I think my 650 seized up

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M

Md4stone

Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
100
Location
California USA
I just bought this bike and I noticed it had a lot of piston noise at idle along with a lot of smoke when the throttle was gunned. But after a 30 minute ride it all of a sudden had a drop in power and followed by seizure. It won't crank over now at all, the motor is frozen.
I was just wondering which of all those special tools shown in the manual I will need to split the cases on this puppy. Any suggestions and short cuts would be highly appreciated.
So far, I have gotten to removing the valve covers to expose the timing chain. Of course the master link isn't in view, so I bought a chain breaker online.
I think my main concerns regarding special tools is the case splitter tool. Any way around that? Also, do I really need the flywheel puller, or will a more conventional puller work?
All help will be greatly appreciated!


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Last edited:
The only special tool you need is the flywheel puller, everything else can be improvised pretty easily.

Good luck with what you find.

Carl.
 
Md4stone said:
Thanks Carl, I got one so I could continue.

Well, it isn't the piston seized [emoji849]

I removed the engine from the frame, pulled the valve cover, cam chain, and cylinder head. The piston was about 20 mm from TDC and no evidence of cylinder wall damage. But the kickstart lever was still frozen, so I pulled the flywheel cover and went to remove the flywheel nut. That got movement (why didn't I try this first I ask myself/smack myself up the side of my head???)

I guess I was so sure by the way the engine had ceased running when it did, and the way it did I was just POSITIVE about what the problem must be.

So now (without taking anything else apart) it will turn over easily about 1 1/2 revolutions before some type of resistance is felt. Then if I back-up a bit, I can continue rotating the crankshaft using a wrench on the flywheel nut. So with no cylinder head, no cam chain, or stator to offer resistance "something" is still making it hard (at certain points anyway) to spin freely.

As it might be guessed by now, mechanical endeavors aren't my strong suit. Anybody have any insight into what might be going on with this confounded contraption? All help will be greatly appreciated.


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I had 3rd gear break and take a few more with it on my 05 650.
Could be a broken gear?
 
Hmmm. Is it in gear while you are turning it over? If not, I wouldn't suspect the tranny. I would be looking at the timing gears on the clutch side. Pull off the side cover and see what lies in there. Perhaps you have a broken gear.
 
It's in neutral. I guess I might as well get further into it, I'm going to need access to the lower cam chain sprocket no matter what else.

I agree that the tranny seems unlikely, thanks for any and all help. All ideas gladly accepted...


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it won't be gearbox.

my money is on a chunked tooth in the primary drive locking the engine as you turn it either way. doesn't matter anyway/either way. it's just a guessing game.



flywheel tool is all you need. you can get all the gear nuts undone using an airgun. when you put it back together you'll have to find a way of locking the clutch drum. I am experienced at turning the air gun down a little and getting it about right.

to get the cases apart:
copper hammer at the BACK OF THE ENGINE. slap outwards between the two shoulders near the swing arm holes.

I don't consider these engines anything you can do though fella, sorry!

LEAVE THE RACES TO THE ACES (LET A PRO HAVE IT)

regards

Taffy
 
i would take the clutch plates out (easy) then if it still has resistance its not the gearbox

then look at the clutch gear estart gears kickstart gears counterbalancer and cam shaft drive gears

these engines are different in layout but really not difficult to work on.
 
Thanks guys, since this is the first time I've taken one of these engines apart, I'm really appreciating the wisdom of experience [emoji106]

The left side outer case is off. I'm not seeing anything out of sorts with any of the gears or the timing sprocket, but is this amount of grunge/ metal shavings normal?
91c28fc785f5a258fbeb26837a3585d9.jpg
336e4517540d11fe294307858e560172.jpg


I will take apart the clutch next to disengage the trans, thanks bush mechanic!


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Here is a shot of the gears
97a32aa76a418544259bc04c91215320.jpg


And the cylinder and piston
154608c834127e372b1408d636de9414.jpg

Cylinder walls look good


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I've found where the problem lies: in the photos below, with the piston at BDC, I can turn the crankshaft from here to here with zero piston movement. That must make it either the top or bottom con rod bearing disintegrated. By the degree more than likely the bottom [emoji21]
7985bf36fa46170f2e03b647013d1e06.jpg
22e38b1b6c1e85b0fb0d69276dd9e845.jpg

Looks like this is going to go what I probably can't do myself, take apart the crankshaft...


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Bummer for you hope it doesn't cost You much. But it's informative/interesting for Me. Again hope it's a easy fix.
 
Last edited:
If you get a flywheel puller you can remove the rhs crank case without removing any of the stuff in the lhs. Usually if the big end has gone the bore is stuffed. So you might be "lucky"


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bushmechanic said:
If you get a flywheel puller you can remove the rhs crank case without removing any of the stuff in the lhs. Usually if the big end has gone the bore is stuffed. So you might be "lucky"


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What do you mean by the bore is stuffed?

The cylinder doesn't look too bad to me, but I haven't looked at these things much. There is some sign of cylinder wear on the thrust faces and the rest still shows hone marks. I can feel no gouges anywhere.


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The peices of hard metal from a big end failure usually score the bore quite badly.


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i get the feeling it is something to do with the balancer teeth - where they mesh into the intermediate gear.

anyway, you'll soon see!

Taffy
 
I can't get the flywheel nut loose so I think an impact wrench is in order, the one I don't have [emoji849]

Can anyone recommend a machine shop in the San Francisco CA area familiar with husaberg cranks, and hopefully not too expensive? I don't think I want to throw too much more good money after bad on this bike. I need to balance how much it will cost to fix it against how much I will lose by selling it in this (blown motor) condition.


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