Idle screw does not work

as we have no idea of your technical background first question is are you sure your turning the right screw?

Hi, first post on this forum, I've recently bought a used 2010 FE390.

Like the OP, turning my idle adjuster screw either way does not affect the idle speed at all? It did when I bought it a few weeks ago but I went to adjust it last Sunday and nothing happens?

Before anyone questions my mechanical ability or sanity, I do know what I'm doing. Anyone experience this or have an answer? The idle speed was fine when I last rode the bike, it starts fine and revs quite high when the cold start is pulled out but does on a closed throttle wehn the cold start is pushed back in - it's as if something has moved or become disengaged.

All help / advice appreciated. 8)

First you have to turn it a bit to take up the slack in the cable.
Then it sometimes takes a full turn to do anything.

Does it just turn with no resistance?

Rotating the adjuster feels no different to when it worked. It also doesn't just keep turning, there comes a point when it stops turning.

I'm not familiar with the throttle body and am unable to remove the tank until Sunday, am hoping that someone with a bit of experience / knowledge of this part can offer some advice.

Don't gess

Just open the thing and check it, to see whats wrong !

:cheers:
ZAGA

zaga said:

Don't gess

Just open the thing and check it, to see whats wrong !

:cheers:
ZAGA

Click to expand...

Not guessing, read my post & you'll realise that I'm unable to remove the tank until the weekend...... Until I do so, I can't access the throttle body.......

if i'm rembering right doesn't the fi idle screw work in reverse to what you'd expect.

have you turned it all the way low instead of increasing it?

i know i always turned it the wrong way first when ever i went to adjust it and had to listen to the revs to tell me which way i was going as the actual knob is so hard to see.

Correct, you turn it anti-clockwise to increase idle speed. I only realised this after unscrewing the cold start mechanism from the throttle body and realising it's some sort of air bleed screw.

Removing the tank was easy enough as was replacing it. The only fifficult bit was re-connecting the quick fuel disconnect, the fuel line could be a little longer and if they're not lined up accurately, they don't go together. Bike now idles fine, all tank bolts are lubed & won't cause problems in the future. Will be fitting a rad fan kit, rad braces and an axle puller tomorrow. Was going to drill the rear plastics and bolts on a Kriega US5 but realised that my Giant Loop Buckin Roll fits really well across the front of the seat and down the sides of the rad shrouds.