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Husaberg 450fe 2003 wont rev

M

mansa

Joined Mar 2012
13 Posts | 0+
Hi mi husaberg 450 is not reving .

carb cam valvs and intake are ok

the stator is new and al the values ar spot on when messuerd.

so stator to is ok

timing is spot on when its on idel

this is how it sounds when i try to give it gas (rev it)

the sparkplug is perfeckt colur when iv had the bike standing on idle for a litle time but as soon as i try to rev it the sparkplug gets black and bad .. so it is getting fuel.

and the bike is very easy to start and runs whitout choke

watch the link and pleas give some advise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-z5ukx8K3E
 
first thing i would do is pull the carb apart, check to see if the needle clip is still in place and while you are there, look over the slide. also see if the main jet fell out.
 
hello

carburetor has been disassembled and all parts cleaned in an ultrasonic washer.

all parts in the carburetor is good and right.

the bike has previously worked with the stator.

stator is an aftermarket one.

have somewhere read that these can burn the cdi

so the carburetor is unfortunately not the problem.

have tested it whit shokes in and out but still the same and
I have tried to spray starter gas into the carb but still no difference
this shuld have given it a litle more rpm if it was a carb issu or am i wrong.

but thanx for the replye
 
evidently you have the odd year. what ignition was original? sem? did you change it to an electrex? if so, then you have probably just answered your own question? what carb does it have?
 
i dont have the name of the carb but its the one whitout electric pluged in to it,

the ignition system is SEM and cdi is stil oroiginal SEM the stator is a replacment for the sem so it bolts on whitout mods .

the bike has worked perfect whit this setupp . so somthing has changed inside some part probobly the cdi but im open for advise on other things that can do this to the bike.

carb name Keihin
 
did you check it with a timing light to know timing is correct at idle? if so when you did that did you try to rev it then and watch the marks advance, the cdi box is the only thing that advances the timing, its at idle or it its advanced thats all you get. with a timing light you will see the mark then you wont if you rev it when you look through your little hole thing on the stator cover, i dont have a hole on my stator so its different for me and i dont know you exact timing procedure. i do agree with you it doesnt sound like its advancing or like ned said your needle isnt attached to the slide anymore but i think it would go very lean and stall, definatly wouldnt make your plug black at this point....i would watch the marks with timing light to see if it doesnt advance, if it doesnt then its the cdi and if so then you may want to think about the correct stator so it doesnt ruin your replacment cdi coil. i have had carb issues and have had base timing issues but with either one the timing still advanced properly when watching with a light. this problem started all of a sudden? it wasnt just all taken apart or something right?
 
yeas i have cheked the timing whith a timing light and in idle it is wher it suld and when i rev it te timing advances but sems tu be jumping al over the place so i think its a cdi issue .

the bike have bin apart but we have cheked al moving parts and marks are spot on when its in tdc so this is the reason i think its electrical.. iv tryed disconnecting al cables exept the ones you need to run the cdi . still no god
 
I think that it is the stator not producing enough ooomph!

check the numbers

red to black at least 2750 - anything less and your in the amber zone where the bike does just like yours is.

regards

Taffy
 
mansa said:
yeas i have cheked the timing whith a timing light and in idle it is wher it suld and when i rev it te timing advances but sems tu be jumping al over the place so i think its a cdi issue .

the bike have bin apart but we have cheked al moving parts and marks are spot on when its in tdc so this is the reason i think its electrical.. iv tryed disconnecting al cables exept the ones you need to run the cdi . still no god
Click to expand...


Hi Mansa,

Very unlikely to be the cdi, these were the analog type, they either work or they don't, I've never seen anything in-between.

What make of aftermarket stator do you have?.

