick ones, but that e-start is not a big deal. You can also change some of the CDI's between them in different years and some different CC's.
But don't you have the original one from your bike ?? (99-FE501)
:cheers:
ZAGA
The stator is the same for all the years (99-03) and all the CC's.
The black box it's not the same for all the years and all the CC's and it's also different between the electric start and just the kick ones, but that e-start is not a big deal. You can also change some of the CDI's between them in different years and some different CC's.
But don't you have the original one from your bike ?? (99-FE501)
:cheers:
ZAGA
I do have my original coil i just don't know where it is right now it must be in one of my parts bins. i did however find a Black box SEM coil that i forgot i purchased, and after alot of archive searching i found i bought it off a running bike the ebay ID title said "01 husaberg fx650 fx 650 550 fc fe CDI COIL" would this work correctly on a 501? it was an electric start so there are two extra wires coming off of it, do these need to be hooked up a specific way to work on a non E-start bike?
yes this cdi will get your bike running .
i know of a guy that has a husaberg 650 that runs a 501 cdi no problem ! so you should be fine .
about the extra wires 1 grey 1 white these are to change the cdi map from hi to low , tape the ends of these wires up and connect the wires you need , this will leave you on the high map .
i run my motox bike this way and its great .
cheers kris
i know of a guy that has a husaberg 650 that runs a 501 cdi no problem ! so you should be fine .
about the extra wires 1 grey 1 white these are to change the cdi map from hi to low , tape the ends of these wires up and connect the wires you need , this will leave you on the high map .
i run my motox bike this way and its great .
cheers kris
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Hi
As Kris said that CDI will get your bike running (if it's good) and it will be safe because probably it will have less advance than your original one.
Just to be safe, could you tell me the numbers that are written on it ?
About those extra wires, you don't have e-start so the white one is no good for you, the grey one you can use it if you want to change map advance. To use that you can get the original switch or you can use a simple switch like those of the kill switch (on/0ff) but one that has 2 stable positions, not the one that you just press (did you got me ?), on that switch you connect one wire to the grey and the other to earth, and you have one HI/LOW switch.
If you still want to run your original CDI send me a email.
Good luck
:cheers:
ZAGA
As Kris said that CDI will get your bike running (if it's good) and it will be safe because probably it will have less advance than your original one.
Just to be safe, could you tell me the numbers that are written on it ?
About those extra wires, you don't have e-start so the white one is no good for you, the grey one you can use it if you want to change map advance. To use that you can get the original switch or you can use a simple switch like those of the kill switch (on/0ff) but one that has 2 stable positions, not the one that you just press (did you got me ?), on that switch you connect one wire to the grey and the other to earth, and you have one HI/LOW switch.
If you still want to run your original CDI send me a email.
Good luck
:cheers:
ZAGA
Thanks guys, i will try this cdi out asap and let you know how it goes. ill tape up the white and grey wire separately for now for testing.
Here's the numbers on the newer cdi:
ICU10
855 191 07
25025401
Here's the numbers on the newer cdi:
ICU10
855 191 07
25025401
Alright guys lets try this again. i swear i hate this bike with such a passion i fear if i drink enough at my next Bon-fire i will push it straight into the fire, i really want to ride this thing though and that's whats killing me.
i hooked up the MKI stator / Red CDI to my 99 fe501 even though i know that's not the right setup for my bike and its causing Kick backs while kicking, but it does spark! so next i hook up my Rewound MKII stator that goes into the stator cover and is sending the correct amount of ohms on the meter to the bike and i hook up my original black CDI and nothing no spark then i try my other black cdi from a 01 650 and nothing no spark. both of my black CDI have been confirmed to be in good working condition sparks tested mine 3 years ago when i sent him my stator and the 650 one came off a running bike. SO why do i get MKI to spark but not MKII?
i hooked up the MKI stator / Red CDI to my 99 fe501 even though i know that's not the right setup for my bike and its causing Kick backs while kicking, but it does spark! so next i hook up my Rewound MKII stator that goes into the stator cover and is sending the correct amount of ohms on the meter to the bike and i hook up my original black CDI and nothing no spark then i try my other black cdi from a 01 650 and nothing no spark. both of my black CDI have been confirmed to be in good working condition sparks tested mine 3 years ago when i sent him my stator and the 650 one came off a running bike. SO why do i get MKI to spark but not MKII?
I'm in the same boat it seems.
I bough a 99 FE501 recently.
Previous owner said he had the stator rebuilt from sparks which I confirmed.
He reassembled it with the new stator and now it won't start.
After cleaning the carb, checking valve clearances all the basics etc I can't get it to fire.
Most I get is backfires rarely and one good kickback.
What timing mark are you using? I set TDC with a dial indicator and set the timing to the one on the right. I am getting spark, the bike has no kill switch hooked up.
I have the black CDI.
I'm sitting here scratching my head. I've been at it for 2 days now.
I bough a 99 FE501 recently.
Previous owner said he had the stator rebuilt from sparks which I confirmed.
He reassembled it with the new stator and now it won't start.
After cleaning the carb, checking valve clearances all the basics etc I can't get it to fire.
Most I get is backfires rarely and one good kickback.
What timing mark are you using? I set TDC with a dial indicator and set the timing to the one on the right. I am getting spark, the bike has no kill switch hooked up.
I have the black CDI.
I'm sitting here scratching my head. I've been at it for 2 days now.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
you need the timing mark to be 1mm to the left of centre.
you need a reconditioned carb
when you set the tappets right you can 'morse code' and be heard at max about 3m away. any louder and they're loose and any quieter and they are too tight!
put the plug in the gas flame on the cooker till you hear a rustling as the flame fires up the plug and cleans the tip.
husabergs won't start on the choke, you have to get them a little rich and then turn it off.
the idle has to be set higher than you think!
tow start it behind a car using a tow rope to the footrest and diagonally towards the back corner of the car.
that is all!
regards
Taffy
you need a reconditioned carb
when you set the tappets right you can 'morse code' and be heard at max about 3m away. any louder and they're loose and any quieter and they are too tight!
put the plug in the gas flame on the cooker till you hear a rustling as the flame fires up the plug and cleans the tip.
husabergs won't start on the choke, you have to get them a little rich and then turn it off.
the idle has to be set higher than you think!
tow start it behind a car using a tow rope to the footrest and diagonally towards the back corner of the car.
that is all!
regards
Taffy
Taffy,
On e start bikes, you're saying put stator mark 1mm to the left of the right mark on the rotor or the left mark?
Like this:
I.I.....I
Or this:
I.....I.I
Thanks for the reply.
On e start bikes, you're saying put stator mark 1mm to the left of the right mark on the rotor or the left mark?
Like this:
I.I.....I
Or this:
I.....I.I
Thanks for the reply.
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Hi
First you need to make a new mark on the flywheel with the "real TDC".
Welcome to husaberg world
Find real TDC and draw a line vertical aligned with the screw hole of the cover, then you put the line of the stator 1mm to the left of that one. Or better use a strobe light to fine tune the timing.
I had some pict on my gallery but it's down for the moment.
Cheers
ZAGA
First you need to make a new mark on the flywheel with the "real TDC".
Welcome to husaberg world
Find real TDC and draw a line vertical aligned with the screw hole of the cover, then you put the line of the stator 1mm to the left of that one. Or better use a strobe light to fine tune the timing.
I had some pict on my gallery but it's down for the moment.
Cheers
ZAGA
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