Thanks Rainerio. I actually live in Newman, and Aptos during the work week, so M&sons is closest. Any idea what they charge/hr?
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Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
In that case I think I just tightened the h--l out of it lol! Thanks [emoji79]
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Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Lol. The workshop manual is on this site may be useful I'm on a stupid phruitphone so someone else can post a link [emoji12]
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I can't even use that excuse either, I have a copy of the manual right here ha-ha!
Ok, I got the flywheel off. Now I'm stuck on one of the case bolts... the one right between the starter mount. My 3/8" drive socket and combo wrench are both too big to fit in that tight location. So let me guess, I need a 1/4" drive socket I don't have for that one, right?
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Ok, I got the flywheel off. Now I'm stuck on one of the case bolts... the one right between the starter mount. My 3/8" drive socket and combo wrench are both too big to fit in that tight location. So let me guess, I need a 1/4" drive socket I don't have for that one, right?
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Gee thanks for the vote of confidence. Now I see what all the controversy surrounding you is about.
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I finally got some time to work on this thing again. The cases are apart, and as I suspected the big end con rod bearing is gone. As the engine made its final revolutions the con rod gouged-out a swath in the crank cases
This piece fractured from the right half
...and the left half also...
There are flakes of aluminum everywhere of course
...what a mess.
I would imagine this engine should get a 100% rebuild. What are the chances any of the bearings didn't suffer in the process?
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This piece fractured from the right half
...and the left half also...
There are flakes of aluminum everywhere of course
...what a mess.
I would imagine this engine should get a 100% rebuild. What are the chances any of the bearings didn't suffer in the process?
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The crank shaft is out. How does the piston look?
And the cylinder
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And the cylinder
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And I thought it was a seized piston for sure.... Shows how much I know. But it did act EXACTLY like (many years ago) a 1974 CZ 400 I used to have when it seized the piston. No knocking/clunking-type sounds like one might expect to hear a rod hitting the crankcase. Just instantaneous power loss, a few more spins followed by instant stop/ locked-up rear wheel. Luckily I was quick on pulling in the clutch or ([emoji88]).
Next, the crank will go to Moore and Sons in beautiful Santa Cruz California. Well, after I call them and get an idea as to cost anyway.
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Next, the crank will go to Moore and Sons in beautiful Santa Cruz California. Well, after I call them and get an idea as to cost anyway.
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So far I'm not feeling the love from Moore and Sons. Made 3 calls, getting told the mechanic would call me back. Still waiting for that call [emoji849]
Maybe I shouldn't have said I have a Husaberg I need work done to?
I'm starting to think I might be better off parting this bike out than to fix it. It's got some very desirable stuff on it
I would rather fix it than part it, but the crankshaft isn't going to miraculously fix itself, and I don't have those kinds of tools [emoji848]
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Maybe I shouldn't have said I have a Husaberg I need work done to?
I'm starting to think I might be better off parting this bike out than to fix it. It's got some very desirable stuff on it
I would rather fix it than part it, but the crankshaft isn't going to miraculously fix itself, and I don't have those kinds of tools [emoji848]
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Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
for phuq sake! you'd think there were no crank press people in the states. there's one in each of the 5 villages around me. THAT's how many there are! now they may be rarer but you need to start LOOKING. you don't have to be posh, or flash - just good.
anyone who claims to do any singles, any singles at all will have to have split cranks done.
that is ANYONE ok?
SO GET OUT THERE AND GET IT DONE! don't come on here to talk about how you guessed everything wrong and how you're going to break it coz even if no one else gives you grief - I WILL!!!!
we save Husabergs here, we talk about how to keep them going. we are not surrender monkeys!!!!
your clutch and gearbox will be OK. change your mains as a precaution, cam chain, re-nikasil the liner. piston is shagged, balancer will be OK. fit a SRK and stronger ADC spring while you're there. always use a new headgasket. always check the valves: inlets tulip and any of them might not be seating correctly. so when you give the crank over - give the head and valves over as well.
try and go to DVSK. as for the crank, you'll need a new rod kit as you guessed I trust.
anyone in the motor recon trade can press a crank. it's their job! maximum throw-out will be .002" on a dial gauge as these are rollers you're putting in.
if you call me and send photos and so on and so forth tell me what is knackered etc. i will help you. tell you what to look for.
as for that lump of alloy, don't worry about it, just make sure that nothing else can fall off.
regards
Taffy
anyone who claims to do any singles, any singles at all will have to have split cranks done.
that is ANYONE ok?
