HELP! Strange problem with my FS 650e

WildCard · Feb 10, 2007

Hello everyone, IÃ‚Â´m new here

and I have a problem with my Husaberg FS 650e -04 (whit FP full exhaust system).

It started with that it just died when I was riding. I took it home and cleaned the carburetor a cople of times and measured all electronics, everything looked good but it didnt start. After a while I discovered that that a valve spring was broken and I changed that...now it is running but very uneven especially when idleing. It wants to stop going when I dont have a really high idleing speed and it back fires. I have tryed to adjust the air/fuel mixture screw and even the needle, I have also cleaned the carburettor a cople of times more but it doesent help. I have also changed the TPS (trottle position sensor) and adjusted that according to the book.

Whats wrong with my bike? I want to ride

! Can my carburettor be broken in some way? Is it easy to damage the idleing nozzle in the carburettor (due to to much cleaning) ? The valves are adjusted and should not be the problem.

Many thanks in advance!
/Matthias :wink:

kzoo · Feb 10, 2007

Did you completely dismantle the carb when you cleaned it? i.e. removed the slide etc...

coronaberg · Feb 10, 2007

Did you check the valves to see if one is bent,Could be one is leaking.

Taffy · Feb 11, 2007

i'm with jeff.

you have a bent valve mate!

there are a couple of ways to TRY and tell.

you haven't said which valve went west? an inlet or exhaust? i think it was an inlet.

you can try and dismantle the auto decomps and kick it up to compression. it should be really hard to get over comp. you should be able to stand on the kickstart and hear it hiss as it gradually goes over. to disconnect the kickstart decomp = make the cable loose. to disconnect the manual decomp (if you have it) make the cable loose. the auto decomp can be loosened by turning out the exhaust tappets 1.25 turns and re-locking.

another way to tell is to get the bike to TDC on the compression stroke. both inlets and exhausts should be closed. remove the carb and rubber or the exhaust downpipes. now pour neat paraffin in the port till it is dribbling out. if it gradually leaves the edge over about 1-minute = you have a bent valve.

remember air finds a gap easier than paraffin......

lastly, if you have the head off. put the plug back in and lay the head on the bench. cylinder face up and dead flat. again fill with paraffin. it will dribble down the port of the valve that is bent. use a torch to guess which one!

you should "kiss" a new valve in by hand no problem using the poppet stick and grinding paste. if you changed one spring then you should have replaced it's sister as a precaution!

regards

Taffy

WildCard · Feb 11, 2007

kzoo said:
Did you completely dismantle the carb when you cleaned it? i.e. removed the slide etc...

Yes I did (but not the seeled screws) but I discovered that the throttle slide shim was a little little bit loose, can that be the problem?

coronaberg said:
Did you check the valves to see if one is bent,Could be one is leaking.

Well, It was a really experieced Husaberg mechanic that changed the valve spring he should probably have checked that?!

Taffy said:
i'm with jeff.

you have a bent valve mate!

there are a couple of ways to TRY and tell.

you haven't said which valve went west? an inlet or exhaust? i think it was an inlet.

you can try and dismantle the auto decomps and kick it up to compression. it should be really hard to get over comp. you should be able to stand on the kickstart and hear it hiss as it gradually goes over. to disconnect the kickstart decomp = make the cable loose. to disconnect the manual decomp (if you have it) make the cable loose. the auto decomp can be loosened by turning out the exhaust tappets 1.25 turns and re-locking.

another way to tell is to get the bike to TDC on the compression stroke. both inlets and exhausts should be closed. remove the carb and rubber or the exhaust downpipes. now pour neat paraffin in the port till it is dribbling out. if it gradually leaves the edge over about 1-minute = you have a bent valve.

remember air finds a gap easier than paraffin......

lastly, if you have the head off. put the plug back in and lay the head on the bench. cylinder face up and dead flat. again fill with paraffin. it will dribble down the port of the valve that is bent. use a torch to guess which one!

you should "kiss" a new valve in by hand no problem using the poppet stick and grinding paste. if you changed one spring then you should have replaced it's sister as a precaution!

regards

Taffy

It was an exhaust valve spring that was replaced. Really good tips on how to check if one is leaking! I dont think it is a valve leaking but I must doubble check!

JoeUSA · Feb 11, 2007

Hello Matthias,

I had a valve spring break on my 2000 Husaberg at 347 hours. I replaced all 4 springs, the bent valve and valve guide.

I also have a 04 550 Husaberg with 76 hours on it. There are reports of some 04's and 05's breaking valve springs early in their life. How many hours do you have on yours?

Regards,

Joe

WildCard · Feb 11, 2007

JoeUSA said:
Hello Matthias,

I had a valve spring break on my 2000 Husaberg at 347 hours. I replaced all 4 springs, the bent valve and valve guide.

I also have a 04 550 Husaberg with 76 hours on it. There are reports of some 04's and 05's breaking valve springs early in their life. How many hours do you have on yours?

Regards,

Joe

I have about 65 hours on it. I have heard that it was a bit of a material problem with the valve springs on the -04:s.

Regards,
Matthias

LINEAWEAVER · Feb 11, 2007

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HELP! Strange problem with my FS 650e

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