Hi bob,
I've been running the Evans like Berger for a while now, and have had no further boil over problems.
However, as Ken states, it's not quite as good at heat transfer as regular coolant. And it will not boil over until 400 degree's @ 7 psi @ sea level. In fact Evans
www.evanscooling.com reccomends that you run zero pressure in your cooling system with their coolant. I'm still running the stock cap though.
So what this means is that you have to use your head a bit, in that if you get into a tight situation and are slipping the clutch and not moving much your bike is not going to boil over but will get very hot. So, you will have to just use some common sense in those situations. I E if you can't get out and feel your bike getting hot, turn it off and let it cool for a while.
The upside to this is that you will keep all your coolant where it belongs and once past the tight spot, your bike will cool right down again b/c all the coolant is there.
I used to have a problem now and then where the bike would boil over, then I would wonder how much coolant was left in the motor. And I would end up adding some water from my camel back to top it off, further lowering the boiling point of the regular anti freeze. As far as engine Ice goes, I think it's more prone to boil over's than with just regular anti freeze. This assertation is backed up by a few trail side experiences, IE everyone running engine ice was boiling over,but others just using reuglar prestone were fine.
In the Dirt Rider article they made an incorrect assesment when testing the Evans coolant which is the same thing as the Ty Davis waterless coolant, literally. DR found that the raditor temps measured with a surface spot radiometer was lower and concluded that the coolant temps were lower. This IMHO is incorrect, what it actually showed was that the coolant was not transferring it's heat to/through the rad's.
For myself, I don't have a problem with this as I said earlier the coolant remains in the cooling system, and has proven itself to me. And I will continue to run Evans in both my berg's.
Another thing, you don't need to buy the prep fluid as they state on their site. Buy a gallon, drain your system fully by taking the bottom hose off at the water pump, maybe use a little compressed air with a REGULATOR set at 12psi to blow out the fluid sitting in the water pump housing. Reconnect the hose, fill and bleed the system with Evans NPG-R. Go ride the bike for a day or whatever. Then drain and fill the system again as above with fresh Evans. The first fill will have bonded with the remaining water and will come out with the draining of the system as it will be suspended in the fluid. And wa la, you will be in business. Just be sure to not over fill the system, just a few milimeters above the core tubes is all that is required.
If you want to be really thrifty, you can catch the first fill of evans and remove the water as follows. Place the first fill liquid in a pan on a hot plate OUTSIDE with a Candy thermometer in it. Bring the fluid up to about 220 degress F or a little hotter. You will see the water begin to boil out of the fluid by the bubbles coming from the bottom of the pan. Once the boiling stops turn off the hot plate and let the liquid cool. Place this liquid in a marked container and you can use this as your flush in subsequent vehicles.
In case your wondering, these were instructiong given to me by the Evans tech I spoke with. He said that this was the most economic since bike rads were so small, in reality you could just flush with NPG-R, and toss it since the amount was so small, and the dehydration of the fluid was an option that would work well.
If you have any questions feel free to ask,
I think I remember you trying engine ice. did it help? what are your thouhgts? I am no where near the point you were but I still do boil over in the tight stuff here in the summer. what about 2twocool? or should I just fit a recovery tank to suck it back when it cools.