Regards

Sparks.
 
ned37 said:
evidently you have the odd year. what ignition was original? sem? did you change it to an electrex? if so, then you have probably just answered your own question? what carb does it have?
Click to expand...

what about electrex stators, do them really burn CDI?
 
taking it back a step

you dont say if you've tried it with a new spark plug - could be a fault within the plug your using.

also have you considered the ht lead.

rev it in the dark and see it you can see the HT lead shorting out anywhere.

seen both these stop bikes from reving out.
 
hi i have tested 2 brand new sparkpluggs and all the 5 old ones that iv considerd to be broken due to the fact that iv soaked them several times .. but non of the makes the bike rev more or less.


iv tryed to messuer the voltage on the startor while its running and on idle it wher abou 20volts and when i rev it advances up to over 40 volt ant stays table att that voltage when i rev it as high as it will go..

iv messuerd that betwen the red and black cable from the stator

i tryed cheking the spark advancment and when its on idel i can barly see the mark on the flywheel and when i rev it moves as it shuld.

i have also seen that when it starts to backfier and yust below that rev the spark light starts to flash less (slower/misses) this must mean that the spark aint going down to the sparkplug
 
forgot to mentin that it gets wors in i have the igniton att low (on high ignition it wont bakfier as bad but on low it gets bad)
 
okey now i think iv found the problem.

i cheked al cables agin and pulld the spark cable out of the cdi ant found a broken conection screw .... :cuss: so i dont think it is getting mutch contact and when spark power is to high the spark will take the easyest way to ground ant hat is probobly bak in to the coil and not down the cable to the spark..

i asume the litle pin is not replacable and the cdi is broken for good or is ther any fix .

i tried a nother connection but the i got better spark on kick but when i idle it and tryed to rev it wuld rev even lower than befor and more bakfiering problems to ..

I loved the bike when i first bought it but now i realy hate it....... :angry:
 
Hi
You must try to open the CDI that should be the difficult part, fix it should be the easy part. Taff will fix you're CDI but it will cost you I suspect.

Also the values that you are getting from RED wire voltage for me are very low, when you rev it, I think you should get around 300 V AC.

Finally the HI LOW switch will only make a difference at high rpm not low.

Good luck
:cheers:
ZAGA
 
zaga said:
Hi
You must try to open the CDI that should be the difficult part, fix it should be the easy part. Taff will fix you're CDI but it will cost you I suspect.

Also the values that you are getting from RED wire voltage for me are very low, when you rev it, I think you should get around 300 V AC.

Finally the HI LOW switch will only make a difference at high rpm not low.

Good luck
:cheers:
ZAGA
Click to expand...

the high and low does make a diferens att the top rpm i am getting it to now and thats a fact on my bike so if it shul not then something more is broken in the ignition
 
mansa said:
i cheked al cables agin and pulld the spark cable out of the cdi ant found a broken conection screw .... so i dont think it is getting mutch contact and when spark power is to high the spark will take the easyest way to ground ant hat is probobly bak in to the coil and not down the cable to the spark..
Click to expand...

mansa said:
I loved the bike when i first bought it but now i realy hate it.......
Click to expand...

its just a coil? it could be worse, the sprague or cam bearing could have broken and the engine exploded.........you could have another problem but you have to start by replacing the obviously broken part, used replacment ones usually arent expensive and since they rarely fail i wouldnt feel bad about getting a used part.... :cheers:
 
i drilled out the connection screw and replaced it whit one sliverplated one and now and siliconed upp the hole i drilled in the back and tryed no spark then i put on an carbon type ignition cable yust to try and pulled the spark cap off and spark will easely jump more then 10 mm when i kick it so the coils sems to work now

(i dont even have to kick hard for it to jump aprox 15-20 mm )

i will asemble it later and try to start it upp and if it works
 
mansa said:
i assume the little pin is not replacable and the cdi is broken for good or is there a fix?
Click to expand...

I had this happen before and sent it off. the repair was very cheap so I presume he just bonded it back in somehow?

anyway, if you want it repaired or if you find another one and want a home for that one please let me know?

regards

Taffy
 

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