Husaberg El start failure??

The problem is that the starter cannont go fast enought to start the bike

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hmmm, where have i heard that before? (could it be a honda starter?) :-?

Finn

you need a later 2004+ auto decomp fitting to your camshaft.

regards

Taffy

looked at what i sold you. I would think that the ADC spring is either loose or weak?

tappets, an iridium plug, auto decomp double checked. suggest to do the tappets you change your style next time and undo the little decomp shaft spring so that you know everything is free.

regards

Taffy

yes mate!

regards

Taffy

try retarding the ignition timing. when you get it started, you need to put a timing light on the ignition. timing, with my re-marked flywheel is 6d BTDC.

regards

Taffy

My thorts would be that you have moved the battery further away from starter so you need alot bigger section of cable to transfer same amount of current. make sure you also have a big earth cable from battery to engine and not rely on the frame as an earth.

How about making sure the battery is fully charged?

The problem is that the starter cannont go fast enought to start the bike

hmmm, where have i heard that before? (could it be a honda starter?)

Click to expand...

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8238&hilit=+honda

ned37 said:

The problem is that the starter cannont go fast enought to start the bike

hmmm, where have i heard that before? (could it be a honda starter?)

Click to expand...

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8238&hilit=+honda

Click to expand...

Good job Ned, I went looking for the turd picture the other day in your gallery but couldn't find it to offer as a possible cure for this particular problem. Glad to see you still know your sh*t!!!!! :bounce3:

I also have a 02 650, when i have a fully charged battery, the electric starter will fire her up cold or hot straight away, if i kick start her, i need to ponse about with the choke on for three kicks, then choke off and fouth kick she roughs to life. BUT... after two to three days the battery will die, even if shes being ridden for those two-three days... the battery might take a charge after the first drain from a charger but then the bat wont even receive the charge from this mint charger ive got just for this job on the 3rd.... ive changed batterys four times now in total and am getting sick of it... ive left her with a dead battery in her for the past 6 months just coz i wasnt bothered, but now ive had to because of taking her for MOT... must say its nice to have a workable e-starter and not one just for show if you know what i mean! let us know what was up when you find it, and hang on in there, your not the only one!

oh yea, what about this earthing the battery out to the engine business in-stead of the frame? is it worth doing? my earth from the bat goes to a painted part on the frame, i thing the bolt of the upper chain roller... then theres a brown wire connected to the minuse on the bat along with the earth wire, very strange! did they forget something when they designed the wiring

im seriously thinking about making a cut of switch to the battery, so when ever im not riding her i just simply disconnect the bat... so she doesnt drain and charge her if needed... sounds abit like ive got a remotcontroled motorbike :angry:

You will want to ground (earth) the battery to the engine. That's how it should have been installed originally.

Frame earth theory...... There are two side to the electricity story....... + and -. Basically you must have as much - as you do +. Now if your + wire goes directly to the starter and your - wire goes to the frame then the - has to travel through the frame and dirty connection points in order to then try and equal the +. situation gets worse with time as connections get dirtier.
Now the starter. Electric motors consume watts. Watts are made up of voltsxamps. So if you are loosing a few volts at each connection then the starter will want more amps to make up the deficit. Problem being that amps create heating..... more amps = more heat . But the heat is what causes more resistance in the cable, thus requiring more amps to push the same watts through the bit of wire. Larger cross section (mm2 or gauge) of cable has less resistance, thus more amps= bigger cable. So in order to get as much of the very limited power held by the battery to the consumer (starter) you need as big a section and shortest length of cable as possable. BUT....... any cable used in a vibrating enviroment must be fine stranded flex cable. (and if its tinned then it will repell corrosion alot better)
example of watts. 1hp electric motor = 746watts. 746w/ 12v = 62.1amps. or if you measure 11v @ starter then 746/ 11 =67.8amps or if battery fully charged then 746/13=57.3amps. If you check the number of amps in your battery then you will start to realise why you need good clean solid conections. I think therefore i was.

a lot of people have over advanced ignitions. you can tell these ones because the engine doesn't want to turn so turns slowly and then sometimes will whip into a speed frenzy followed by stopping again for no apparent reason.

regards

Taffy

so basicly your saying, make sure your earth and main wires from battery to starter are all thick good quality cables and also move the main earth from the battery to frame to a better battery to engine earth, whilest making sure to not make it to long... does it matter where on the engine i earth it out to? what if i leave the bat to frame earth and give it a second one aswell going to the engine?

my problem is not a weak starter, just i loose life of the battery after a few days.... what do you lot think of a manual battery cut off switch???

YellowDevils=G3 said:

so basicly your saying, make sure your earth and main wires from battery to starter are all thick good quality cables and also move the main earth from the battery to frame to a better battery to engine earth, whilest making sure to not make it to long... does it matter where on the engine i earth it out to? what if i leave the bat to frame earth and give it a second one aswell going to the engine?

my problem is not a weak starter, just i loose life of the battery after a few days.... what do you lot think of a manual battery cut off switch???

Click to expand...

Here is a picture of the earth mounting point.

http://www.husaberg.org/gallery/v/Membe ... 1.jpg.html

As far as the cut off switch goes, if you have a draw on the battery, you need to locate and repair it. It could be as simple as dirt on the battery bleeding voltage between the 2 posts. It could be corrosion in an ignition switch or even just a shagged battery itself. You need to perform a draw test on the battery to determine if and what size draw you have.