SO GET OUT THERE AND GET IT DONE! don't come on here to talk about how you guessed everything wrong and how you're going to break it coz even if no one else gives you grief - I WILL!!!!
we save Husabergs here, we talk about how to keep them going. we are not surrender monkeys!!!!
your clutch and gearbox will be OK. change your mains as a precaution, cam chain, re-nikasil the liner. piston is shagged, balancer will be OK. fit a SRK and stronger ADC spring while you're there. always use a new headgasket. always check the valves: inlets tulip and any of them might not be seating correctly. so when you give the crank over - give the head and valves over as well.
try and go to DVSK. as for the crank, you'll need a new rod kit as you guessed I trust.
anyone in the motor recon trade can press a crank. it's their job! maximum throw-out will be .002" on a dial gauge as these are rollers you're putting in.
if you call me and send photos and so on and so forth tell me what is knackered etc. i will help you. tell you what to look for.
as for that lump of alloy, don't worry about it, just make sure that nothing else can fall off.
regards
Taffy
Joined Aug 2016
166 Posts | 85+
NSW Australia
Please bare with it and don't part it out! It's a gorgeous bike and what a waste to split it all up. All the help/advice is available here and the necessary parts for that matter. Surely someone else over there can repair that crank, bike looks in great nick so it's worth fixing! You'll be like a dog with 2 dicks when your caning that thing around once sorted!
Last edited:
Thank you Taffy for both the re-build advice and the "pep" talk, I can appreciate where you are coming from. You have a vested interest in keeping blown-up Husabergs running. I don't. My policy regarding these types of things follows that of a good friend of mine that I will quote here : "Never get attached to metal".
So with that said, this is all about the financial feasibility of fixing (or not) this blown motor. I got taken when I bought this bike, $4500 USD and it lasted about 25 miles before it seized. The guy I bought it from has no honor, so now I'm stuck with a boat anchor. I have no intention on throwing good money after bad. The bike will be sold no matter if fixed or not.
Here is my question:
So if your shop was down the street, how much would you charge me for the work plus parts you outlined, with me doing the re-assembly? The answer to this question will be the best advice anybody could give me because it will set me in the right direction of to fix or not to fix.
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BTW, Munn Racing lists a whole 650 rod and crankshaft assembly for $465 after a 25% discount. The con rod replacement kit is $279. Is it worth the $186 to just buy the whole crank?
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Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
YES
Buy 2! Not because you'll need it but because that's cheap!P.s., that is probably one of the flyest Husabergs I've ever seen, ever. It's perfect.. I totally understand wanting out / wanting to recoup, but you might not have thw chance to own and ride a bike like that ever again.
Hi Damo, appreciate the encouragement. I'm like a dog with 2 dicks when I'm caning around my other bike
2014 BMW s1000r. 160 hp @ 11k rpm, 83 lbs-ft at 9300 rpm. Very wide torque curve, it probably surpasses the 650's max of 48.68 lbs-ft @ 6100 rpm somewhere around 3500-4K rpm. 12k rpm limit, between 4 and 12k is "Scotty, give me warp 9 NOW!"
Tied with 7 other bikes for 3rd fastest accelerating production motorcycle (0-60 mph in 2.6 seconds) ever. 1/4 mile in 9.94 seconds @ 141.74 mph. It luckily has Automatic Stability Control to keep both tires on the ground and Launch Mode for that perfect take-off. This bike is all about throttle control [emoji83]
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